Any suggestion I keep getting gas leaking thru the top of my gas tank where the float is mounted thru the screw holes and sensor , have replaced the gasket and washers numerous times is there a permanent fix anyone can suggest as it is frustrating of gas leaking the smell and my carpet is soaked .
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Some Background? - Does the tank have an air venting hose coming out of filler neck? It relieves pressure buildup in the tank that if not there or open would cause pressure on the gasket. Are you maybe overfilling the tank --- gas expands quite a bit in hot weather.
In my case it was because someone had ham-fisted the flange screws to the point that there was a slight raised lip around every hole.
The cure involved finding a bottle lid about the same diameter as the flange to use as a sanding block and some 320 grit sandpaper. Rotating the setup like twisting a doorknob quickly revealed the raised edges and with a little work I sanded them off.
Once the tank surface was flat, I applied a thin bead of gas-resistant RTV (black iirc) to the tank and the sender flange circling each screw hole as well as the entire opening.
Then I put the rubber gasket on the tank and very carefully put the sender in so I didn’t disturb the bead of RTV. Finally, I screwed it tight in a star pattern being very careful not to overtighten it. All you need to do is slightly compress the rubber gasket so it spreads out the RTV. 4-5ft/lbs tops.
Also, I sure your float flange is equally flat.
Good luck.
thanks I will try it , I usually do not fill the tank all the way due to this happening in the past , there is a air venting hose off the tank filler , looks like the hole is extremely small , i will make sure it is clear , how big should it be ?
Extremely small is the correct size
@CAPTAIN wrote: “have replaced the gasket and washers numerous times.”
When you did a new gasket, did you use steel, aluminum or copper washers under the heads of the screws? And did they come with the gasket kit or did you buy them separately? I also prefer a cork/composite gasket rather than a rubber one, but that’s just me.
In the past, I’ve used aluminum washers with poor luck, the steel washers didn’t seal at all, and the copper washers worked just fine. You CANNOT re-use the copper washers. The design is such that the washers have to crush a little bit to seal the screw threads. Once they’re crushed the first time, they never seal right again.
I have used small rubber o-rings instead of the copper washers in an emergency and they seal, but the gasoline attacks the rubber and they’ll leak after 10-24 hours but they were good enough to get me home, 3 hours one-way.
The last gasket set I used was one of these:
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2433.htm
VW Beetle oil change kits come with copper crush washers that fit and work on the flat screws ...$5 you can't go wrong. I draw each screw down in an X pattern, then go around snugging another 1/4 turn then do a final tightening the X pattern again.
The fuel sender washers are nylon, as I recall.
Some gasket kits have the nylon washers, but IMHO, the copper washers work a LOT better. Plus, they make electrical contact for the sender.
Usually nylon washers except for the screw for the ground. There, copper.
Also, try to keep the car out of the living room, that will keep the carpet from getting soaked.
@356GS (Greg) posted:Also, try to keep the car out of the living room, that will keep the carpet from getting soaked.
LOL. My buddy just bought this turntable for his man cave.
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I dunno……
Garage turntables are so Y2K, yah know??? 😉