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Does anyone/everyone run a fuel pressure regulator? I don't and wonder if that's my MPG problem.

I'm getting about 19mpg in the city out of a 1600 with dual Kadrons, electronic ignigion SVDA dizzy and an EMPI exhaust from Vintage. AJ over at Low Bugget setup the carbs initially ("let me show you 12 problems with this brand new carb that need adjusting") so I'm very confident they're done right by Mr Kadron. He's thinking my Brosol fuel pump; it's putting out too much pressure which should be 1-2psi without a tee. I hear the stock mechanical fuel pump can put out 4-12 psi, but the fuel still has to get stopped at the float valve and then go through jets and all that.

I don't have a regulator or tester so I might just throw an adjustable regulator in there. Does everyone else have one and I didn't get the memo?

SKIPTOWN Mike

1957 CMC Speedster (SKIPTWN)

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Does anyone/everyone run a fuel pressure regulator? I don't and wonder if that's my MPG problem.

I'm getting about 19mpg in the city out of a 1600 with dual Kadrons, electronic ignigion SVDA dizzy and an EMPI exhaust from Vintage. AJ over at Low Bugget setup the carbs initially ("let me show you 12 problems with this brand new carb that need adjusting") so I'm very confident they're done right by Mr Kadron. He's thinking my Brosol fuel pump; it's putting out too much pressure which should be 1-2psi without a tee. I hear the stock mechanical fuel pump can put out 4-12 psi, but the fuel still has to get stopped at the float valve and then go through jets and all that.

I don't have a regulator or tester so I might just throw an adjustable regulator in there. Does everyone else have one and I didn't get the memo?

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It is really not a big deal to shim the pump. I put dual Solexes on an 1835 sandrail. The stock pump with the correct pushrod was putting out over 5 psi. I brought it down to 2 psi with about 6 gaskets. It runs perfect now. A pressure/vacuum gauge isn't too expensive and you temporarily plumb it in with a plastic T. Once you set the pressure, you don't need it anymore. Make sure you check the pressure throughout the rev range. I bought a stack of ten gaskets from John at aircooled.net, along with the carbs, linkage, and new pump.

I am not a fan of an external pressure regulator. I like electric, rotary, self-regulated pumps but there is nothing wrong with a correctly set up stock pump.
You need to check/set your fuel pressure.

Go to Sears or ebay and buy a fuel pressure/vacuum gauge and tee it in to see what the pump is putting out-it should be around $20.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00902179000P?vName=Sears%20Pro&cName=Professional&sName=Electrical&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

Then just stack more gaskets between the pump and the fuel pump flange to reach your desired pressure. You can buy a stack of 10 fuel pump gaskets from aircooled.net or you can always make your own from gasket material from the local auto parts store. Once you are done remove the gauge and work on jetting and time (basically tuning).
I'm running an electric fuel pump at the tank and a Holley 12-804 (red spring) adjustable regulator with a pressure gauge at the Webber 44 IDFs. This is the "expensive" regulator with a set screw and locknut adjustment, and is supposed to be superior to the dial adjustable variety?
Well I still don't have a pressure tester - went to Sears but they were out and, well, just been driving around without the need. I have the pack of 10 gaskets for the fuel pump and I'm going to try "some" shims in there. After reading all your threads I see it's anything from two to six shims. Anyone have more than six? I need to get down to 1-2 psi without a pressure test. I'll get tested next time at the mechanic.
Buy one off ebay or the internet. Go to your local autoparts store and spend the $20 for a gauge and tee it in and set it up properly. You cannot guess on how many gaskets to use to get the fuel pressure correct since there are too many variables involved(ie flange height, fuel pump brand, pushrod length, distributor drive shims use...).
Bruce, sorry for the late reply-I think it was the passenger side carb. That's where most of the fire damage was.
How the fire started is anyone's guess. One thing I know for sure is when the fire started the owner got out of the (stalled) car and moved to a safe distance. Smart move, except she forgot one thing-to turn off the ignition. With the ignition still on the electric fuel pump continued to pump raw fuel to the carbs, and continued to fuel the fire. When I picked up the car at the insurance compound the key was still in the 'on' position.
Ron
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