DANG, Michael!!!! 
@Gordon Nichols posted:"@Stan Galat, whenever you say that, I imagine someone kneeling down and getting tapped on the shoulder with a sword. Probably a Stanistan thing"
Actually, it's not a sword.
It's a Type-4 Connecting Rod.......
You know, a connecting rod would make a really good hilt for a real sword...
And @Michael Pickett that looks fabulous! Nice job!
@DannyP posted:And @Michael Pickett that looks fabulous! Nice job!
Thanks, Danny. I know you're the real pro on this type of thing.
In more Speeduino news, here's a car going for a 500 mph run at Bonneville with fuel controlled by a Speeduino. https://www.facebook.com/11756...tid=vgcPqKBpr7XVjaWG
@Michael Pickett posted:In more Speeduino news, here's a car going for a 500 mph run at Bonneville with fuel controlled by a Speeduino. https://www.facebook.com/11756...tid=vgcPqKBpr7XVjaWG
I heard they are now changing the name to Speed ... We KNOW.
@Michael Pickett posted:I splurged and bought a cheap DYMO label printer that could make shrink wrap labels.
I realize this post is almost a year old, but I looked at it again. I've got a half-dozen little cheapo Brother label makers, and I use them for everything.
They're terrible for wires. I'd love shrinktube labels. Can you please provide a link?
@Stan Galat, here you go.
1/2" heat shrink label tubing:
KCMYTONER Compatible for Dymo 18056 Heat Shrink Tubes 12mm Label Tape for Wires Cables 1/2 Inch x 4.9 ft Used in Rhino Pro 3000, 4200, 5200, 5000, 6000 Industrial Label Maker, Black on Yellow, 2 Pack https://a.co/d/1ZICN1i
1/4" heat shrink label tubing:
Aonomi Compatible Labels Tape Replacement for DYMO 18052 Heat Shrink Tube Compatible with DYMO Industrial Rhino 5200, 4200, 5000, 6000 Label Maker (1/4", Black on Yellow), 3-Pack https://a.co/d/9WWiK8Q
Dymo 160 Label Maker:
DYMO Label Maker LabelManager 160 Portable Label Maker, Easy-to-Use, One-Touch Smart Keys, QWERTY Keyboard, Large Display, for Home & Office Organization, Black https://a.co/d/ipiMYpp
Thanks, Mike!
Wow, this has been a remarkable week of growth for me, here on the forum.
First I learn that some people drill their wing nuts, and now I’m opened to a whole world of shrinkable labels I never knew existed.
Sometimes the breadth of human achievement appears nearly overwhelming.
As I'm sure most folks who've watched my shenanigans over the last 3-4 years know, I'm as much delighted by messing with my car to make it my version of better as I am by driving it (nearly).
In recent Speeduino events, I upgraded to the newest version of the software, rebuilt the idle air control manifold to allow even more air, converted 100% over to Alpha-N (throttle position) control for the individual throttle bodies, and did another retune from scratch to optimise startup, engine idle speed control, air:fuel ratios, tolerance for air conditioning load at idle, and probably most importantly, tweaked the spark advance table for performance.
It's starting perfectly at any temperature (on Maui), running smooth as butter, is much perkier at low RPMs, is at safe air:fuel ratios up to my set redline (6K), and handles the barometric changes smoothly from 0 ft above sea level up to 10,000 ft.
Things I would have done differently from the very beginning:
- Bought smaller ITBs: my individual throttle bodies have a diameter of 45mm. This is too large for fine throttle control on an engine of 1776cc. They work fine, but most of the throttle control happens in the first 40% of throttle. After that it's all just the same as having the throttle pedal fully depressed. Not a big deal and it doesn't affect driving, but I'd pick smaller throats to give a little more sensitivity to the pedal across the range.
- I should have started out with placing the Speeduino ECU in an more easily accessible and waterproof place from the beginning. The first couple of years saw me underneath the car as I evolved the wiring plan. Since I moved the ECU from the back of the firewall into its own box accessible under the rear package tray (along with cleaning up all of the ECU wiring), I've been much happier with getting to things I wanted to change (read: play with). Most folks won't want to play with the configurations as much as I do, but putting the ECU outside of the engine compartment or underneath the car is a very good idea. On my previous cars, I usually put the ECU underneath the passenger seat and mounted it on standoffs above the carpet so downpours couldn't create problems. This is a great place if you're thinking of doing this. I chose to make a small, hinge-lidded, fiberglass box under the package tray because I'm a nut for keeping space available for stuffing things I might need on a drive. I also have a lot of free time in my retirement...
- I would have bought the CB Performance crankshaft position sensor wheel and sensor mount first, rather than building my own. Mine worked, but I bought the CBP package to clean it up. Save your time unless you're hard-headed and cheap (like me).
