Does anyone know how to get the rust out of a fuel tank that has been sitting for a couple of years ? If i run my finger inside the fuel neck I can get a wet rusty type of mud on the top of the tank.
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Does anyone know how to get the rust out of a fuel tank that has been sitting for a couple of years ? If i run my finger inside the fuel neck I can get a wet rusty type of mud on the top of the tank.
I've had some good luck with a few "home remedies". but you can always visit the Eastwood site and buy the correct chemicals.
Of course, remove the tank first. remove the bottom outlet and the internal wire sock filter, and block off all of the holes except the big fill hole. Pour in a bag of rock salt, ice cubes and COLD water. Close off the big hole and roll it all over the lawn! Twist it, kick it, pick it up and do the Cha Cha with it! Really aggitate it good, then do it again. Drain it out and let it dry.
Next, fill it with lug nuts or a long chain (NOT rocks or gravel!!) add just a little water for the rust to suspend itself, block off the big fill hole and repeat the above aggitation, but for longer, then drain and let dry.
Finally, pour in a whole lot of toilet cleaner. Use the kind that removes rust and scale and such. Add very hot water and let it sit for a long time. Shake/move it occasionally. Then put the chain back in, seal it up one last time and do a little dance with it. Drain it out, hose it clean and let it dry in the sun.
Finally, you might want to add a tank sealer. I never did, but I try not to let the tank stay low on fuel for too long. I think that this is best anyway.
Or, just call eastwood . . .
Hope this helps,
TC
Of course, remove the tank first. remove the bottom outlet and the internal wire sock filter, and block off all of the holes except the big fill hole. Pour in a bag of rock salt, ice cubes and COLD water. Close off the big hole and roll it all over the lawn! Twist it, kick it, pick it up and do the Cha Cha with it! Really aggitate it good, then do it again. Drain it out and let it dry.
Next, fill it with lug nuts or a long chain (NOT rocks or gravel!!) add just a little water for the rust to suspend itself, block off the big fill hole and repeat the above aggitation, but for longer, then drain and let dry.
Finally, pour in a whole lot of toilet cleaner. Use the kind that removes rust and scale and such. Add very hot water and let it sit for a long time. Shake/move it occasionally. Then put the chain back in, seal it up one last time and do a little dance with it. Drain it out, hose it clean and let it dry in the sun.
Finally, you might want to add a tank sealer. I never did, but I try not to let the tank stay low on fuel for too long. I think that this is best anyway.
Or, just call eastwood . . .
Hope this helps,
TC
It may be time to bite the bullet and spring for a new tank. Piece of mind and less hassle.
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Chuck,
If you know there is rust in the tank; replace it now.
If you attempt to "Coat the Internal" portion of the tank you still have a pitted/corroded tank.
If the Coating starts to break down of if for some reason the tank starts "Weeping" Rust you will contaminate your fuel system. If the comtamination gets past the fuel filter then you will have carburation problems.
Cipl.com can provide you with a new tank and they offer a 14 gallon tank someone recently mentioned they had purchased. If you opt for a 10 gallon, then all you will have to consider is repositioning of the filler neck.
Don't fool with considering repair of the rusted tank, peplace it.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake
If you know there is rust in the tank; replace it now.
If you attempt to "Coat the Internal" portion of the tank you still have a pitted/corroded tank.
If the Coating starts to break down of if for some reason the tank starts "Weeping" Rust you will contaminate your fuel system. If the comtamination gets past the fuel filter then you will have carburation problems.
Cipl.com can provide you with a new tank and they offer a 14 gallon tank someone recently mentioned they had purchased. If you opt for a 10 gallon, then all you will have to consider is repositioning of the filler neck.
Don't fool with considering repair of the rusted tank, peplace it.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake
Will the cip1 14 or 16 gal. tank fit into a cmc-c widebody with only cotting the inner hood area???
Do yourself a favor and replace the tank, the slightest amount of dirt and you'll play havoc with the carb(s)and it'll never end Alan M
Aawwwhhh, come on guys . . .
Didn't ANYONE want to see Chuck doing the Cha-Cha around with the tank in his hands . . . ?
Yeah, they're right. A new tank is cheap insurance, especially with the high end carbs. A little spec and it's a major headache.
Remember that the outlet/filter sock/etc. also is best replaced now as well. They're cheap and you should do it with a new tank.
Luck,
TC
Didn't ANYONE want to see Chuck doing the Cha-Cha around with the tank in his hands . . . ?
Yeah, they're right. A new tank is cheap insurance, especially with the high end carbs. A little spec and it's a major headache.
Remember that the outlet/filter sock/etc. also is best replaced now as well. They're cheap and you should do it with a new tank.
Luck,
TC
I use two filters between the tank and carbs, one is mounted close to the tank and that one is a Chrysler "can" type that looks like an oversized sealed tuna can with inlet and outlet nipples .
The second one mounted in line by the barb(s)is the normal VW clear plastic style
The second one mounted in line by the barb(s)is the normal VW clear plastic style
I'm with Alan, I have a filter just before the pump up front and one in the back before the carbs. I may be in the market for a new tank also as I just cleaned the front filter, which had some crud in it. Toying around with putting a shut-off valve at the tank also. Either a manual valve I can control thru the front passenger floorboard or an electrical solenoid valve
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