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general setup

FM Former Member
I have read lots of topics on poor handling and running on the site . I have just spent time getting my Chesil set up and it runs and drives fantastic. If I could pass any advise it would be to get the car sitting level . Once I got that right the rest fell into place . Adding a front sway bar has made a massive difference to the general handling . When I first got the car I participated in the steering it went where it wanted to go . I have set the front tracking to 1/8 of an inch toe in and the rear wheels (IRS) level . Generally tightened everything with a nut or bolt attached to it on the suspension.I was getting to the point of despair with the steering but now its much better .

For the running I had all the normal backfiring and misfiring . I changed the distributor to one with a vacuum advance which let me weaken the mixture significantly and fitted electronic ignition and set it so it ran the fastest at idle without pinking . The twin Webber's were way out of balance again getting the idle circuit right and both carbs flowing equally smoothed out the running significantly . The linkage joining the two carbs had plastic bushes which when changed to metal ones showed a massive improvement . Im getting 35mpg (uk) . The performance is more than adequate out of an 1800cc motor .

If you were where I was dont give up little adjustments one at a time and you get there . I have been at this since January and now I am finally happy with the setup . Its been worth the wait .
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FM Former Member
I have read lots of topics on poor handling and running on the site . I have just spent time getting my Chesil set up and it runs and drives fantastic. If I could pass any advise it would be to get the car sitting level . Once I got that right the rest fell into place . Adding a front sway bar has made a massive difference to the general handling . When I first got the car I participated in the steering it went where it wanted to go . I have set the front tracking to 1/8 of an inch toe in and the rear wheels (IRS) level . Generally tightened everything with a nut or bolt attached to it on the suspension.I was getting to the point of despair with the steering but now its much better .

For the running I had all the normal backfiring and misfiring . I changed the distributor to one with a vacuum advance which let me weaken the mixture significantly and fitted electronic ignition and set it so it ran the fastest at idle without pinking . The twin Webber's were way out of balance again getting the idle circuit right and both carbs flowing equally smoothed out the running significantly . The linkage joining the two carbs had plastic bushes which when changed to metal ones showed a massive improvement . Im getting 35mpg (uk) . The performance is more than adequate out of an 1800cc motor .

If you were where I was dont give up little adjustments one at a time and you get there . I have been at this since January and now I am finally happy with the setup . Its been worth the wait .

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FM Former Member
FYI, in most cases, using an anti sway bar seems to make an improvement in steering and most noticable in body roll however in most cases, it add's understeer qualities. Granted, understeer (front tires plow no matter how much steering input is added) is probably desired by many but the car won't rotate if it's understeering. Oversteer, although more difficult to control and in general scares most people is a bit more desirable to make the car handle and get through a turn.

A neutral handling car is the best and can be achieved by an adjustable anti sway bar. For cars with a front anti sway bar: If the front is understeering then softening the bar will allow more body roll thus more grip and the car should turn better. If the back is oversteering then tightening up the adjustable anti sway bar will induce more understeer and neutralize the oversteer.

If you have a rear anti sway bar then it's reversed. In other words, if the back oversteers then soften the bar and if the front understeers then tighen up the bar.

Unfortunately, not many of the aftermarket anti sway bars are adjustable and the stock bar is definetly not adjustable.
FM Former Member
I used the standard sway bar with performance rubbers the red ones . Shocks are standard gas not very expensive but work well .

The biggest difference came from getting the car level and at the correct ride where it should be . I placed one set of castor shims under the lower beam . If you have bump steer then check the steering arms are not pointing uphill . I have used bump steer bushes which allow the track rod ends to sit upside down made a massive difference
FM Former Member
Additional to the front anti-sway bar:

The following-arm type front suspension of a VW chassis makes absolutely NO adjustment for suspension camber GAIN when cornering. In other words, if the body rolls, then the tire is no longer square to the pavement. Front tire contact patch is reduced. Cornering ability is reduced.

There are two things you can do to improve that cndition:

1) Rip out the front beam and install a fuly independent front suspension, the type with short and long A arms on each side. Designed correctly, that will give you a modern suspension design where the tire stays more or less squarre to the road surface regardless of body roll.

or

2) Put in the biggest front anti-sway bar you can. A large diameter front ant-sway will severely limit body roll, thereby keeping the front tire more square to the road surface.

Notice, at the top I said "additional"? There are other factors to consider before just throwing an industrial strength I-beam onto the front suspension. The rear suspension must compliment the front, tire size and intended use should be considered, shocks, et all, and alignment can be critical. Do lots of research. Enjoy!
Ron ORon O1984/2010 IM, B.C. Canada
I want my IM to handle well-so far I have front and rear aftermarket sway bars (yes, I wish they were adjustable like the bars on my street/track Miata), Koni adjustable shocks, decent handling tires, and a rear kafer truss bar. I've also gathered specs from various sources for an aggressive wheel alignment. Hopefully, through trial and error, I'll be able to set up the handling so my IM can keep up with my Miata buddies.
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