Getting an engine...

I have a 2000 VS...I sold the original engine - removing it with the help of the experienced buyer and his son. We got the car up on jackstands, lowered the engine onto a transmission jack, then onto the floor (on cardboard)...then slipped/tilted/pulled the engine out the back. So here's my next thing:
I'm alone. Never done this before, but I can handle mechanical stuff, pretty much. I have a 2110 with a Sidewinder sitting in a crate, ready to be installed. Do I leave the exhaust attached? Do I keep adding blocks on the jackstands until the rear apron's high enough to allow the new engine to ride atop the trans jack and simply slip under the car without having to tilt it?
I'd really appreciate a few quick pieces of advice.
Thanks!

Dennis wrote: "I'm alone. Never done this before, but I can handle mechanical stuff, pretty much. I have a 2110 with a Sidewinder sitting in a crate, ready to be installed. Do I leave the exhaust attached?

I have a Berg Extractor (header) system on my engine that I leave on when removing or installing. All I do is remove the dual mufflers because they're really wide and just plain get in the way.

Do I keep adding blocks on the jackstands until the rear apron's high enough to allow the new engine to ride atop the trans jack and simply slip under the car without having to tilt it?"

Wow - that would get the back end up so high I'm afraid it would become unstable and fall on you.

I use jack stands under the rear of the pan and get it up as high as 6-ton jack stands will allow. Then, I use a motorcycle jack and get the engine positioned nicely on it, then move it towards the car while tilting the top of the engine forward such that the fan shroud goes under the rear body apron first, then move the jack forward while holding the shroud tilted until things begin to clear (watch out for the alternator pulley), then straighten it up as it gets inside of the engine opening.

Once it's in there and sitting upright, I then go back and lower the car down to a "working height" so that the jack can get the engine up to line up with the tranny. I've found it best to raise the front of the car so that all four wheels are off the ground about 8-12" so that the transmission input shaft is more-or-less level - that makes it MUCH easier to get everything to mate.

Once you get the car back down and a bit level, you can just jack the engine right up and push everything together (with the usual pushing, pulling, jiggling and swearing until it pushes home).

I can get my engine installed in well under 45 minutes, including raising and then lowering the car for clearance. If you take your time and go slow, even solo it shouldn't take more than 1-1/2 hours.

Post if you need more info.

Gordon

Hey! Anybody near Chicago who could drop by to help Dennis do his engine install?????

Gordon - a ton of thanks!

I haven't put it back in yet, but, when I pulled my engine out to clean out the mouse nest I moved it out through the right side wheel well. That didn't require raising the car so high.

A lift and a transmission jack. are nice to if you have a friend with a good shop..

I can provide muscle and a some basic wrenching; but no mechanical advice as you can see from all of my previous post.


Marty G.

I have the sidewinder exhaust on mine, and I removed it when I pulled the engine. I would tend to trust Grodon's advice, though. If there is enough clearance at the rear apron with it on, just remove the muffler and have at it. As for the rest, well, I was fortunate enough to have access to a friend's shop lift and and other tools, so it was easy peasy.

Dennis,

Prior to trying the install (I'm assuming you have never done this). Is the clutch disc centered? Pressure plate torqued correctly? Little dab of grease of the input shaft?
Anti seize on the exhaust studs/spark plugs (thinking ahead). Just so you know (don't know if this is obvious) but the engines come out a lot easier than going in and when you are "just about there" and feel resistance it's probably the clutch disc splines and either a little rotation or rocking (depending how far off they are) will send it home.--Good luck.
One other thing---Take the keys or coil wire and tape a note to them that says
"no oil installed yet" or "check the oil" before starting. Many an engine has been ruined
because of this oversight.

I remember the days when installing an engine using a regular floor jack, not a motorcycle jack. I often started out getting it lined up by eye both left-to-right and then up-and-down, even though the engine was balanced precariously on the jack plate (isn't it interesting that Hans and Fritz put the oil strainer plate RIGHT where the jack plate wants to go??)

Then I get behind, grab the exhaust headers and start jiggling and pushing.

Usually very little happens at first, so I jiggle harder and push harder and then something happens - it usually slips a little on the jack. Other than that, not much, so I line it up on the jack again and start over.

I try moving it up a bit and try again. Jiggle, jiggle.....push, push....

Nothing.

So I then let it down a bit - what the heck - and try THAT level.

Lots of jiggling and pushing and grunting and straining and then.....

Nothing.

|>(

By now, I usually have elevated both my body temp AND my oil, er, I mean, BLOOD pressure.

I raise it up to the original height and jiggle the hell out of it while grunting and straining and FINALLY it pushes in - all but the last 1/2", and only on the top - the bottom is all the way in.

So I raise it up just a little bit and try jiggling and pushing and grunting all over again and then......

The damn thing works it's way back OUT!!!!!!!

!@#$%^ and +*)&^%!! SCREW THIS!!!! I'm gonna get a beer!

So then I have a Guinness and sit there glaring at the damn thing until my head stops pounding and my blood pressure comes down again. Usually about this time, Kathy comes in to see how things are going and I bite her head off and then have to feel bad about THAT, too...

So I line it all up, again, and start over, AGAIN......

Jiggle, Jiggle......Push....push.....PUSH!

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm............


This process often went through several iterations until if finally all fit together and I usually rewarded myself with another beer.

THEN.....good old George Brown suggested using the motorcycle jack.

Miracle of miracles!!!! It holds the engine level, no matter what!! You line the engine up once and it just plain slides in there!! I couldn't believe it!!!

Ever since then, that's all I use, even if I have to borrow one from a friend or neighbor. They're that good. We even used one at Carlisle on Lane's car. Bill Drayer is now a motorcycle jack convert, too.

All's well that ends well.........

Gordon
"Born again Motorcycle Jack Guy" from Beaufort

I have sucessfuly used a Cherry Picker engine hoist and a yellow tow strap, mainly because my son had one. Did the job all alone. You will have some issues with finding the correct balance point for the engine, but a little time will solve all issues. The engine is realy light compared to a V8. I always felt safe and in control, if somewhat frustrated by trying to line up all the tranny holes. Once aligned of course, the cherry picker easily slides forward to seat the engine into the bellhousing.

During the process I fabricatted two aluminum plates that bolt onto each end of the engine. The plates use engine mounting holes to attach and have small caster wheels on bottom for ease of moving and storage when out of the car. Fun stuff. Next time will be lot's easier.

I've only have been schooled in floor jack 101...(Class of 1960 something)

I still set the motor on a floor jack, once the motor is jack up and in range of the tranny, I crawl under the car to confirm that the trans to engine case gap is the same right and left, as well as up and down.
Place the trans in gear and with the alt. belt already installed, put a wrench on the alt. and wiggle it back and forth (this aligns the clutch plate onto the tranny main shaft splines) as you put forward pressure on the motor and slid it into place . ~Alan

Oh, yeah! I forgot about that rocking the crank back and forth to engage the clutch disk. (Damn! You always forget something!)

Very important...

But I always use my trusty 30mm box wrench on the crank pulley bolt instead of the alternator nut.

gn