My fuel pump has died, it was a rotary 3.5 psi of unknown make.
Any recommendations on the BEST fuel pump? I know that's a matter of opinion, but I do want to put the best in and not worry about it again.
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Cole Thompson- posted:My fuel pump has died, it was a rotary 3.5 psi of unknown make.
Any recommendations on the BEST fuel pump? I know that's a matter of opinion, but I do want to put the best in and not worry about it again.
Oddly enough, fuel pumps are generally very GENERIC and borderline CRAP. I just replaced my pump in a $2000 fuel cell and it was a cheap NO-NAME $189 pump that was the size of a pack of cigarettes!
Low pressure pumps, UNLIKE high pressure pumps for fuel injection, are almost or ARE TOYS....plain and simple(much to MY surprise). Plain unsophisticated junk that somehow gets the job done.....
my Airtex was $25 on Amazon, check out the recent thread on Whitecloud
of course, she only has 1700km on her...
Will Hesch posted:my Airtex was $25 on Amazon, check out the recent thread on Whitecloud
of course, she only has 1700km on her...
WOW....there are some JUMBO STARBUCKS drinks that are almost $25
I have been runnng. CB Performance 3.5 PSI rotary pump for close to 20 years and still going strong.
Hi Gordon - I think you have a CMC as well right? Did you put this pump up front by the gas tank or somewhere downstream? I run dual Dell 40's on a 1915cc with a standard fuel pump and have been toying with he idea of running an electric pump.
Carey recommends the Weber redline pump and matching regulator. All-in it's like $150.
The CB is a re-labeled Carter pump and a lot of people are partisans of those. No pressure regulator needed. They're 3x cheaper & come with a filter attached.
Not sure which rig I'll buy for the Spyder.
edsnova posted:Carey recommends the Weber redline pump and matching regulator. All-in it's like $150.
The CB is a re-labeled Carter pump and a lot of people are partisans of those. No pressure regulator needed. They're 3x cheaper & come with a filter attached.
Not sure which rig I'll buy for the Spyder.
That price is not bad but I think anything with the name "Weber" will throw my Dells into otherworldly conniptions fits or some sh*t like that...lol! I like tried and true and specially if on a same make of car. It seems that we CMC owners are a very low % in the SOC world right Gordon?
CMC here...
Same. CMC.
I had an old Facet ( very noisy ) fuel pump for about 30,000 miles and no failure. I used them in homebuilt airplanes too and never had a failure. I switched to a Carter type pump with it's separate inline filter ( just enough noise to let you know it's working ) and put about 15 to 20 thou on it. Not confident in almost all secondary parts these days and mine still works fine, but I carry a spare up front in the parts bag. No regulator required but I run a single Weber 32/36.
edsnova posted:Carey recommends the Weber redline pump and matching regulator. All-in it's like $150.
The CB is a re-labeled Carter pump and a lot of people are partisans of those. No pressure regulator needed. They're 3x cheaper & come with a filter attached.
Not sure which rig I'll buy for the Spyder.
I got several of the "3x cheaper Carter pump" Ed references, but I got mine from Amazon. $35 per, and it's in Prime. I've never had one go bad, but I carry one in my spares because I'm a belt/suspenders kinda guy. I toss the filter of unknown origin.
Here's the link to the CB/Carter/Amazon pump. I love 'em- quiet, long-lasting, small, and cheap. What's to think about?
Dutch: Yes, us CMC tinkerers are a tough breed - we have to be. There's no builder to go back to!
My CB pump is mounted just in front of the passenger footwell on that little shelf just sitting there waiting for it. I use a long-ish bolt coming up through the shelf as a captive stud and use insulated electrical cable clamps on the pump on one side, and the filter on the other side of the stud. The Filter is a NAPA Gold 3031.
Fuel comes from the tank, above, down to the filter, out to a "T" to supply both the engine and my gas heater. That's the only filter in the system (so it better be good!)
The photo below shows the set-up as I was working out hose routing for the "T" and separate gas heater pump, looking in from the front passenger-side wheel. Top can is the filter, middle can is the fuel pump (the mounting stud is in between them and the pump is wrapped in a rubber sleeve to reduce noise and vibration) and lower can is the heater pump (which has its own stud). The "T" went in-line right after the filter and fed both pumps from the right with the outputs exiting left (although the heater line then goes to the front, off on the right). "Creative Plumbing 301", but everything is anchored and makes very little noise when running. If you're going to all this work, I would get a 1/4" in-line fuel shut-off and install it between the tank and the filter. Makes changing the filter a snap.
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+1 on the Carter pump Stan linked above. Quiet, gets the job done, self-regulated at exactly 3.5 pounds on my gauge.
I also bought it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Carter-...GK467DVX06ZCA4C02PKN
Reliable, quiet, no-name steel filter is fine, but the pre-crimped hose clamps weren't very tight. I replaced them with Webasto clamps.
