Fuel Sending Unit - Anyone Know How to Match This One?

That is an older aftermarket sender ( not a VW sender) FYI senders are ohm's matched to a particular gas gauge . Post a photo of the gauges you have so that I can figure what you'll need. Worse case, you'll confirm the sender / gauge  works and clean up what you have .

Sounds great, sure appreciate the help.  Here are a few pics of my gauges (Haneline) plus a shot of the gas tank from the side (if that helps any, since I don't know what kind/yr tank is in the car).  Didn't know sender was ohm's matched, and since lengths appear to be different between aftermarket senders, I wasn't sure how best to proceed if I couldn't find an exact replacement.  So again, thanks. 

Based on those gauges I'd say this isn't a stock built Speedster? Let's see some more photos of the car. LOL

Almost all the replacement sending units are plastic.  Appears either that unit sat out in the rain or you had lots of moisture in that tank. I look in the tank for rust. A 67 bug sending unit is what you looking for. Not sure it will work with your gauge. 

http://173.1.199.197/haneline_gauges.html

Ethanol gas strikes again!  If old one works you could check resistance (Ohms) with a Volt/Ohm meter and buy a replacement VW one that matches. Typical VW ones are 10-75 Ohms across the swing arm range.

If it still works - you might try taking it apart and treating the bare steel with one of the coating systems that changes the rust to black surface (Phosphoric acid based).  Then replace bolts with stainless or brass hardware.

From web site Alan found (gauge   sender)-

Car is a Vintage Speedster model 1956 356.  Was reportedly done by VS in 2013-2014: I am still waiting for papers from the folks who sold me the car to verify manf date.  Only has 2900 miles, and is like new, so I assumed build date of 2013-2014 was about right.  (If it's something other than 2013-2014, not sure I care.)

Damage from Ethanol?  I suppose it's possible. 

Sat out in the rain?  Moisture in the tank?  I don't think so, but also possible.  Condition is so bad on sender that I'm scratching my head too.  Bottom line is I'd prefer to buy a new replacement, not rebuild what I have.  

Anthony says I need a '67 Bug sending unit.  Alan Merklin posted website showing gauges, and site says they have sending units depending on ohm's, but site doesn't show the units or say they are specific to my car/tank.  

Using instruction from a YouTube video, I tested ohm's with sort of a crummy multimeter I have. Looks like I'm roughly 32-33 ohms at full tank reading, and approximately 257-260 ohms at empty reading; both readings are +/- due to the quality of the multimeter.

Anyone able to offer specifics on a replacement?  Forgive me if I seem dense.  I'm just unsure of what I should be buying, and electronics (plus gas) are not my area of expertise.  

I don't think anyone here has ever seen a VS with those gauges.  Most use the replica 356 gauges.  My guess is it was a VS roller finished by a home builder.  The very first sender listed is 33-240ohms so that sounds like electrical match - now you just need the mounting plate to match.  Actually that looks like easy swap out if necessary to your old mounting plate. 

OK I am 99% sure that I owned that car , bought it from " Brian H. " in NJ about 7 years ago.....Brian built the car in his home garage and ddia greta job.  I can't recall if it was a VS kit or CMC ...If you have custom aluminum plate floor pans anda one off custom carpet, it's one of many that I finished... The 10,000 brass screws were already on the door panels when I go the car ...Color is Chrysler 300 cream white.  I'll find a few pics in my file.......... I also did the top custom side curtains , luggage rack etc.  I sold it to an "Undertaker" somewhere in the Carolina's. On the first day he ran it out of gas and " died " ( you would think this guy could deal with ...THAT sorta thing ! He got frustrated because he had to push it to the side of the road, he then sold it to a guy in Texas.....

s

The gauges alone tells me it's the same. But add to that the labeling of the lights etc on the dash and the number of fasteners that affix the door panel to the door is another. VS only uses about six fasteners on the door cards. That has a whole lot more than that.

It is still a very nice looking Speedster. I really like that color on the interior and it is set off well by the cream color on the car.

Can someone humm "It's a small world after all"

From your ohm readings:

From web site Alan found (gauge   sender)-

should do it

Alan your right you... you would think he was used to something not moving.  I guess he forgot he could inject some life force into the car. 

Wow.  I guess the car is much older than I thought, and has had quite a few owner swaps along the way.  Wow, small world, sheesh.  Great to find a prior owner of the car!  We fell in love with it at a huge car show: $100K and $200K cars were present, but there was a gathering around this little clone Speedster.  Paint was done incredibly well, must have block sanded the hell out of the car, interior was like new, great colors, etc.  Owner was honest that it was a replica, but everyone thought it was an amazing little car.  And then two months later it showed up for sale at a local classic car shop, I saw it, recognized it... and the rest is history.  

