Is this something easy enough to do yourself?
How much does it cost to get done by a professional?
Any tips to make sure I don't screw it up? (ex. Is it necessary to remove the windshield first?)
I have the raw materials from Kirk at Vintage Speedsters.
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Re: the windshield. I can see that getting the snaps on the top of the dash might be tricky with the windshield in place, but I assume it can be done. You might have to drill from underneath the dash.
Hopefully, those more experienced than I will add their answers/advice/thoughts to your question.
Can you get a drill under your dash or is the support bar in the way?
I got a quote from an auto upholstery shop in the midwest for under $200.00 including placing all fasteners on the car and in the tonneau itself. First thing they did was check to see if they could drill up from under the dash on my VS and seem to think it wouldn't be a problem. The fasteners to the rear of the doors and around the back for the quarter tonneau were already in place. This was a couple years ago and I didn't follow up because we were moving.
Also check with marine canvas or sail makers if you are near water.
It is a simple do it yourself project.
Depending on the FG thickness in the area of the Tenex install you can drill the necessary hole/s by hand using a good drill bit with your fingers. I know because I did this on my Spyder and did 3 that way not an easy task but doable with time and care.
Due to all gauges etc going from under and getting it in the right place is very hard IMHO, easier if you can start the hole with you fingers have a bright light on top then when looking from underneath you can see the start hole though the FG then drill it if you have the room with a small drill.
Pete
crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:It is a simple do it yourself project.
How many times have we heard that one....?
Just watch out for those little brass thingies. 
Lol, I know. The simple things are the ones that sometimes boggle the mind.
right-angle drill attachment?
Such sharp wit, Bob!
Let's hope Lane reads this...
edsnova posted:right-angle drill attachment?
I'm not sure you can get one close enough to the windshield but you never know unless you try. Just make sure to drill perpendicular and not angled.
crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:edsnova posted:right-angle drill attachment?
I'm not sure you can get one close enough to the windshield but you never know unless you try. Just make sure to drill perpendicular and not angled.
What about using a Dremel?
I refuse to read this Al. 
For Lane:
There is a description in the CMC build manual which you have access to as a supporting member.
Look in Library under Resources at the top.
I used a dremel when I did mine. (and goggles, the last thing you want is fiberglass in your eyeballs)
After watching VS do my 3/4 tonneau, it really is an easy process. You have all the rear snap buttons installed as a guide too.
Start from the rear and work your way down each side ensuring it is pulled tight when making the next mark. Repeat. I would wait to install any new snaps or locks *where needed) until the rear is completely attached IMO.
Drclock's Tip of The Day...I've installed the tonneau dash snaps with the windshield in place from under the dash The first two times I did a lot of measuring and tossed in some luck drilled from under the dash . Since then, I found a much easier way by making a simple tool fitting a drill bit to a small socket using JB weld & used a 1'4" drive ratchet patiently drilled the 4 dash holes from the top side .
I drilled both of the holes for the snaps near the windshield center strut from below.
Just measure where you want them to be (both of mine are about 2" from the center strut rod and just on either side) and then re-measure from below, put a dot on the underside of the cowl with a Sharpie and then slowly drill the hole - I had plenty of room under there to get at it. Safety glasses and/or a vacuum hose near the bit is a good idea. Once the holes are in, I installed the snap ends using a 90 degree offset screwdriver - one of those you always get with a pre-sorted tool set but never know what to do with.
IIRC, I also have another snap on the edge of the cowl, an inch or so forward of the top of the door. None down the length of the door, and the next one to the rear is the first of the top snaps on the side of the cockpit.
I've never driven with the tonneau on more than the back quarter. Never thought I needed it nor did I want to damage the paint on top of the doors. Like Alan, I also have a clear 3M film along the tops of the doors, but mostly to avoid abrasion from the side window gaskets, when in.
When you all talk about 3M film, are you talking about these?
