You can easily set up that Crosley phone to work in your shop BUT, you'll need the T-Bar coin bank key and the phone service key, both available on eBay. AFAIK, the landline phone systems still work with mechanical, rotary dial phones (Cell systems are tone or digital pulse only).
This will tell you how to convert your phone for your shop. Just remember, if you're dialing out it will seemingly take forever to finish dialing......
Alan Merklin posted:You can shorten the tank neck your self by holding the tank inverted so that you don't get any metal filing in the tank. Remove the neck leaving about 3/4" out of the tank. Get a piece of exhaust pipe adapter and trim from both ends as it will be too long. Clean everything well using JB Weld to secure it in place. I have been doing this for some time now.
Why does he need the exhaust pipe adapter? Can't he shorten the original filler neck after he has cut it off, and then reattach it?
I think the adapter makes it easier for guys with no home pipe swager.
Todd M posted:Alan Merklin posted:You can shorten the tank neck your self by holding the tank inverted so that you don't get any metal filing in the tank. Remove the neck leaving about 3/4" out of the tank. Get a piece of exhaust pipe adapter and trim from both ends as it will be too long. Clean everything well using JB Weld to secure it in place. I have been doing this for some time now.
Why does he need the exhaust pipe adapter? Can't he shorten the original filler neck after he has cut it off, and then reattach it?
@Todd M - I ended up not using the adapter and had it TIG welded. If I didn't have the resources the adapter would have been the route for me. It keeps everything centered and robust if you go with something like JB Weld.
vdubuslife posted:Todd M posted:Alan Merklin posted:You can shorten the tank neck your self by holding the tank inverted so that you don't get any metal filing in the tank. Remove the neck leaving about 3/4" out of the tank. Get a piece of exhaust pipe adapter and trim from both ends as it will be too long. Clean everything well using JB Weld to secure it in place. I have been doing this for some time now.
Why does he need the exhaust pipe adapter? Can't he shorten the original filler neck after he has cut it off, and then reattach it?
@Todd M - I ended up not using the adapter and had it TIG welded. If I didn't have the resources the adapter would have been the route for me. It keeps everything centered and robust if you go with something like JB Weld.
I am confused because when I picture using the exhaust pipe adapter, the gas cap will no longer fit because the top portion of the filler neck that the cap screws onto is gone. What am I missing?
Todd M posted:I am confused because when I picture using the exhaust pipe adapter, the gas cap will no longer fit because the top portion of the filler neck that the cap screws onto is gone. What am I missing?
I think the idea is to use the adapter to join the top and bottom of the filler neck after it has been shortened and so avoid having to weld them together. That way you are still able to use the cap.
Yeah, as Al said.
ALB posted:Todd M posted:I am confused because when I picture using the exhaust pipe adapter, the gas cap will no longer fit because the top portion of the filler neck that the cap screws onto is gone. What am I missing?
I think the idea is to use the adapter to join the top and bottom of the filler neck after it has been shortened and so avoid having to weld them together. That way you are still able to use the cap.
So the diameter of the adapter is so close to diameter of the filler tube that they are a tight enough fit for epoxy?
Todd M posted:ALB posted:Todd M posted:I am confused because when I picture using the exhaust pipe adapter, the gas cap will no longer fit because the top portion of the filler neck that the cap screws onto is gone. What am I missing?
I think the idea is to use the adapter to join the top and bottom of the filler neck after it has been shortened and so avoid having to weld them together. That way you are still able to use the cap.
So the diameter of the adapter is so close to diameter of the filler tube that they are a tight enough fit for epoxy?
@Todd M - the OD of the adapter is close to the ID of the filler tube. It acts as an internal "sleeve" that joins the removed section. I could have done it with a piece of 2" OD metal tube.
At the bottom of the filler neck where it joins the tank there is a lip that will stop the tube from falling into the tank. If you have access to a TIG welder just cut off the center section of filler neck and rejoin the pieces. One note, if you have a cap with a logo you'll want to put it on and position the two pieces before welding. That would bother me having a nice cap that is not positioned right.
@vdubuslife - Thanks for the explanation. It was bugging me that everybody else seemed to understand, but me.
Todd M posted:@vdubuslife - Thanks for the explanation. It was bugging me that everybody else seemed to understand, but me.
@Todd M - you're welcome! when @Alan Merklin originally made the suggestion I didn't have a clue what he was talking about. It wasn't until I actually went through the process did I understand. This board is great, so many knowledgeable folks willing to share.
