I own a new VMC speedster and just did the 300 mile service.
The valve cover gaskets are cork. My question is are silicone gaskets better and where is the best site to find them?
I also noticed a small oil leak before the service. I may post a pic if it becomes an issue and have you folks put in your .02. Thank!
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The cork gaskets can seal well, but you have to replace them whenever you do an oil change. It's better, if you don't already have one, to install a sump cover with a drain plug in it so all you have to pull is the drain plug, not the entire cover. Like this:
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6671.htm
As for the gaskets, I was asking about those a month or so ago and someone told me to get these, from Wolfsburg West. I'm expecting them to arrive this week:
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/...t.cfm?ID=113198031SI
I've used them in the past and they seal really well.
@Gordon Nichols, you provided useful information but the original question was about valve cover gaskets.
Yeah, Wolfsburg West has those in silicone, too.
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/....cfm?ID=113101481FSI
But you're right, Mike - I was cornfused. I was much better when I was Hyper-Caffeinated all the time. 😉
Hey!
Look what came in the mail today from Wolfsburg West!!
Gordon/Michael… i was the guilty party who recommended the WW silicone valve cover gaskets. I have been running them for several years without issue. Love them. They are aeropasce grade high temp silicone gaskets. In my experience less prone to leaks/burps than the standard cork gaskets.
Lesson learned is that each kit includes two valve gaskets.
@Superuber posted:I own a new VMC speedster and just did the 300 mile service.
The valve cover gaskets are cork. My question is are silicone gaskets better and where is the best site to find them?
I also noticed a small oil leak before the service. I may post a pic if it becomes an issue and have you folks put in your .02. Thank!
You can get the neoprene valve gaskets at JBugs.
I ordered a set for my next valve adjustment but have not tried them yet. Based on the reviews, many say the work to prevent leaks. I'll give them a shot in a few months when I get to my valves. Hope they work!
I use Felpro gaskets, which appear to be a fiber reinforced neoprene kind of material. I stick them to the valve cover with red RTV after making sure the VC is thoroughly clean with brake cleaner, let that set, and then apply to engine. I apply a little bit of silicone grease to the exposed surface to aid in sealing and subsequent removal. I find these can be reused several times.
for the oil pan gasket, I'm using the standard OEM replacement and I find that I'll get a drip from the acorn nut. Do the silicone gaskets solve for this as well?
You have to replace the little copper washers under the acorn nuts --- use care in tightening as they can strip out if over-tightened.
I probably need to double nut on the inside. The stud spins on a few of them.
@WOLFGANG posted:You have to replace the little copper washers under the acorn nuts --- use care in tightening as they can strip out if over-tightened.
@cwazy1 posted:I probably need to double nut on the inside. The stud spins on a few of them.
If the case threads are good, clean and dry the stud and case threads. Install but put some blue Loctite on the studs first. All the studs can come out except the one with a nut holding the oil pickup tube in place.
If you have a lathe, it's easy to true the face of the acorn nuts where they seat. If you don't have a lathe, chuck the 10mm acorn nuts in a drill and sand them flat with sandpaper on some flat steel or thick glass.
As Greg(Wolfgang) says, use new copper sealing washers.
For what it's worth, on valve cover gaskets, I use the rubber-impregnated cork version if I can find it. Otherwise regular cork works too, glued to the cover with good old Weldwood contact cement. I go literally YEARS before changing them. With a clean and flat surface on the head and a tight bail, they DON'T leak.
You may need slightly longer studs if you intend to double-nut them. Often, those can be found at ACE hardware.
@cwazy1 wrote: "for the oil pan gasket, I'm using the standard OEM replacement and I find that I'll get a drip from the acorn nut. Do the silicone gaskets solve for this as well?"
Probably not.
If it is leaking from a single Acorn nut, one of three things may be happening:
1. The acorn nut is simply loose. Try tightening 1/8 - 1/4 turn and NO MORE.
2. The stud may be protruding from the case a little too much so that the acorn nut is bottoming out on the threads but is not really tight enough to crush the copper washer to prevent leaks. Crushing the washer seals against the two surfaces (plate and nut) by compressing to fill the space. Shorten the stud by screwing it into the case more, or:
3. You might have re-used the existing copper washers. That often doesn't work to prevent leaks as the washers are crushed to seal and once used won't seal as well.
It's been on my list to find a source for just the crush washers and then just get 100 of them to keep on hand. McMaster-Carr carries them.
For valve cover gaskets I've been lucky with the OEM type cork ones. I just use some grease on them and make sure both surfaces; head and valve cover are impeccably clean. For the sump it's a different situation altogether. It didn't leak when sealant was sandwiched between all surfaces (block, oil strainer and sump cover) but I try not to use sealant whenever possible and after the last oil change it started leaking. It sucks.
