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Gas Tank Issues

Michael McKelveyMichael McKelveyAnn Arbor Supporting Member
As some of you know, I have been working on my Speedster for as long as Wolfgang, about 20 years.

I haven't yet put gas in the tank.

Today I started to install my new Ghia tube type sender. After I pulled out the old sender I looked into the opening and saw that the sealer I applied many years ago is peeling off in big pieces.

I used the search and read all the messages that say "just get a new tank".

I would rather not for several reasons:

My tank is exposed and I don't like the look of the replacements with the corner chopped off.

The standard replacement tank has less capacity, about 8 gal. instead of 10.5.

The 16 gal replacement doesn't have the chopped off corner but I would rather not cut a hole in the underside of the hood. Also, there could be problems with the spare tire and the tube sender.

I have done some cosmetic things to the top of the tank and I like the way it looks.

So, if possible I would like to salvage my existing tank and have some questions:

How can I remove the old sealer where it is still sticking?

Who sells the best sealer, POR15, Eastwood, other?

Is it feasible to expand the tank on the underside on the right side? In front of the footwell the tank doesn't need to step up for the steering column on that side. Cutting an opening there would help with access to clean out the inside and then it could be closed in a way that provides more capacity. Expanding here, even with the deepest part of the original tank wouldn't affect the sender accuracy.

I would feel a little better about replacing my old tank if I could find one with 10.5 gal capacity without the chopped off corner.

Mike

1957 CMC (Speedster) in Ann Arbor, MI

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Michael McKelveyMichael McKelveyAnn Arbor Supporting Member
As some of you know, I have been working on my Speedster for as long as Wolfgang, about 20 years.

I haven't yet put gas in the tank.

Today I started to install my new Ghia tube type sender. After I pulled out the old sender I looked into the opening and saw that the sealer I applied many years ago is peeling off in big pieces.

I used the search and read all the messages that say "just get a new tank".

I would rather not for several reasons:

My tank is exposed and I don't like the look of the replacements with the corner chopped off.

The standard replacement tank has less capacity, about 8 gal. instead of 10.5.

The 16 gal replacement doesn't have the chopped off corner but I would rather not cut a hole in the underside of the hood. Also, there could be problems with the spare tire and the tube sender.

I have done some cosmetic things to the top of the tank and I like the way it looks.

So, if possible I would like to salvage my existing tank and have some questions:

How can I remove the old sealer where it is still sticking?

Who sells the best sealer, POR15, Eastwood, other?

Is it feasible to expand the tank on the underside on the right side? In front of the footwell the tank doesn't need to step up for the steering column on that side. Cutting an opening there would help with access to clean out the inside and then it could be closed in a way that provides more capacity. Expanding here, even with the deepest part of the original tank wouldn't affect the sender accuracy.

I would feel a little better about replacing my old tank if I could find one with 10.5 gal capacity without the chopped off corner.

Mike
Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
Hi Mike!

To your questions:

"How can I remove the old sealer where it is still sticking?"

Go get a box of 1/4-20 nuts at a hardware store - get the cheap ones - no need for stainless for this project.

Remove the tank, then remove the sender and block the hole, and remove the gas line and block the hole (a cork works ok here).

Pour in about a quart of non-flammable solvent, dump in the box full of nuts and start agitating the tank around, rotating it from time to time to get all sides. John Weyand strapped his to the rear wheel of a John Deere tractor and just let it rotate around for a while until everything was clean. Great if you can do that, or just shake and agitate until your arms fall off, go away for an hour then come back, turn it and shake until your arms fall off, then repeat for all sides. when it looks nice and clean inside, pour out the solvent and nuts (a magnet should help for those pesky renegade nuts), put an air hose in there running 20 lbs. or so for an hour or so to dry it out and then follow the POR15 directions (see below) to re-seal it.

"Who sells the best sealer, POR15, Eastwood, other?"