- I'd have done a better job at planning out the ECU wiring ahead of time so it didn't need to be redone a few years later to clean it up. My first 6 months of use was for spark only. I added in the fueling after that and the wiring wasn't clean enough for me to understand easily (and I made lots of documentation). The Dymo label maker and shrink wrap labels are a lifesaver. This includes cleaning up the sensor signals and protecting the system from engine noise using capacitor/diode quenching on the loud sources (alternator, ignition coils, fans...). Good planning is part of the "pay me now, or pay me later" equation.
That's about it. I've never had any kind of failure on the Speeduino that left me stranded since I installed it. I keep an up-to-date spare with me stashed in the car in case that ever happens (just like I used to do with my Megasquirt systems). I suspect I'll never need it but...
I'll post my yearly software tune update in the next post.
Cheers!
As promised, attached is the latest and greatest version of my Speeduino tune for my car. Just for those who found this with a search, here's what I'm running. Don't use my tune and expect it to be perfect for your car, but it might help you get started. I take no responsibility if you blow up your engine because you used my tune. Be forewarned!
Specs
- Speeduino board v0.4
- Speeduino firmware version 202207 (attached below)
- 1776 Type 1 engine
- 9:1 compression Panchito heads
- Bosch 0280130012 or VW Temp Sensor 2 cylinder head temperature sensor
- Bosch 280140505 3 wire idle air control valve
- VW/Bosch ignition coil 032905106F (2000 Golf GTI 2.0L engine)
- CB Performance 2093 MAGNASPARK™ Crank Trigger Mounting Kit without Coil
- VW Speedshop IDF Throttle Bodies
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Mike have you thought of putting clear shrink wrap over the printed tape? Might be longer lasting…
@IaM-Ray, I haven't. The Dymo heat fuses the letters onto the shrink tube. I hit it with some solvent (don't remember whether it was brake cleaner or acetone) and it didn't come off.
Well, if this thread isn't a playbook to get some of us into the exciting world of custom Aircooled EFI, I don't know what will. I totaled your list for pricing and came up with $1,394 with a little rounding on the high side to be safe, and I would throw in another $200 for incidentals (and still probably come out on the low side of reality).
Still, that's in the ballpark of the cost of a new pair of Dells, if you can find them, and your setup is far more user/engine friendly under all conditions.
Certainly gets one to thinkin'.
@Gordon Nichols posted:Well, if this thread isn't a playbook to get some of us into the exciting world of custom Aircooled EFI, I don't know what will.
Thanks, Gordon! I like to make a lot of mistakes so others don't have to. Danny has a lot of expertise, too.
If anyone else wants to give it a go, I'd be happy to consult for free from afar (helped out a guy in Nigeria who speeduino'd his old VW last year).
Just think, after everything works, you can sell your Dells to recoup some of the cost!
@Michael Pickett posted:@Stan Galat, here you go.
1/2" heat shrink label tubing:
KCMYTONER Compatible for Dymo 18056 Heat Shrink Tubes 12mm Label Tape for Wires Cables 1/2 Inch x 4.9 ft Used in Rhino Pro 3000, 4200, 5200, 5000, 6000 Industrial Label Maker, Black on Yellow, 2 Pack https://a.co/d/1ZICN1i
1/4" heat shrink label tubing:
Aonomi Compatible Labels Tape Replacement for DYMO 18052 Heat Shrink Tube Compatible with DYMO Industrial Rhino 5200, 4200, 5000, 6000 Label Maker (1/4", Black on Yellow), 3-Pack https://a.co/d/9WWiK8Q
Dymo 160 Label Maker:
DYMO Label Maker LabelManager 160 Portable Label Maker, Easy-to-Use, One-Touch Smart Keys, QWERTY Keyboard, Large Display, for Home & Office Organization, Black https://a.co/d/ipiMYpp
Michael does the Dymo 160 take the Rhino Heat Shrink Tube? I thought you needed the Rhino Printer models at least that is what Dymo says.
@IaM-Ray posted:Michael does the Dymo 160 take the Rhino Heat Shrink Tube? I thought you needed the Rhino Printer models at least that is what Dymo says.
I haven't tried the Rhino tubing, Ray. Just the cheaper brands. Got a big project coming up?
Going to renew some wiring and thought it might be easier to have lettering on shrink wrap rather than a sticker that sometimes falls off.
@Michael Pickett posted:Thanks, Gordon! I like to make a lot of mistakes so others don't have to. Danny has a lot of expertise, too.
I don't know about that. I can certainly help with wiring and plumbing. Programming? I'm in the middle of a steep learning curve.
