Getting Jacked Up

Anyone have a recommendation for some sort of floor lift? I have looked at the Quik Lift, but I would prefer something like a scissor jack that allows me to remove the rear wheels without alot of gymastics when doing a valve adjustment. I recognize that I could use jack stands, but want something motorized, if not too expensive.

Brian
I have those drive on ramp things (Autozone I think). Drive whichever end up and have decent access to the underside. Less hassel than jack stands if you don't need to remove wheels. Valve adjustin' is a breeze.
HTH
Bill

Brian, Harbor frieght has exactly what you speak of in their latest catalog. Unfortunatly I misplaced mine, but try their web sight at harborfright.com Eddie

Eddie: I looked it up and if we are talking about the same unit, it holds 7,000 lbs. and lifts 70". Costs $2,600. In addition to the price, it would be overkill, since I will be lifting 2,000 and won't need more than a 24" lift. I am starting to see jack stands and floor jacks in a whole new light! Thanks for the help, however.

Brian,

Ye Kwik-Lift is a PITA! We Had one at the votech school auto shop and I convinced magt to get rid of it. The KW was always in the way , difficult to work on a car when on the ramps( banged your legs etc) The "bridge" that they sell you will not work with any bottle jack on the market. So the bridge (this is the hotizontal section that bridges the L and R ramps and is where the car can or should I say suppose to be able to jack a wheel off the ramp) ), must be refabricated . The only plus thing about it is that it is made with a heavy gauge steel and is not junk. If you ignore the "come on " pricing and actaully add up the components necessary , you can but a sizzor lift as mentioned in the previous posts.

Oops! I looked some more and found a $959.00 hydraulic scissor lift at Harbor Freight that lifts 6,000 pounds 39". This is alot cheaper than the Qwik Lift and not that much more than a good floor jack and jack stands, especially if you shop at Griot's Garage (I just got their catalog and can't believe the prices).

Brian, that's the one I was talking about. I use ramps at the moment, but thought that lift looked pretty good. I have an alum. jack and stands for the "tires off" stuff. Eddie

Eddie,
One caveat: It is shown as operating on 220V, but only draws 6-8 amps, so a 110V motor on on 20 amp circuit should handle it nicely. I am following up with them to see if they will provide it with a 110V motor.

A word of caution with Harbor Freight "You get what you pay for " applies here. I have not seen their sissor lift but would want to before I purchased one and had it shipped only to find it may be less that anticipated.

Alan: You make a very good point! The lift is made by Central Hydraulics and I have not been able to locate their web site (if the have one). In doing my due diligence, I noted that a floor jack they manufacture was top rated in one report. Since I live in South Carolina and Harbor Freight is in California, the logistics may be tough. Perhaps it would be cheaper in the long run to by something more local. That way I can actually see one before I buy, as you suggest.

In perspective, I have their aluminum floor jack and it's all quality.
so it's a gamble ....

Brian, what's wrong with a floor jack and jack stands?

Ron: Nothing wrong. I'll be honest...just looking for a new toy! We are all children, some are just older than others.

LOL, that would be a nice toy!

My wife says, I may be getting older but I can be immature forever. She smiles when she says it so I think it's a compliment...

You think it's a compliment...ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, cough, cough, ha, ha, ha....you get the point.
Ron

To close out this thread, I finally wound up buying a Bend Pak LR 60 from www.asedeals.com for $1,057, which included freight (extra if you want it to your door). The pictures show it lifting only about 8", but it goes up 29" in 35 seconds. The highest point in the down position is only 4", so my car clears it with no problem.

As you can see, you drive up the ramps and "straddle" to lifting pads, front to rear and side to side. It comes with 4 hard durometer rubber lifting blocks, which you can't see in the pictures. I had to improvise with some extra wooden blocks temporarily to get the height correct at the lift points on the car. Ideally, it would be great to have some sort of adjustable device that adjusts between 2 1/2" to 3 1/2", but lacking that, I will have some steel lift blocks made up with some shim pieces. Any ideas?

Its too early to pass final judgement on this baby. However, the price was right, operates on 120 volts and it is really well built.

Brian, that lift looks great and the price is certainly right. Let us know how the blocks work out and your overall impression. I may buy one based on your input. BTW, I like your Speedster, great colors, nice stance, and the roll bar looks perfect.

Jim

Brian,
Would you be willing to write up review for the site? Something short like the KwikLift review in the articles section.
-=theron

Jim: Thanks for the comments.

Theron: I'll be glad to if you think it will help. I would prefer to wait until I get the permanent blocks made up, probably in January.

Two questions:

1. Is there anything but the hydraulic mechanism holding up the car? IOW, is there any kind of redundant support for safety?

2. How do you get under the car with a creeper?

Bruce: There is a sturdy locking bar that automatically engages as you lift the car. As you can see from the rear picture the entire rear is open for a creeper. If you drive the car on in the opposite direction, the front area will be open.

I could have used this lift system last year when I pulled the motor and the tranny TWICE! Looks very nice, Brian.
Ron