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Mark

 

I just completed an update on my CMC by adding a 12.5 gallon gas tank from http://www2.cip1.com/ It required no modifications, fit right in, used a proprietary cap (add'l $12.95) and cost $129.95. While I was at it I replaced the mesh filter (got the all metal one), kit for the larger (8mm) outlet pipe w/ nut and washer, tank to body gasket and new hold downs. The whole deal was about $200.00.

 

I have to thank Wolfgang for the advice - worked out well.

 

Paul

 

 

good deal, I havent decided if Im going that route or fuel cell typ route, but it's good to know that taks fits nicely.how is the quality? where is it made?Im just not sure i want a steel tank in it unless it's coated for crosion inside.but that isant a problem just some extra $$.can you see if it was glavionized steel? and I may ad an exernal filler to mine,Im not real keen on filling in the trunk.I cant seem to not piss alover my fenders as it is.

Paul--congrats on the new fuel tank.  Did the gas gauge sender work---did you use the old one?

 

Do you carry a spare tire in your trunk?  I use one of the smaller "donut" spares and wonder if it will still fit in the trunk if I go with the larger tank.

 

Sounds like you are very happy with your choice---good going!

Jack - Fix a Flat (no spare). Someone once mentioned that is why you have road service - I don't. I have VDO (914) gauges and the VDO sending unit fits fine. I even bought a new VW sending unit that fit but didn't work with the VDO gauge. Went back to the original sender. Both line up with the holes. The sender has tabs that can be adjusted in or out to change maximum swing range.

 

Mark - I don't think it is galvanized inside but that is why they make ethanol fuel treatments. The '66 tank I took out was 47 years old and had no rust. Hold the nozzle pointing up, don't sniff the fumes and rotate at the last moment - I really have not had a problem when filling while sober. Who knows where it was made - the company is called California Import Parts located in Washington state and their warehouse and shipping comes from Vancouver, BC (I hope I spelled that right). Go figure.

 

Paul

Paul,

Can you post a link to the page at cipi website that show the tank and additional parts that you ordered.

and please confirm that it required no modification/cutting the corner off, shorter, etc..

i'm basically going to order everything and have it delivered to my mechanic to install...unless you think its a simple install to be done in home garage...?

Mark

 

Here is a list of part #'s:

 

    ACC-C10-2510           12.5 gallon gas tank          $129.95

    ACC-C10-2508          replacement gas cap          $ 12.95

    VWC-113-201-635-4   mounting clips                  $   7.96

    VWC-111-209-147-A   metal filter (German qual)  $   6.36

    VWC-113-919-133      sender gasket & screws      $   4.76

 

S&H extra - about $50.00 to Maryland

 

To get to web site go to www2.cip1.com

 

just enter part #'s for  description. It is not the smoothest operating site in the world but it works - fiddle around a little.

 

My tank surface was pretty smooth - not unlike the one I replaced. Maybe they are coming from China and are smoother than the ones from Brazil. Anything is possible.

 

Good luck

 

Paul

 

 

Originally Posted by MarkV:
Hi guys

I got the 12 gallon tank per your suggestion
It's too tall
Hood won't shut
Any other suggestion on where to get a smaller tank like the one I currently have?

I's sure Alan's suggest will wok to get it to sit properly.  Some folks have had to grind (Dremel) a hole above the filler cap for clearance.  The hood is double layer with a hollow void.  That give you maybe 1.5" more.

Mark

 

I feel bad that I talked you into trouble. Is the tank flange seating on the opening or is the interference below? I will have to slightly modify my decklid when I get home to have good clearance on the cap but it does shut now. Try to determine exactly where you are hitting.

 

I did have to slightly trim the corners on the front edge.

 

Oh it just occurred to me - did you place the tank with the filler to the rear? That is where it goes - it won't close if you put the filler to the front. The cap should be closest to the firewall on the passenger side. Hope this helps.

 

Paul

Mark-

 

That tank has clearly been modified. A section was cut out, and sheetmetal welded back in.

 

If it requires that to fit, then you'd need to match it on your new tank, and that would mean a trip to a good welding shop, and a couple hundred dollars (unless you have a tig welder laying around-- I wouldn't try to mig anything thinner than 16 ga unless you're really good).

MarkV,

 

I think you're right - no stock tank looks like that and I'd hazard a guess that most speedster replicas use stock tanks with no modification apart from the filler neck. 

 

The question is, what does that tank have to clear that's not in other speedster replicas? If it was cut and welded to accomodate something non-essential and easy to change (like a hidden humidor for smuggling Cohibas over the border) then maybe you could remove whatever that is and use a tank that holds more. 

On a VW that's where the tunnel frame head called Napoleon's Hat is.  On a VW it seems to sit back further and is only a inch or 2 wide.  Street Beasts made their own frame and that looks like their take on the Napoleon's hat.  It looks quite substantial so appears you will have to modify the tank's bottom.  DrClock/Alan M. has build an SB - not sure if he would recall any issues like this that he encountered. You could cut fiberglass out where the battery goes and install a fuel cell there.  It would be low and forward so would help weight balance - but potential fire risk in front of axle I'd think.

 

 

 

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