Fuel pump dilema

You don't show picture of engine or state #/type carb.  The stock VW engine fuel pump works fine for a single carb near stock engine.  It is in center of engine so using new correct sized fuel lines capable of handling ethanol fuel is mandatory.  All lines need to have stainless steel screw hose clamps.  NO plastic filters in engine compartment.  Place a metal filter above trans-axle or under front gas tank. Replace all gas line rubber bits (tank to tunnel and tunnel to metal hose to engine then that hose to pump.

Hard to find a photo without the 59 cent plastic gas filter visible on a stock engine.

If you have dual carbs - it's a different set up but again NO plastic filter!

TOO many Speedsters have burned to a crisp due to fuel leaks.  Fiberglass readily catches fire and little is left so good to address.

A VW mechanical fuel pump will feed most dual carbed engines, so unless you're running a > 2 liter 180 or 200 horsepower beast the stock pump should be more than adequate. Buy only fuel hose rated for today's fuels; I believe modern fuel hose is marked 30R10 (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). As Greg said, make sure all the rubber fuel lines from the tank to the engine are not going hard, they are properly routed so they don't rub anywhere, if the fuel line comes through the bellhousing sheetmetal check for the rubber grommet, make sure all the clamps and the fittings in the pump and carb(s) are snug and tighten, adjust and replace as necessary.

Do this at the beginning and monthly during the driving season and you won't have any issues. 

Oh, 1 other thing- the small, cheap Facet fuel pump doesn't move stock volume when regulated down to 3 lbs, so if you do replace the stock pump with an electric make sure it pumps adequate volume for what you have. I know lots of guys in the VW world use a Carter rotary pump with bigger dual carbed engines with success (iIrc this pump is even reasonably quiet). Al

Krusty, x3

Post some pics of your car and engine bay with engine/carb specs. We like pictures and giving advise!

ALB posted:

I know lots of guys in the VW world use a Carter rotary pump with bigger dual carbed engines with success (iIrc this pump is even reasonably quiet). Al

It's a good pump. Cheap too. One of the few things that are "set it and forget it".

Wow ! totally forgot specs and pictures... my bad. its a Beck speedster with CB performances 1915cc topped off with dual Webber 40mm. I have 2 plastic filters (one going before the pump and one after). Their is also a shut off valve to starve the carbs when winterizing (I guess). I got the car that way ... not a big fan of the way it is done. 

This is an old picture from when I purchased the car, you barely see the fuel filter and the shut off valve. I will have access the the car next week to post a better one. 

When replacing the filters the last bit of line between the filter and the pump snapped and I replaced it. The line runs between the left carb and the Air Box. The new line is a bit longer and instead of running under the fresh air tube it goes around it. I guess that is what could be the problem. 

What I am thinking here is to have an electric pump by the fuel tank in the front of the car, new rubber fuel rated lines and have a brass T fitting right behind the air box to feed both carbs. That way I avoid having lines running through the engine bay with a bunch of connections and filters each adding to the chances of a roadside BBQ. 

My idea here is just to keep it simple and keep the car healthy on the long run.

Their is many pumps out there with different pressure rating... I was "window shopping" at CIP1.ca and found that one : http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDeta...=C26%2D127%2D202%2DB

Not sure what pressure is required for my setup.

Thanks all for the great support.

jc

That's a solenoid "vib-ra-tor" pump like the Empi/Facet.  Same CIP  pump is 1/2 that price at Amazon $23!  https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-...AZPDX01BNFWJ88CBZZ6K

Go for a real rotary vane motor pump like the Carter pump $32 (ouch $95 at CIP) -

https://www.amazon.com/Carter-...ter+rotary+fuel+pump

Are high prices due to low Canadian $$$???  Does that make a $70k IM only $35k USD?

I forgot to mention that when using an electric pump it's best to mount it up front and close to the fuel tank, as most electric pumps are pushers, and don't pull very well from a distance.

Great ! thanks guys, Now I know where to start from.

Yes US to CAD is killing us these day. Good thing i have an office in the US where i can ship stuff :->.