@Michael Pickett M. Piquette 
sorry to keep asking but maybe others are interested. I feel like @Stan Galat multiple labellers and they seem to never be the solution, some fade, get unglued, or just plain ole can't be found. So if anyone has more experience with a solid Dymo or other that doesn't break the bank it would be appreciated. From Dymo it seems the tubes can only be printed by their Rhino or XTL models and those are pretty costly so it is really a business tool for someone who does this daily. Any help would be appreciated. @Gordon Nichols
P.S. Should I move this to it's own title?
@IaM-Ray posted:From Dymo it seems the tubes can only be printed by their Rhino or XTL models
Sorry, I didn't understand the question earlier. Yes, the Dymo 160 is a reasonably priced model that will print on Dymo compatible shrink tube stock just fine.
I belong to a FB auto wiring group and the 160 was recommended for shrink tube use by numerous folks who didn't need to pay the big bucks for a pro model.
I found the less expensive tube stock above by looking in Amazon for products that would fit the more expensive Dymo models. It worked. I'm 99% sure the more expensive Dymo tubes would work, too.
The downside is that once you have a label maker, everything looks like it needs a label. Just ask my 5 yo granddaughter...
@Michael Pickett Thanks for this I off to get one of those babies even if I might act my shoe size and label everything in sight. I'll take the risk.
Have you thought of giving the group a small DIY lesson in cable labelling, Master Piquette ?
@IaM-Ray posted:@Michael Pickett Thanks for this I off to get one of those babies even if I might act my shoe size and label everything in sight. I'll take the risk.
Have you thought of giving the group a small DIY lesson in cable labelling, Master Piquette ?
No. I think my wiring and labeling expertise can be summed up with:
Labeling tips:
Document it for when your failing memory does its thing. I use Google Sheets on my laptop to keep track of the source, wire color, wire gauge, connectors, wiring bundle. I print out a copy for access, but most just pull it up on my smartphone to check out something that I didn't label on the car.
Put a label on the wire wherever you're likely to want to know what the wire is and don't want to chase down the aforementioned document or use your volt/ohm meter to figure it out. For me, that was where the wires ran into connectors, the ECU, and relay/fuse boxes.
Wiring tips:
Plan out your wiring bundles and connectors based on what is likely to be disconnected later. For example, the wiring bundle and connector to the right side throttle body has the wires for the throttle position sensor, intake air temperature sensor and cylinder 1 & 2 fuel injectors. The left throttle body bundle and connector only has the fuel injector wires. Removing/replacing the manifolds and throttle bodies easily was the goal.
Buy plenty of decent connectors and use them wherever they will help you later. I used cheap, but well design connectors in many places. For example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9XNFGG/ and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUTYYS2
Find the right crimping tool(s) for your connectors. Don't be afraid to buy less expensive crimpers, but try them out. If they don't give you a good crimp, keep looking. Sometimes you may need a crimper that ratchets or is designed to have mechanical advantage to get a tight enough crimp. I have been known to extend the crimper handles with some aluminum tubing to get a tight crimp on a tough or large connection.
Don't solder joints unless you have to. Wire crimps will be more sturdy in an auto environment. If you're worried about corrosion in the crimp, put a little dielectric grease on the joint before you crimp it.
Cheap, fleabay shrink tubing is a good way to keep your wiring bundles neat and protected from most abrasion. I'm not a pro and I'm not wiring a space shuttle, so good enough is good enough.
I'll attach my 3 wiring documents as examples of what I did and a pic of the speeduino wiring box where all the wires are labeled. In that photo, you'll also see some spare wires with large labels on them that I use when placing extra temperature sensors around the engine compartment.
Attachments
Images (1)
Files (3)
I'm looking into it from the computer side. IIRC, we at EMC Eng. printed them by the 8-12" X 11" sheet, then you peeled off the backing and stuck it to an I/O cable. They never came loose. That was 25 years ago (can you believe it?) so I have to consult with some current systems engineers to see what they use, today. Stay tuned.
This just in from a real computer field service guy. When they label data center cables they may have to do several hundred or a thousand cables, usually in some sort of sequential order by server/domain so they set up an Excel table and run a formula to increment the numbers and then print them by the sheet to be applied in the center.
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Labe...YPXO4TKD4MZ&th=1
I'm still looking for something more useful for car guys but it'll be hard to beat what Mike gave us. Computer centers aren't usually known for going cheap on anything, so a labeler for them will usually start over $500. Go with the Dymo-160. It can't be beat.
Well, the Dymo is still the cheapest, but someone suggested a Brady M-211 label maker (around $150) which is amazingly cheap for a data center printer but still expensive for a hobby use.
Personally, I use a P-Touch PT-1700 that I got years ago, now replaced by a PT-400D. Super-easy to use, but I’ve never done tubular labels on it, just straight flat labels that can adhere to a 1/4” dia or larger cable or any flat surface.
The cheapest by far are those sheets of blank labels that you can print on an ink-jet printer, but they’re not as convenient.