Yeah, that's the stuff, but I used scrap pieces from when my clear Bra was installed. Just cut a couple of strips to apply along the tops of the doors and that was it.
Never bothered with a "door edge protector" either. Never park close enough to anything to need one.
Great idea Alan! Wish I thought of that one, I wore my fingers out drilling 3 with just a sharp bit from the top with my fingers on my Spyder.
Pete
@Alan Merklin, @Bill Prout, @Gordon Nichols, and the rest of you all...
Why are two snaps necessary on the dash? Isn't the passenger side snap sufficient?
When you drive, it's unzipped, and when you park, the zipper holds it up front next to the single peg. Right? Why two pegs?
@Sacto Mitch was kind enough to send a few photos. What say the experts here?
Good point Ryan, I never thought about it...I guess, that's because that's the way it's always been done :~)
I'm getting it done right now and the interior team here is completely convinced two pegs is unnecessary. I just wanted to get some SOCers to weigh in before I drive off into the sunset under cover of my new tonneau.
I'm taking photos of the entire process for those that come after me.
Perhaps not when it rains. Lots of water weight could collapse it somewhat.
My last IM had two pegs just under the mirror, where the zipper closes up - one for the driver side of the tonneau, and one for the passenger side. If I remember correctly, every sports car I have ever had that used a tonneau had two pegs in that location.
I would not rely on the zipper to hold the driver's side closed tight enough when the car is parked outside.
You also need a snap at each end of the dash, just inside where the windshield pillar joins the dash, plus one at the leading top edge of each door. Plus all the other snaps needed, of course.
......and in rain with the full tonneau on the car, make sure it is parked to allow water to drain away from the dash.
Those two snaps enable you to drive with the passenger side tonneau snapped in place. This may be for those cold mornings (keep as much heat in passenger compartment as possible), or slight drizzle (keep your interior dry). 
Click on pic to enlarge....
I'd say go with four across the dash; not because that's how it's always been done but that's what works. And it just looks right. If you just use three the post on the dash will be to the right of the mirror rod. And if you don't have one to the left of the mirror rod the balance will be off and it will disrupt the visual appeal of the whole car. Mind you, it's a delicate balance.
mtflyr posted:Perhaps not when it rains. Lots of water weight could collapse it somewhat.
BINGO, we have a winner!
I travel with the passenger half buttoned up all the time -- except of course if there IS a passenger. That half is held by two snaps, one next to mirror, the other at the door corner, and this is UNSAT as far as I am concerned. The toneau flaps around way too much at speed. I figure I need two more snaps in between, and I have conscripted the Good Dr. Clock to show me how. I have heard a right angle drill driver is needed, but see above, where Alan has a better idea all figured. An hour and half ride up to Chambersburg is worth it to me -- if we can ever get our schedules figured out.
On my CMC the top piece on the door with the side curtain sockets laps over the top of the door so it holds the tonneau up about 3/16" above what would be paint (mine is gel coat).
I have a Tenax by the windshield post and another behind the door. I too have felt the need for some intermediate fasteners.
I cut some short pieces of tubing and I am going to epoxy a Tenax post into the ends.
Then I can drop these into the sockets to provide fastening locations without putting fasteners in the door itself.
@Michael McKelvey, do you have any pictures of that? I'm having a hard time picturing how you get 3/16" above the door.
Ryan in NorCal posted:@Michael McKelvey, do you have any pictures of that? I'm having a hard time picturing how you get 3/16" above the door.
The block shaped piece of wood covered in vinyl that is screwed through the door card with the holes for your side curtains is screwed on so it sits a little above the door's edge. This keeps the tonneau off the car body.
I have snaps along the door top to prevent chaffing.
@Ryan (formerly) in NorCal, I don't have one by the windshield post as I thought but I do have lots of other fasteners spaced per the CMC build manual.
The CMC pieces for the top of the door are fiberglass with a lip that fits over the top of the door.
