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I happened to see Teby's car at one of local air-cooled mechanics to look at his Setrab fitment.  The mechanic lifted the car overhead on the lift and we both could see that the brand new fuel filter that been installed was leaking. Apparently the $1.99 filter the mechanic installed was not properly glued together and was dripping fuel.  Thankfully Teby hadn't picked up the car yet and wisely Teby's filter is located outside the engine bay. 

 

This got me to thinking about moving mine.  I went to NAPA and picked up the NAPA Gold 3031 metal fuel filter, thank you Gordon for that part number, and about 6 feet of new fuel line.  I drilled a slightly larger hole in the fire wall to accommodate the larger outside diameter of the new fuel hose.  Then I attached one end of the new fuel hose to the mechanical pump with a hose clamp, put the fuel hose through the firewall, and got under the car.  I measured the amount of hose I needed and cut off the excess with some very sharp wire cutters.  I fitted the fuel filter to the end of the hose with a hose clamp and attached a two inch piece of fuel hose (included with the filter) to the other end of the filter. Again using some hose clamps for all attachments.  I pulled off the old hose from the metal tube running from the tank and before TOO much gas ran out I reattached the new hose to the nipple.

 

I inspected the old fuel hose and it was a rubber material with what looked like cloth braided material over it and found that it was very brittle.  It wouldn't stretch anymore and if I tried to insert a Phillips screwdriver into the end it would just split and fall apart.  I looked at my engine bay and saw that there was some of that same type of braided hose going from the exit side of the pump to the tee feeding the carbs. I trimmed off some more hose and replaced that too.

 

Then I got under the front of the car and could see that the six inch piece of hose that went from the bottom of the tank to the tip of the metal tube that runs to the back of the car was the same braided hose.  Up went the front of the car and off came the old brittle fuel line.  I got a long piece of fuel line and a five gallon bucket to drain the fuel into because I did not think I could make the swap quite so quickly.  I wasn't too concerned since the fuel gauge read "empty" but I've learned that the "empty" reading can be a relative term. Lucky for me I had the bucket because nearly three gallons of fuel came out of my "empty" tank.

 

I replaced that fuel hose with the new stuff and that got me to thinking (here's where the "If You Give a Mouse a Cookie" thing comes into play) about the fuel sending unit.  Which way do I need to bend the arm on the float to get it to read 1/4 tank when there is 1/4 tank of gas?  I'm thinking I need to bend the arm so the float sits lower in the tank causing it to rise thereby reading more fuel in the tank.  Does that sound right?  Right now it is a solid "E", no bouncing, and there is three gallons of fuel in the tank.  Three gallons is a hefty reserve; I'd be comfortable with a gallon of fuel as a reserve.

 

Thanks.

If you're not living life on the edge, you're taking up too much space!

 

 

 

Last edited by Robert M
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I replaced all of my hoses last Spring.  After 15 years of driving, I found the same thing - they had all become "Petrified", were stiff and brittle (Kinda like my Great Aunt Agnes was).

 

Replacing everything is a semi-major Pain-In-The-Butt and can take a day or two to Git-R-Dun but, once done, the piece of mind is priceless.  Much greater than a piece of my Great Aunt Agnes' mind, which was usually given out, mercilessly, for free.

 

I also found that I have three different sizes of hose in my car, going from 3/8" to 5/16" to 1/4", depending on where it is.  Some brilliant, non-engineer came up with that one so I just wrote the different sizes and where they're used in my ever-growing "Pearl Book - A History" for future reference.  Along with the NAPA number for that fuel filter that will also probably get replaced in another 15 years.

Robert, while your tank is empty you might consider a fuel shut-off under your tank. Very easy to do and makes changing your fuel filter a  little less messy.  I did this when I installed an electric fuel pump, which came with a filter. I also installed another fuel filter where you did behind the fire wall.  Kind of belt and suspenders but you can never have fuel that's too clean.

Tank float adjustment

1) You must disconnect the battery to avoid a potential spark because

    you are working with an open area into the gas tank which will have

    fumes...yeah the power is keyed off but it's better to be over cautious...

    Remove the two wires and screws securing the sender assembly

    to the tank

2) With the sender assembly removed from the tank, measure from the opening

    straight to the bottom of the tank.

3) Measure from the underside of the sender plate to the bottom of the float thingy

    this should be the same as the tank measurement .... I bend the float arm so

    that there is a bit more fuel in the tank than shown on the gauge.

4) Reassemble being careful not to strip the screw holes in the tank and

    reconnect the two wires.

5) Reconnect the battery

Last edited by Alan Merklin

Yeah, we both have each other on "Speed Dial"

 

I'm jus' sayin'.......

 

Sometimes, I break something just to have something to fix.

 

At least I have a good place to fix stuff in.  This was yesterday, with Rich Drewek's art on the wall and my BN2 heater in the test stand (where it's been since April, btw).

 

 

Garage II

 

BTW, al Gallo's idea of the fuel shutoff under the tank is a super idea.  I wanted to do that last Spring and couldn't find what I wanted fast enough so installed without it (He's lucky to live closer to a West Marine store than me).  Looks like the old "Vice Grip Trick" the next time I need to service the fuel system.

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  • Garage II
Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Hey, Gordon, get that heater going, so you can extend your season this fall......

 

I replaced my engine area fuel hose with as much hard line as possible this spring, and sleeved the German cloth covered hose with stainless braid. In the engine bay, I have a 10 inch piece from the firewall to the left carb, and just enough to go from one carb to the other, that's it. Metal hard line from the front all the way back through the center tunnel, over to the driver's side, and up the firewall.

 

At the front, I inspected the hose and clamps and found all is OK.

Last edited by DannyP

Valid mod - I found myself looking for a safe place to pull off and fill my tank from the jerry can (since I expected the car to shut off any minute given the constant, no-bobbing "E" reading on the gauge...!) and next thing you know I made it to a gas station, 40 klicks away!

I'm like "damn, I must'a pressed the 'ECO' button by mistake...!" 

 

But I think I'll keep my gas gauge where it is - I prefer to fool myself into thinking I'm empty

I've got one thing to say about adjusting the fuel sender float:

 

That was easy!

 

Bought a new fuel safe rubber gasket, pulled the sender, opened up the angle a little, reinstalled it, and now it sits at a 1/4 tank with a little more than three gallons in it. I'll track my mileage and fill-ups for a bit just to double check.

 

Thanks for the help.

Last edited by Robert M

Thanks, guys.

That is probably the only straight piece of that road. Most everything around here is twisty. Which brings up quark #2, Steering wheel that gets loose. I'll start another thread for that one, as to minimize thread drift.

 

At least my fuel lines are brand new. I did have to replace fuel lines on a 914 I once had, yearly. Watching fuel dripping off of a hot exhaust makes for some tense moments.

Last edited by Carlos G
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