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How the vw gas guage works is a bit of mystery to me. Why does the the circuit need a "resonator" anyway ?? The senders variable resistor, operated by a float arm, makes sense. I think that is 0-80 ohms,, but is that supposed to be 80 ohms full or empty ?? I am not getting any continuity through my sender at the moment. Cheers, Alan
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All this info about VW fuel gauges pertain to just that... VW Bug gauges. They use the vibrators/resonators, not our gauges. Looking to abate the needle wagging of my gauge, I experimented with one on my 914 gas gauge with no effect one way or the other. The only thing that worked for me is the tube type sending unit for K. Ghias. The needle wags no more than an 1/8" which is WAY better than with the arm/float sender. The arm/float senders are installed on most builds because they are CHEAP(er). The tube type senders are a bit pricy at some retailers but I've found a few on Ebay that were more reasonable.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D211%2D919%2D051

~WB
Interestingly, my donor VW had BOTH a resonator and a ghia-like tube sender like Bill's.

And while my speedster gas gauge does, indeed, sway a bit with the movement of the car, you actually get used to it over time. I've often wondered if that gauge movement could be buffered with some sort of a capacitor circuit in there, but then my innate laziness took over and I just drank another beer. The gauge IS working, after all...... BTW: There is a patent (#4838082) for that very circuit, but I wasn't envisioning using op-amps and the potential for the capacitor charging and then arcing across the sender potentiometer (with it's subsequent gas tank explosion) didn't excite me. Maybe op-amps in there (and their minimal current needs) might be cool after all....

If you want your gauge to read more correctly (even though it'll still move around a bit), it's all in how you bend the float arm. If it reads 1/2 when it's empty, then the arm must be bent upward more at the "kink". It usually takes one 3-4 tries of pulling the sender out, bending it, seeing how it looks for a given tank amount and so forth and then messing with it again (and again, and again) until it's (more-or-less) right.

All this is because the speedster gauge reads ass-backwards to a VW sender so you have to bend the float arm backwards to get it to read right. It's probably due to Cambodian Kharma that the Ghia sender works right with our gauges (or Bill is the luckiest guy in greater Harrisburg, PA.)

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the resonator, but I WOULD get in there and do some bending to make it somewhat more accurate when sitting still and level, at least. Besides, Winter is coming and you won't be driving it as much and will need something to do to get you away from "Jersey Shores" or something equally time-wasting.

gn
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