I did the same as Mike with respect to bundles and locations.
My driver side throttle body has injectors and TPS. The passenger side has injectors, IAT, and cylinder head temp. It is easy to disconnect and pull each harness out of the way.
There is a harness for the coil pack along with the passenger side throttle body, but it branches off. Other than a separate harness for the crank position sensor, that's it to the engine.
There are a couple wires that run to the fuel pump in a separate harness.
I used Harbor Freight heatshrink. They sell a pack of 4 foot lengths in six different diameters for a few bucks. Buy two. Fish/pull the wires through.
I used marine heatshrink at all the connectors, this oozes sealant out to protect the wiring.
You can see all of this on my EFI thread. Ignore the deviations into coffee LOL!
https://www.speedsterowners.co...version-of-my-spyder
And listen to Mike, he knows what he's doing.
@Gordon Nichols I read a lot of stuff and it seems the consensus is that the Brady's are a cut above but the tape is a lot more expensive.
BTW @Michael Pickett I was wondering which tape you did finally use that was bomb proof was that cloth or vinyl ? My old printers all seem to fade with heat go figure that is why I need a new labeller.
@IaM-Ray posted:BTW @Michael Pickett I was wondering which tape you did finally use that was bomb proof was that cloth or vinyl ?
It's shrink tubing and I use the cheapest Harbor Freight heat gun I could find. Definitely not cloth, but I don't know what kind of plastic is used. For example:
KCMYTONER Compatible for Dymo 18056 Heat Shrink Tubes 12mm Label Tape for Wires Cables 1/2 Inch x 4.9 ft Used in Rhino Pro 3000, 4200, 5200, 5000, 6000 Industrial Label Maker, Black on Yellow, 2 Pack https://a.co/d/1ZICN1i
Sorry Michael I just did not catch that on the first time around. Great stuff and thanks again.
Honestly, I don’t think you can beat that Dymo-160 that Mike mentioned. All of the labelers recommended by the Computer guys started well over $150 and quickly hit stratospheric pricing so you don’t want those.
Your not kidding Gordon my thoughts exactly.
My EFI conversion thread is closed now. So I figured I'd comment over here on Mike's, which is alive and kicking.
I did a datalog tonight with the help of my Android phone, MSDroid, and my wife. My wife called out throttle position as I tried to keep it steady in 3rd gear from 1500 to about 5000rpm.
I did some pulls down hills(for LOW throttle settings), then as I got to 50% throttle or higher, I did them going up hill to add extra load. Like a dyno, without the expense LOL!
I loaded the log onto MLV HD(Mega Log Viewer). Then I played with the program until I figured out how to analyze the data and apply automatic changes to the VE table(fueling). SWEET! It's a pretty powerful program. I know not how to use it.
That's the rub though, isn't it? Steep learning curve, indeed.
I'll drive it tomorrow after I upload the new table.
It's finally NICE weather here. I've been really busy this summer with other projects.
I'd like to go on record as saying that I think what Mike has done here is invaluable. I never would have considered this if Mike hadn't pointed the way. This stuff is amazing.
Michael wrote: "I belong to a FB auto wiring group..."
Could you please not tell me where to find that group...
@Stan Galat posted:I'd like to go on record as saying that I think what Mike has done here is invaluable. I never would have considered this if Mike hadn't pointed the way. This stuff is amazing.
Awww, I'm just a simple guy who grew up on a dirt road down in old NC. And I like to play with 'lectricity.
@Michael Pickett posted:Awww, I'm just a simple guy who grew up on a dirt road down in old NC. And I like to play with 'lectricity.
'lectrixity. Get it right, Pickett.
.
@Stan Galat posted:....I'd like to go on record as saying that I think what Mike has done here is invaluable. I never would have considered this if Mike hadn't pointed the way...
I think your gratitude may be a touch misplaced, Stan.
Sure, Mike is a capable guy who has accomplished a lot with this project, but it's really the volcano you should be thanking.
I mean, besides being capable, Mike is also a reasonable guy. If he lived somewhere normal, like Sacramento or Peoria, he probably would have been perfectly content with a nice pair of Webers or Dells. It's not like he's posting lap times on his Facebook page or trying to blow off the locals in their hotrods at every light change (do they even have traffic lights on Maui?)
But what are you going to do when there's a 10,000-foot volcano in the neighborhood? You're probably having to negotiate 7000 feet of elevation change every time you go out for tacos or pick up the dry cleaning (do they even have dry cleaning on Maui?)
So, a big Thank You to Haleakalā for making all of this possible and a tip of the hat to Mike, too, for being in the right place at the right time.
.
@Sacto Mitch posted:If he lived somewhere normal, like Sacramento
I'm sorry, I'm a bit hard of hearing. Did you just call Sacramento "normal"? I'm going to need a minute to process that.