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George, I'm having my 2110 taken apart again and installing a different cam. I'm switching my Engle 110 for something else. My builder has recommended two cams; Engle VZ25 or 30 and Engle FK7. I know that with the VZ cam I can run my stock rockers and with the FK I have to run 1.4:1 or 1.5:1. I'm getting the 044 heads ported and polished (40 by 35.5) and am running DCNF 44s with ventures. Also, the motor has 8.3:1 compression and a 1 5/8" exhaust system. What cam and rockers did you run in your old motor? I'm leaning towards the FK7 with Pauter 1.4:1 rockers, but am also considering Auto Craft roller tip rockers, which are a bit cheaper. I'm looking for 140 to 150 hp, but I don't want to lose too much of my low-end torque. I don't want to have to take the engine out for a long time and I want to do it right. Recommendations? By the way, my builder has also recommended Pauter Vasco single springs so the guides can be left alone. Anyone else want to give their thoughts on the subject, it would be appreciated.
Ron

1959 Intermeccanica(Convertible D)

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George, I'm having my 2110 taken apart again and installing a different cam. I'm switching my Engle 110 for something else. My builder has recommended two cams; Engle VZ25 or 30 and Engle FK7. I know that with the VZ cam I can run my stock rockers and with the FK I have to run 1.4:1 or 1.5:1. I'm getting the 044 heads ported and polished (40 by 35.5) and am running DCNF 44s with ventures. Also, the motor has 8.3:1 compression and a 1 5/8" exhaust system. What cam and rockers did you run in your old motor? I'm leaning towards the FK7 with Pauter 1.4:1 rockers, but am also considering Auto Craft roller tip rockers, which are a bit cheaper. I'm looking for 140 to 150 hp, but I don't want to lose too much of my low-end torque. I don't want to have to take the engine out for a long time and I want to do it right. Recommendations? By the way, my builder has also recommended Pauter Vasco single springs so the guides can be left alone. Anyone else want to give their thoughts on the subject, it would be appreciated.
Ron
It would be hard to go wrong by using a Web Cam 86b camshaft, it's a good all-around cam for ratio rocker arms. This cam should give you good low end, mid-range, and probably (?) peak at about 6,500 RPM with your setup.

I would use Pauter Machine's "lube-a-lobe" style lifters and Aircooled.net's H/D aluminum pushrods. Definitely go for the Pauter Machine roller rocker arms in 1.3 or 1.4 to 1 ratio, the 1.3's might drop a little power but would be kinder to your valve train. Note that performance cams that use ratio rockers are a little kinder to lifter bores than performance cams that use stock rockers (different ramps).

Make sure your valve springs are up to the task. I would also suggest a boost in compression to 8.75 (91 octane) or 9.0 to 1 (93 octane). my 2,110 had 8.5 to 1 and I often wished it was higher.

(Message Edited 4/10/2003 1:15:55 PM)
Ron: I have an 86B in my 2275. The engine builder figured that I should have 180 to 190 hp. Those numbers seem a bit high to me but the car is quite quick. The engine starts working hard at about 3500 rpm and pulls past 7000. Below 3500 I probably have similar torque to your 2110. I have tried smaller venturis and an update kit for my Dellortos but they really haven
Bruce, before you rush off to buy a Quaife check with Jeff at Carquip - I had them put one of their GT torque-biased units in my new 901 5-speed and they may have them for VW transaxles.

The reason I went with the unit they recommended is that I have heard some disquieting things about Quaife units wearing "prematurely"? But this could just be rumors (hear-say onthe CLF); I have no first-hand experience, and it may be a problem that has been corrected (like improper heat treatment - check the warranty coverage).

ZF units were nice for their day (1960's) and can be set up to work at 50% or 75%. But, they tend to be racing rather than street oriented, wear their clutches on the street fairly quickly, and lose their setting. Barry Gibbs at IX XI Enterprises says that the ZF setting loss can be fairly high, like setup for 75% and at the end of the race have an effective 50%.

(Message Edited 4/11/2003 4:28:03 PM)
Ron, my ex-2,110 has CB "Super Mag" 044's with 42 in./37.5 ex. with match ported intake manifolds. They work very well with 48 IDF carbs and 8.5 to 1 compression through a 1 5.8" merged exhaust & 2 1/2" Magnaflow. Cam is a Web Cam 121/125 with 1.1 rockers but a Web Cam 86b with 1.3 or 1.4 rockers would work as well. This engine likes 32 degrees total advance.

(Message Edited 4/14/2003 4:35:15 PM)
I ordered the Web 86b cam on Saturday. I'm going with HD aluminum pushrods (is this smart?) and I'm going for broke and ordering Pauter 1.4 rockers (well, I want to play, so I guess I'll have to pay). I installed my new Pertronics in my very, very old 009. It was on a dune buggy that I bought in the 1980s...so who knows how old it is. Maybe it's time for a Malory from Air Cooled Net. I'm trying to explain (convince) my wife why "we" should buy the Malory..."what if we were on a deserted highway and the old, old, very old 009 breaks down. We'd be standed and alone". Yea...that will work! (trouble is...she's way smarter than I am).
Ron

(Message Edited 4/14/2003 9:26:17 PM)
While the motor is apart (again) I've decided to up the compression from 8.3 to 9.2:1. I thought this might be a good match to the ported and polished heads, Web 86b cam and Pauter 1.3 rockers. Didn't go with the 1.4 because I'm concerned about too much valve lift and Pauter is out of 1.4 rockers (for 2 months).
Ron
Ron, 9.2 compression will work well with decent gas & 86b, and 1.3 rockers will give you about 93% of the performance that 1.4's would with less valve train wear.

I'm using Pauter 1.3 rocker arms in my new engine with a Web Cam 86c if there's enough valve clearance but otherwise will switch to an 86b (on 144 LC's and retarded 4 degrees).
Different opinions about engines are part of what makes this forum interesting. However, all opinions are not created equal. Like most of our contributors, I write a check for an engine. Jake builds them for a living. Thanks for continuing to support our forum, Jake, in spite of a few know-it-alls. Regards, Jim
Well, if you had a Pauter rocker break in a performance engine the same can be said of stock VW rockers, Scat rockers, and Autocraft rockers. You can shot-peen, x-ray, and magnaflux critical parts but there are never any guarantees.

I've even seen a broken Carillo rod that was used in a normally aspirated engine that never revved over 7,000 RPM and did not experience detonation; needless to say, everyone was VERY surprised at that.

I had my new Scat forged chrome-moly 86mm ultra-light flanged crankshaft shipped to Bob DeMello to check out indexing on the throws, magnaflux for cracks, rebalance, etc. - but if it breaks at 7,000 RPM, "That's show business...".

I had an acquaintance that vintage raced a Ferrari 250 SWB Berlinetta coupe worth about $300,000. One day some track newbie asked him why he raced such an expensive car since he might be involved in a crash; the owner simply replied, "If I break it I'll fix it."

Good philosophy - if it breaks, fix it.
Ron, I hear you; if your budget won't take the heat losing a "built" engine can be a problem.

When I was about eight years old my grandfather told me to never own anything I couldn't maintain myself or afford to pay someone else to maintain. I think that was good advice. Yachts and light airplanes REALLY fall into that category (I've owned both) but it applies equally to our orphan replicars (no dealership network).

I don't have the time, desire, or a shop to build my own engines now but luckily can afford to pay someone to do the job right.
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