Back to the sender: just because the website Alan found and the reference to a sender matching ohms and Haneline gauge doesn't mean that the sender is a match, correct?  Ohms match, but sender might be different length, different ground attachment, different bolt pattern, diameter of circle, etc.  (The site shows no picture of the sender unit, so we can't verify.)  I'll call the folks at the site and research I guess, but was hoping it wouldn't be this "odd" of a part compared to others.  Was hoping - lazy me - someone would say, "here it is, it's this one."  

*** I'm also now concerned about corrosion from the sender and the old gasket in the fuel tank.  Is there a drain for the gas tank under the car that's easy to access?  A way to "clean" the inside of the tank, beyond just draining?  

Bassplayuh wrote: Back to the sender: just because the website Alan found and the reference to a sender matching ohms and Haneline gauge doesn't mean that the sender is a match, correct?

........ Sender has to be a match for the gas gauge to work correctly.....

Ohms match, but sender might be different length, different ground attachment, different bolt pattern, diameter of circle, etc.  (The site shows no picture of the sender unit, so we can't verify.)

..I'll call the folks at the site and research I guess, but was hoping it wouldn't be this "odd" of a part compared to others.  Was hoping - lazy me - someone would say, "here it is, it's this one."  

......Haneline was bought and sold a few times not sure if they are still in business.....

*** I'm also now concerned about corrosion from the sender and the old gasket in the fuel tank.  Is there a drain for the gas tank under the car that's easy to access?  A way to "clean" the inside of the tank, beyond just draining?  

Just pull a hose and let it drain.... then inspect inside, So does your gauge work now with the older sender ?  To have a tank cleaned it's about $80. I would just buy a new  $150 tank  if the old one is questionable.

Yes, gauge works, but it's so corroded I don't really want to keep using it.  Unless I have to.  (I don't want to change out gauges)   

IMHO I would just resto the sending unit you have. The only functional thing on it is the windings at the base, the rest is just wire connections. Just lightly clean the crud and the electrical contacts ,or send it to me and I'll gladly freshen it up .    PM me if you want me to to do it w/a 1 day turn around including a new gasket. ~Alan

Yes.  Let the doctor cure your ills.  On this site,  Alan is one of the top individual speedster builder/repairers.  

Looks like about 15 minutes with a wire brush would get it. Then wipe with thinner or acetone and coat with something fuel-proof. Or maybe just put it back in bare.

Alan - I sent you a PM, and noticed you replied.  However, I can't read your reply: on Explorer, Chrome, and even on my Android phone browser, there's something going on with this site where I can't scroll down and read your reply.  It shows my PM to you and what I wrote, then it goes black screen after that.  Nothing to be seen in a reply.  So, let's take this offline: I'm going to PM you with my email.  If you wouldn't mind, let's exchange info by email instead.  I may have you recondition the sender for me, but if it's as simple as a wire brush and some basic stuff, I may just do myself.  

To all others, thank you very much.  Very helpful.     

Hi Bassplayuh,

as I know, there are only sender units in the range of 0-80, 0-100 and 0-180 Ohm avalable, which fit into the beetle tank out of the box-

so for me there are two ways to handle this issiue:

1st: you take a 240-33 Ohm adjustable  after marked sender. You will find this f.e. on ebay, just seach "fuel sender 240 33" there are a lot... The problem is, you have to improve a adapter by your self to make it fit into the beetle tank. I think it's possibe but a lot of work...

2nd way: You buy a original VDO sender for beetle with 0 - 180 Ohm (you also find this easily on ebay. This fits into your tank out of the box. Additionally you need a "fuel sender interface that converts the signal to the right Ohm range, like this: http://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn34

Hope my ideas help

cheers Jan

I just found my sender on eBay (applause).  It's made by Speedway, matches ohms, there's only one - and cost me less than $40 shipped.  Done.  

Thanks to all.  Had it not been for this forum teaching me that the ohms have to match, I never would have found.  But because I was able to narrow my search to 30/240 senders, and then just look at picture after picture, there it was.  

Thanks again.  Much appreciation.  

Regarding the gasket leak, I originally had a one-way vent on my tank that let air in to replace consumed gas.

However, when I filled the tank with cool gas that later expanded when warmed, the resulting pressure forced the gasket to leak.

The pressure not only caused a leak but it also caused the top of the tank to bulge up.

I took out the one-way valve and have had no leaks since. I put a loop in the vent hose and ran it up as high as I could in the fender well.