Now I need to check how to wire that puppy up. Any of you use "collision switch" or "oil pressure switch" ???

jc

Nothing wrong with a mechanical pump. If you ever switched to a electric, you need a cut off relay that prevents the pump feeding a fire if there was ever an accident.

I used hardlines on mine with very short sections of hose.

An electric pump will never fill your crankcase up with fuel.

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

An electric pump will never fill your crankcase up with fuel.

True, but in the 42 years i've owned my Betle, i've never had a mechanical pump do that. BTW, my current pump is 20+ years old.

Like Wolfgang posted, the Airtex off Amazon is cheap and works great. I like it because it has a filter and accepts threaded hose fittings (1/8" NPT).

I mounted it on the "firewall" where VS originally mounted their oil-cooler, I used one of the left-over bolts to mount the pump.

It's a great pump, my fuel gauge registers 3 1/2 lbs which is right in the middle of Weber specs and I've not yet (knock on my wooden head) had any problems with it...except the gas it pumps is always too expensive and flows through it (and my carburetors) much too quickly!

Will

Glenn Ring posted:

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

An electric pump will never fill your crankcase up with fuel.

True, but in the 42 years i've owned my Betle, i've never had a mechanical pump do that. BTW, my current pump is 20+ years old.

That's cool. I'd be the guy.

If you have a electric pump, you need to add this relay. It has a 31b terminal that runs to the 1(-) negative side of the coil. It cuts power to the pump whent he engine stops running.

OK! So now I have a decent Winter project.

Thanks, Glenn!

Downside: when the car sits for any length of time (with Dellortos, for sure), and the float bowls dry out, you can crank the car for 30 seconds while they fill

... just like a mechanical pump.

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

Downside: when the car sits for any length of time (with Dellortos, for sure), and the float bowls dry out, you can crank the car for 30 seconds while they fill

... just like a mechanical pump.

Actually, if i remember correctly when power is first applied, it runs for 30 seconds.

I used that relay and added a push button switch to bypass the relay. So, if the car has been sitting for a while I hold the button in for half a minute before starting the car.

I like the idea of the coil relay and even more the "primer" switch ... very nice !

thanks all

I will put picture when this is all done.

j c

The main reason I installed the "primer switch" is because I have an Accusump. It releases oil under pressure into the engine when I start the car. I didn't want to turn the key and release the oil before I was ready to actually start the car.

Much engine wear occurs when you start the car before the oil gets really flowing. The Accusump helps prevent that. It also pushes oil into the engine if there is a loss of pressure for any other reason, like cornering hard causing to oil to slosh away from the pump pickup tube. Originally I did not have an add-on sump and needed it more for that then.

Glenn Ring posted:

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

Downside: when the car sits for any length of time (with Dellortos, for sure), and the float bowls dry out, you can crank the car for 30 seconds while they fill

... just like a mechanical pump.

Actually, if i remember correctly when power is first applied, it runs for 30 seconds.

That would be really, really cool. I've been seeing these for years, and never put one in because of what I mentioned. If the relay works as you describe, that's pretty great.

Thanks, Glenn!

I just put this one in a 66 Beetle with a 2332 and it works like a charm. it also hase a built in fuse.

Mine has the fuse too. It seems like it was a VW Fox relay.

Hello everybody, I managed to have a bit of quiet time in the garage to make some progress on the winter projects. The fuel pump was one of them and a breather kit.

I ordered the carter rotary pump. I should have done more homework before buying this exact model (P60430) since it is a 6PSI model. They do have a 4PSI model (P60504) more tailored to the Webber 3PSI requirement. No big deal, I added a fuel regulator and a small pressure gauge to make sure everything was perfect.

The pump was installed right behind the tank on the car frame cross member with rubber padding to try to cut the noise down a little bit. 

I followed the attached wiring diagram to allow for a primer switch just in case the car is parked for a while and added a 10amps fuse. The holley regulator was adjusted to exactly 3PSI with the engine not running, while running I didn't see a drop in pressure. Will see in the summer when I put more RPM's on it but the pump seems to have plenty of power to keep pushing fuel at a constant pressure. 

After all this was an easy project, I am glad its done.  

Nice job Krusty. Once you stopped clowning around and got to it, it was easy.

Not just good: good enough!