I am barely getting any charging out of my cmc generator. Do I need to remove the engine to get it off or is there a way to remove it without dropping the engine. I have heard of a way to remove the fan shroud but I am not sure how to do the removal.
I am relying on my go to forum for assistance again.
Thank you,
renfrance
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Yes you can pull the studs out of the case that hold the generator stand. Double nut the studs and back them out. You can then remove the four 10mm bolts, and the wiring. you can wiggle it out. It is easier if you have dual carbs. You may have to pull the intake to move it slightly. Sometimes you can just remove the deck lid hinge bolts and lift the fan shroud up and out. Replace the studs back in the case. Don't be tempered to use bolts
Tanner ,
thank you for the information.
Renfrance
Your very welcome. 35 years of fixing cars LOL
youtube is invaluable...everyone has already screwed up whatever ur trying to accomplish,,,saved my butt many times over..
Is there not enough room to get the fan and it’s mounting plate out of there without removing the alternator stand?
My Spyder is back-asswards and there’s plenty of clearance in there AFAIK
Thank you
Renfrance
Referencing attached pic (click on pic to enlarge), here is the method I've used to remove my alternator:
I've sequenced this procedure so that the Arrows used for labeling do not cross each other (which may get confusing). For your 1st time, this removal procedure may take 45min - 60min.
1. Arrow A - Remove (if applicable) the heater duct hoses from doghouse.
2. Arrow B - Release throttle cable from barrel clamp on throttle linkage. Pull trottle cable from behind doghouse to also remove (slide out) throttle cable tube (make sure to secure throttle cable behind doghouse so it doesn't fall out of reach from engine bay).
3. Arrow C - Undo and remove alternator strap from alternator and alternator/oil-fill stand.
4. Arrow D - Remove alternator fan pulley and fan belt.
5. Arrow E - Detach (-) negative cable from battery then remove wiring from alternator.
6. Arrow F - Remove the four (4) machine screws (or 10mm bolt head screws) from the fan backing plate. The upper left bolt/screw is also used to secure throttle linkage to doghouse (see Arrow B).
7. Arrow G - At the base on each side of the doghouse, there is either a 10mm bolt head screw or flathead machine screw that secures the doghouse to the engine tins on each side. Remove them making sure not to drop them as you do (cuz you know they'll fall into an area not reachable no matter how much you contort and swear).
8. Arrow H - Remove throttle linkage from carburetor trying not to alter adjustment on the connector with carb (perhaps wrap masking tape around the connector and threaded rod to minimize any movement).
With all these attachments removed, you should now be able to lift the doghouse up just enough to tilt out the alternator (still attached to fan backing plate and fan) away from the doghouse.
You may not have the tools to remove the large nut attaching the fan to the alternator (I think this nut is a 19mm), so you may have to seek assistance from a local shop. The fan will have to be re-attached to the new/replacement alternator with the nut torqued to 43ft-lbs.
To re-assemble, reverse method used in removal.
Hope you find this info useful! Good luck with your project. 
One thing I’ll add to those excellent instructions: When you put it back together leave the backing plate and the alternator strap loose until after you’ve fastened the shroud back down. And don’t put the belt on the pulley. When I redid my shroud it took quite a bit of futzing around with the backing plate and alternator to keep the fan from rubbing on the shroud.
Once you get the shroud tightened, spin the alternator by hand and you’ll hear the fan rubbing the shroud if it does.
In my case, it was a matter of tightening the four backing plate screws in a certain order, spinning to find a high spot, then tapping the alternator with the back of my hand until it cleared, then tightening a little more.
Rinse and repeat until the four screws are tight, then tighten the alternator strap. Then double check it. It took me 3-4 tries before I got everything tight and spinning free.
(One thing I’m looking forward to installing Andrig’s lightweight fan is that it doesn’t come anywhere near the shroud!)
I use a light amount of blue Loctite on the 36mm fan nut threads and of course the thick wave washer. ....Also found that three pulley shims between the back of the fan and the arbor works best for fan to shroud clearance. Inspect the fan to arbor hole for cracks or worn - elongated hole while it's apart.
i had a new 2232 done by Roland,,ran killer..after a few weeks it was making strange tinny noises..the big nut was loose and it rounded out the oblong hole and was spinning freely...think someone didnt torque the nut,,loctitie blue,is a +..Roland made good on an upgraded welded fan,,i did the mechanix..
Thank you for the advise on locktite
renfrance