Need another reason to like it? Easy availability, and yes, 2 days it's in your hands.
Gordon Nichols posted:Dutch: Yes, us CMC tinkerers are a tough breed - we have to be. There's no builder to go back to!
My CB pump is mounted just in front of the passenger footwell on that little shelf just sitting there waiting for it. I use a long-ish bolt coming up through the shelf as a captive stud and use insulated electrical cable clamps on the pump on one side, and the filter on the other side of the stud. The Filter is a NAPA Gold 3031.
Fuel comes from the tank, above, down to the filter, out to a "T" to supply both the engine and my gas heater. That's the only filter in the system (so it better be good!)
The photo below shows the set-up as I was working out hose routing for the "T" and separate gas heater pump, looking in from the front passenger-side wheel. Top can is the filter, middle can is the fuel pump (the mounting stud is in between them and the pump is wrapped in a rubber sleeve to reduce noise and vibration) and lower can is the heater pump (which has its own stud). The "T" went in-line right after the filter and fed both pumps from the right with the outputs exiting left (although the heater line then goes to the front, off on the right). "Creative Plumbing 301", but everything is anchored and makes very little noise when running. If you're going to all this work, I would get a 1/4" in-line fuel shut-off and install it between the tank and the filter. Makes changing the filter a snap.
I'll have to check that shelve area for my possible mount as well, and I like the idea of a fuel shut off valve. I do have the good 'ole Harbor Freight fuel line clamps but that is more work than a shut off valve...and I suppose that could be used as an anti theft device 
Thanks again for good advice!
Mine is like Gordon's. I put a shut off in after the fact because I got tired of using a vise grip to close the line every time I wanted to pull the tank. Live and learn.
I zip tied mine to the top of the front beam.
I used a Briggs & Stratton shut off valve between the tank and the pump filter.
Anyone - Do you remove and block off the mechanical fuel pump after installing an Electric fuel pump or just leave it as is?
Remove and block the opening.
They sell aluminum block-off plates for the fuel pump.
I actually have one I have been saving for the Carlisle raffle. I might make it available to a good home.
in a pinch and left on the side of the road, i had to install an edelbrock e-fuel pump to get me home 17301 http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/fuel-pumps/. seems to work fine and my flat spot utterly disappeared. it's rated 4-7psi. could this be a long term install?
any reason to install a pressure regulator for a dual weber carb setup? anyone think it's a bad idea to install in the engine bay?
I would caution against installing a pressure regulator in the engine bay. I have had one fail and it flooded the compartment.
I now only have hard lines back there and no pressure regulator.
Hidden Impact posted:in a pinch and left on the side of the road, i had to install an edelbrock e-fuel pump to get me home 17301 http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/fuel-pumps/. seems to work fine and my flat spot utterly disappeared. it's rated 4-7psi. could this be a long term install?
any reason to install a pressure regulator for a dual weber carb setup? anyone think it's a bad idea to install in the engine bay?
If it ain't broke don't fix it!
Bill, it was broke! The failed fuel pump left me stranded. I had to get back home so I installed this from a local auto parts store and it got me back home.
just curious if others have experience with this pump, if they’ve mounted it in the engine bay, and if it needs a regulator. I don’t want to run the risk of too much gas entering the carbs etc.
If the pump is providing too much pressure, (I’m assuming, from the shape, that it is a solenoid pump), you’ll see the float bowls overflowing as the high pressure overcomes the pilot valves, floods the bowls and overflows into the cylinders. It might also run rich all the time, maybe making black or dark gray smoke from the exhaust.
That would also produce hard (flooded) starts whenever warm or having sat for just a few minutes.
If you don’t see any of that, my guess would be that it is perfectly OK and just drive the heck out of it. I have a CB rotary pump. All I did was to install it (I don’t have a regulator), start driving and never looked back!
I'd replace it with a pump that supplies no more than 3.5 psi and is self-regulating. Like I said above back in July. No pumps or regulators in the engine compartment. Carter ($25 on Amazon!) or CB(rebranded more expensive for no reason Carter). Rotary pumps like to push, mount it under the tank up front.
A neighbor of mine tells a story of when he was a kid... Their fuel pump went out, and he had to ride the last couple of miles home, pouring gas into the carb... Basically he had his feet on the fender, leaning into the engine bay, pouring gas into the carb while his dad drove slowly, peeking under the hood which was up.
I'm not sure I believe him, but he swears it's a true story.
Hidden Impact posted:Bill, it was broke! The failed fuel pump left me stranded. I had to get back home so I installed this from a local auto parts store and it got me back home.
just curious if others have experience with this pump, if they’ve mounted it in the engine bay, and if it needs a regulator. I don’t want to run the risk of too much gas entering the carbs etc.
I meant the" new pump" if it's working fine and not flooding your carbs, leave it as is.
A cutoff switch would be a good idea though.