Richard,
The easiest procedure would be:
First, disconnect the battery, secure the front tires, and get prepared for HELL.
From the top:
Remove rear deck lid
-Find main wire loom and unclip it crom the fan shroud.
-Disconnect the wires leading to the positive coil lead, the two wires to the generator leads (unplug the Alt. socket if you have that instead), and the ground wire from the rear of the generator casing by the backing plate.
-In some cases there are wires going to the idle solenoid and electric choke, If you have them and they're wired into the main loom, un-plug them as well.
-Disconnect and remove the back-up light wire from the coil and the fan shroud clip.
-Any other leads or wires clipped to the shroud, of course, should also be removed as well.
-Disconnect the barrel nut on the carb linkage where it attaches to the throttle cable.
-Pull the metal tube/cable guide out of the fan shroud as far as you can and push the throttle cable into the guide as far as you can as well.
-From behind the shroud, loosen the 17mm nuts on either side, at the top of the engine case, near the top edge. These hold the engine in place so only loosen them slightly for now. Sometimes, depending on the year of the motor. the driver's side doesn't have a nut, but rather a bolt that goes through an insert. pressed into the block. This bolt is WAY above the clutch throw out arm and cable and heater tube and such and has to be gotten from underneath with a ratchet.
Raise the car up as high as you feel is safe, and high enough to get the engine out from under it. Get a jack up under the engine and up hight enough to contact and support the engine as well.
From the bottom:
-Disconnect the heater box cables.
-Disconnect heater tubes if you have them.
-Remove the two 17mm nuts (facing rearward, and threading onto the lower studs coming out of the trans, These hold the bottom of the motor in place.
-Reach up and pull the throttle cable out of the tube and free of the motor.
-If you need to, remove the bolt above the clutch arm that holds the motor in. This is way up at the top of the trans on the driver's side. It's a royal pain ! ! !
Again from the top:
-Now go back in and remove those two 17mm nuts holding the top of the motor in place. The support jack should keep everything "as-is" with them removed.
If the header needs to be removed to clear the body work, yoink it off now. Double check everything, just in case you or I forgot something.
OK, have someone pull the motor rearward and just a little side-to-side as well, while you roll the jack backwards and somebody else eyeballs everything as this is going on. You can even lift the motor up and down as well as side-to-side, all the while tugging it rearward. If all goes well, the motor will begin to separate from the trans as it rolls towards the back. Nice, nice.
Once the pressure plate engagement surface plate clears the input shaft on the trans, you can lower the engine and begin the pain-in-the-ass part of wiggling and walking it down and out the back.
That's it . . . I THINK ! ! ! Might have forgotten something big or small, but you'll find out as you go. Regardless, there's enough info to get you started, and SOMEONE will no doubt come up with an adjustment, alternative, or addition to ease the process.
Lots of luck! Sometimes it's a snap, sometimes it ain't. Just remember that as hard as it was getting it out, it's a much BIGGER pain to get it back in!
TC
