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Wondering how to run a Holley Regulator and gauge with dual 40's. Is there a way to run a tee so the gauge is inline and not just on the right side of the regulator or will it matter or must I plumb to driver side banjo then run to passenger side carb like stock set up?

Found a toggle switch (PO installed) for pump power way up under dash behind 2x2 metal frame--that was impossible to see unless you put it in. There is also a switch for ALT Power--interesting. Going to pick up some heavier duty switches as these are for smaller wire than what they should be.

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Whatever fuel pump you're running, Bob, is providing the proper fuel pressure without the need for a regulator, and that's great. Other fuel pumps (even the stock mechanical unit- some aftermarket ones are capable of putting out over 7lbs under the right/wrong conditions) need a regulator, and there's no getting around it. I've never heard of Dellortos not being affected by too high fuel pressure (they're not that much different than Webers, as they have fuel inlet valves, do they not?). If they're not affected by fuel pressure like Webers are that's news to me, but then I've never claimed to know everything about these engines (just a whole awful lot!).

@Heritage 2008 (my apologies, I've forgotten your first name)- can you give us the link to the regulator you're looking at?

Hey guys--David from Akron, Ohio

What I have read is that they like 3-3.5 psi and are sensitive to the correct pressure. This regulator is for 1-4 psi. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/hly-12-804   This was a garage find with ZERO literature or info--purchased off widow. Its a 1835 cc is all I know--pulled head to determine that. Not sure if it has a oem cam or not. There had been a electric fuel pump on it at some time but wires were cut and PO put on a mechanical Brazilian pump on it--all I know. Carbs just have been rebuilt so I want to do what I can to prevent issues once its on the road--maybe this weekend and several issues related to a CMC sitting in a garage for 8 years. When I dumped the old gas and tried it when trailered home it spit and choked etc. Had a 050 dizzy in it and after 8 years figured the carb seals/gaskets would be dry and gummed up so--time to sort

Here is what I have done so far. All electrical demons sorted--except determining if the gauges work--they all light up (Vintage white faced for now), rotors turned-bearing cleaned and repacked, new master cylinder and lines, new carter fuel pump, all new hoses, replaced bent oem crank pulley with calibrated pulley, magna spark 2 kit, adjusted valves, Scat Aluminum covers, located very clean oem heater boxes, hideaway exhaust system, shocks, both drive shafts (IRS), installed Setrab cooler with fan, sanded rust free pan and coated with rustoleum--2 coats, butt sag Fb fix including a brace for the rear frame sag.

 

So back to the regulator--what have others done?????

Harbor freight has a $13 fuel pressure gauge (less 20% off coupon).  FLAPS may have one you can borrow and check it.  It will tell you what the Carter pump is putting out - if its 6-10 PSI then for sure you need regulator.  I would put the regulator off the main feed before the line T's off to separate carbs.

https://www.harborfreight.com/...um-tester-62637.html

Pittsburgh® Automotive 62637 Fuel Pump and Vacuum Tester

Last edited by WOLFGANG

No, use the Carter pump.  Many have them on here with few, if any complaints.  Most use them without any sort of regulator and they seem fine (including mine).  don't forget - it's a pusher, not a puller.  It has to mount right below the tank in the front.

Remember that there was probably old gas in the fuel line - enough to maybe make it cough and puke when first trying to start it.  Lord knows what else might be messing you up.  Ahhhh.....The Joys of the Madness!

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