Fuel sender and gauge ?

I finally got tired of running out of gas because my gauge always reads full even when its empty. Anyone know what the correct wiring configuration is for the fuel gauge ? My gauge has red wire on +, ground wire on "G", and a blue sender wire attached to the middle contact on the gauge. Fuel tank also has a ground wire attached at the sender. I've tested the sender with and Ohm meter and it appears to be working as a resistor. Any simple fixes ?

Brad: I have the same issue with my VS. I'll try Alan's reco out and let you know the results.

My gauges were from VS too. The original sending unit (VDO) I had gave me the same problem you described when I installed it. I tried everything I could think of and Alan helped with suggestions to but I ended up pulling the sender, bending the float arm in reverse and recalibrating it. It worked OK after that but fuel later began seeping at the factory wire connector (not related to bending the float arem) so I bought a new sender from CIP1.com for about $18 (Mexican made, VWC-113-919-049-D - FUEL TANK SENDER - STANDARD BEETLE 68-77 / GHIA 1974). So far, it works perfectly with the VS gauge. If all else fails, try a new sender.

Those import VS gauges are nice looking but inconsistent and inaccurate as hell. They'll do all sorts of weird numbers on you; it's a shame the Brazilian VDO's can't be found anymore.

Can the VS gauge faces, bezels, and pointers be used on stock early seventies Ghia gauges? The Ghia sending unit is a slide and tube affair and more accurate than the float-type and less prone to fluctuation as well. The fuel gauge face is held in place with two tiny screws, the size is standard 2 1/16" VDO. I bet that you could solve all the problems by combining the two gauges and using a Ghia sender.

Maybe . . . ?

I'm still trying to get this gas gauge working - no luck yet. Does anyone know of a way to trouble shoot the gauge to confirm if it is actually working. Maybe I'll trash the whole fuel gauge idea and come up with some sort of wooded dip stick that I can lash to the side of the tub. Thanks for all the ideas. Brad

Power up 12v to the + hot side of the gauge

The ground the sender lug, it should pin on F

When the sender ground lug is disconnected and no longer grounded it should fall to E

I pulled my sender today to try and troubleshoot mine too. No luck. I did notice that the arm was mounted in a side to side motion. Shouldn't the float be more up and down (front to back)??? Especially considering the angle of the tank.

I may just buy a new sender for shitz and giggles.

Note to Alan:
Your last post includes:
"Until you resolve this you can figure 225 miles with a ten gallon tank"

Vintage Speedsters gas tanks are only 8.5 Gal. I've bought several aftermarket tanks that were "replacement" tanks. Even if the supplier tells you it's the same as the original (10 gal) it isn't. They are all 8.5 gal. "Replacement" only means that it will fit in a VW.
I still want a 10 gal tank. I considered the 16 gal oversized tank but I still holding out for a 10 gal.
J C Whitney's replacement tank for 62-67 bug is listed in their catalog as 10 gal. I ordered one. I think they are made in USA so maybe it's gonna really be a 10 gal tank! It should be here in the next couple of days. We'll see.
I've played the same games with the tank sender on my VS. I ended up changing the length of the arm that holds the float. I cut the float arm off, made a new longer one and spliced it to the old arm using a barrel clamp. (accellerator cable or heater box cabel clamp).
Now I can adjust the length. I set the length of the float arm by trial and error method, I can now rely on "E" and "F" and not guestimate how many more miles I can go.

Greg B

Since the gauge stays pegged on full you have power to the gauge so I would then look at the grounds. As almost any wiring problem is usually ground related.
Be sure that the screw on the tank float flange is actually grounded to the float flange and doesn't have a nylon seal washer there that would not complete the ground circuit.


COVER THE OPENING BEFORE TESTING TO CONTAIN ANY GAS FUMES BEFORE TESTING THE FLOAT MOVEMENT

( Sorry for the Caps But It Can't Be Stressed Enough...

Also pull the float assembly out of the tank ..... move the float up and down to confirm the fuel gauge and or float actually functions.

Until you resolve this you can figure 225 miles with a ten gallon tank.....
___________________________________________________________________
8/27 Correction a some speedsters have the smaller 8.5 gas tank

Good catch Greg and thanks for the heads up on the smaller gas tanks.
I was suggesting the 225 mile range based on a 10 gallon tank.
Ok... so you may/ may not come up a quart or two shy on the 225 mile estimate. Annual membership in AAA is a cheap "insurance investment" :)

https://www.speedsterowners.com/knowledge/article.asp?id=201

Installing and setting up a sending unit.

I did the same as Trent for the china gauge from VS with the VDO sender. Although it worked it is un-accurate, when the odometer passes the 100 miles and the needle bounces like crazy in the

FTIW Dept. Installing a 16 Gallon tank, modifying and installing sending unit.

https://www.speedsterowners.com/knowledge/article.asp?id=201

FWIW. Installing a 16 Gal. tank and modifying/adjusting sending unit.

https://www.speedsterowners.com/knowledge/article.asp?id=201

Thanks for the tip on the knowledge section Jim. I think I found the right angle and the sending unit seems to be working properly.

Will a tube type 914 sending unit fit the regular tank? Will it clear regular tank shape bottom?