I like POR15

"Is it feasible to expand the tank on the underside on the right side? In front of the footwell the tank doesn't need to step up for the steering column on that side. Cutting an opening there would help with access to clean out the inside and then it could be closed in a way that provides more capacity. Expanding here, even with the deepest part of the original tank wouldn't affect the sender accuracy."

Sounds like a lot of work for, what? 3 quarts more capacity? You could carry a lawn tractor jerry-can for that....

J JohnWeyand
Mike, You could just strap the tank to the rear wheel of your garden tractor or any slow moving wheel, that is raised off the ground and with the tank strapped on, just let it tumble for an hour or so (with some kind of loose hardware inside). If the liner is white or light gray in color it is likely the tank liner that is sold by Eastwood. If it is, then it is dissolved in acetone. Try putting a small amount on the surface where you can see it and see if that softens the liner. If it does, then I would put in a quart or two and slosh it well and then find the hazardous waste dump! Good luck.
FM Former Member
The guy I built my car with used to use a generic section of steel chain to clear out gas tanks. About a 10' section, rusty or not, and we'd toss the tank to each other for a half hour a day, usually in five-minute increments between steps in unrelated projects.
He used about two cans of BraKleen in the tanks; sprayed the contents of two whole cans inside, just to loosen up the garbage.
Related work included the entire fuel line being filled with a solvent and blowing it out into a car-wash sponge or towel-filled plastic bag with an HP air line, just to clear any sealer or rust flakes living in it.
Maybe not the most technical solution, but I've never heard of one of his cars being stalled out because of a fuel problem.
FM Former Member
If you can't decide on the big box o' nuts, use a length of chain. I have one that I put a few random bolts through some of the links for a bit more aggressive scouring, but the chain alone will do. It's just easier to remove than a mess of nuts hiding in the corners and such.

First add some ice water and rock salt and kick it around the yard for a while. Add toilet bowl cleaner to the mix (removes rust, lime and scale from toilet bowls AND fuel tanks as well) and kick that around for a while as well.

Pull out the chain (no magnet required here) drain out the juice and hose it well inside with the hose. Put it in a position to drain and bake in the sun.

It REALLY does an amazing job of it. Personally I credit the rock salt . . .

Oh, if you run into anything else that needs the rust removed, use toilet bowl cleaner (undiluted) for that as well. It's works the BALLS ! ! If you wanna have some fun, put an old carb into some toilet bowl cleaner, it will dissolve into a gray smudge mark.

The stuff is cheap as chips and has a million uses.
Alan MerklinAlan MerklinDrclock - Elkins, West Virginia Supporting Member
Mike, I would install the above new larger tank, I'm sure that you'll anyways have dirt issues with the old tank that will test how good you get at replacing filters, cleaning out main - idle jets and cleaning out the fuel lines on the side of the road.
With the larger tank, you just need to cut the hood's inner liner so that the filler cap doesn't hit. ~Alan
Michael McKelveyMichael McKelveyAnn Arbor Supporting Member
I've thought about the larger tank but I am ambivalent for several reasons.

I don't like the idea of cutting a hole in the hood inner liner.

My tube type sender won't be accurate.

My spare, space saver on 4 1/2" rim, may not fit.

I would like the increased capacity, though.

I talked to the gas tank renu guy about enlarging my tank on the bottom on the passenger side. That would also give him better access to the inside.
Michael McKelveyMichael McKelveyAnn Arbor Supporting Member
Bill, it is hard to say. It seems like there isn't much left to do, but everything seems to take longer than I thought it would.

I am currently replacing my CV joint bolts. I bought the super expensive locking CV bolts from aircooled.net. They have a little piece that fits on the top after the bolt is tightened that prevents the bolt from turning. I discovered that the lock thing won't fit between the bolt head and the CV joint cover. I will have to grind down each of the 24 lock things.

As I described in this thread, replacing the gas tank sender turned into a major project.

The major things left are putting the engine back in, the interior and putting all the chrome bits and windshield back on.

Previously, having it done before Carlisle was my goal. Now, having it done for the Dream Cruise is the target.
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