Fuel sprays out of carb

OK, you've got two identical carbs there......something having to do with the accelerator pump discharge tube has to be different.

Get a big mirror and a decent light and peer down the throats to see what's different. It could be something simple, like an obstruction to the accelerator pump stream, causing it to spray out.

Otherwise, is it running OK or becomes rough as you quickly increase RPM's?

If it's running rough, especially as just mentioned, it can sometimes be valve related and then one or more would have to be really out to puff back through a carb.

I would check the A-pump first.

Yes, what Gordon said. But also, are the valves adjusted OK?

If they are REALLY loose, you may be drawing more fuel than the engine can ingest on that cylinder.

I also wonder if you are missing the fuel enrichment/choke parts that Lane had a problem with on his IDFs. Had the carb top off lately, Bill?

Out the top vertically, or leaking/spraying out the side? Juncture of the carb top or is the fuel coming from the accelerator pump area. 

Out the top. Runs fine.

I've not done a thing other then cleaning the filters.

Bill, if you blip the throttle engine off does the fuel spray up? Or only when running?

Can you take a video and put it up on youtube?

Only when running. Just peaked down both throats and all looks fine. Fuel stream straight down. It's a lite mist up/out the top.

Will be adjusting valves and changing oil today. Fresh rebuilt 2110 with about 1500 miles on it.

That sounds like reversion. Which barrel, and what header/cam/heads do you have on it? 

Just took her for a spirited 20 min drive and she runs like a top. I do notice a slight squeak/whistle when I blip it.

I just recently added a s pipe to my A-1 and I'm wondering if back pressure may have changed...

Stan, It's #4. I will have to look at my build sheet for the specs later today.

Thanks for all the help you guys are giving me. Always something but she sure does run well. 

4s the short one on a sidewinder. It could easily be reversion. You don't have the CB "update" kit, by chance- do you?

Stan, not sure on the CB kit (carbs previously rebuilt)

Not sure what you mean on the shortside? 

Bill,

As I've mentioned before, A1 Sidewinders (as good as they are) have some compromises. The biggest one is that the primaries aren't even close to the same length. Number 4 is the shortest of the bunch by a long way. This generally doesn't cause any issues, but it may explain why this cylinder has a "fog" hanging above it.

The reason I asked about the cam is that if you have a big-ish overlap (and most hi-performance VW cams do), then there's a decent chance this is reversion. With such a cam, the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time for a good long time. Generally, a header will work as an "extractor" and keep the gas-flow through the cylinder moving in the right direction, even at idle. But if things aren't playing nicely, then the charge could get pushed backwards through the carb, and hang out as a fog above the throat under certain conditions (most likely at idle when the air-speed through the cylinder is not very great, and therefore the "extraction" is at it's weakest). At other conditions, it'll get sucked right back down the throat.

Perhaps it always did this to one degree or another and you didn't notice. Perhaps something changed in the exhaust that reduced the "pull" of the 4 into 1 collector (you mentioned a new "S" pipe, and a more restrictive exhaust would do this). Perhaps the header is too big for the engine (what size is it?) .Perhaps it is because the number 4 primary is a foot shorter than number 3. Perhaps (and most likely) it is all of these working together to make this happen. Exhaust tuning is more than just bolting on something that looks cool and hoping for the best.

You could likely correct this with longer velocity stacks if you can fit them inside the filter and under the deck-lid.

Just leaving it is less an option than it might appear- you are one badly-timed backfire away from burning your car down if you can't correct it.

I think this stuff is really fun, but it does cost money. I wish you well.

Intake reversion. Or as I call it, fuel standoff. Same thing. Yeah, I've got that, but on all 4, around the torque peak, at full throttle. That is the source of my main noise complaint, top up. I had one guy on here tell me it was pinging when it did that. Ummm, no, pinging sounds like a bunch of marbles being shaken in a tin can.  There are two reasons why I installed the CB turbo-hats. They muffle the noise, and also contain a possible backfire to some extent.

As usual, Stan eloquently explains it well.

Interesting that this only occurs on one cylinder on Bill's car. Makes sense with respect to the exhaust.

Stan it's a 2110 with Eliminator 2000 race heads, the FK-89 cam was replaced with a more streetable cam new specs unknown to me.

I'll pull the s-pipe and see if that helps.

I did some reading up on reversion and it sounds like reworking the heads is the fix?  

Would a "snail" (dual carb sync tool) placed on that one carb throat show less "sucking"? That would further point to exhaust or vacuum leak. 

Ha, I still have the old sync tool from my MG days!

We had all 4 synched with a snail a month ago. Today doing valves oil change,tap a temp sensor into the sump, pull the S pipe, change the oil and re-synch the carbs. Buy another fire extinguisher...

The last thing I want is a fire

I've only got an inch from the current stacks and the top of the filter.

How close to the top can you go?

How much room before you run out of room in the car, assuming you had a taller air-filter? If you've got the normal offset manifolds, you've probably got another inch at least to play with. They make taller air-filters. I'd leave about an inch of clearance from the air-cleaner top to the lip of the velocity stack.

But you don't need to go through all that yet. To test the "fix", you can just take the air-filter element and top off, and put some longer velocity stacks on in place of what you've got. If you don't want to buy longer velocity stacks, get some pipe of the appropriate size and use that for a stack. You want it high enough to get rid of the fog, or at least to contain it.

Wilder cams need longer stacks or intake or both. An FK89 is pretty wild. If this stuff doesn't work, you probably will need to get some heads that match your application a bit better.

Wow. That's not a lot of room.

adjusted valves and misting stopped. But I still have that little chirp/whistle sound at tip in and shut down. Will do a compression test and take it from there.

You want an inch to an inch and a half between the top of the velocity stack and the top of the air filter. Less than an inch and you're likely to run into tuning problems.

For the whistling, check for vacuum leaks first.