Getting Trim Clips Tight

The studs are too short (or the inside fender well is not smooth/flat like a metal car) - once they are in the hole the spring nut gets pushed on tight (may have to pushed around the stud some.  You could grid down the fiberglass to make stud longer (be sure to seal it).

I put mine on with stainless steel screws and SS "nyloc" lock nuts on reverse side.  You can get the SS machine screws with the star-shaped security head or a hex head.  Tightening will indent the paint - maybe put double sided 3M tape on reverse to insulate it. (I suspect they come in gold brass if you want that color).  Check ACE HW or Lowes. 

Thank you. The studs are longer ones from Greg. Your point is still well taken. I want threads not a stupid clip.

Are you able to shape the badge a little with some manual manipulation and encouragement? The metal looks thick enough the pressure or tension from the clips doesn’t seem like it would be strong enough to pull the metal in.

Do you have plenty of access to the back side/clips? Get a friend to push the badge in while you hold a bic pen with the ink cartridge removed* over the pin to push the clip tighter. You’ll either tighten it or break the clip. If so, just replace it. Ace Hardware should have the right size.

* Or something similar that’s just large enough to fit over the pin.

For badges with built-in studs, I've always used a 1/4" drive deep socket to push these on, sized to catch just the outside flange of the clip.

But alternatively, you could use a slotted stainless bolt or a conventional aluminum rivet and buck the back side on badges with holes. If bolting it use nylock nuts, then it won't dent the paint or come loose. Make it just snug.

Or, just use pop rivets, it will be nice and flush. That's what I did with my Wendler badges.

Option is to use a tooth pick with a bit of JB Weld or similar.

@DannyP posted:

But alternatively, you could use… a conventional aluminum rivet and buck the back side on badges with holes.

Or, just use pop rivets, it will be nice and flush.

My Intermeccanica “builder’s badge” is affixed with aluminum conventional (blind) rivets. If I were doing it myself, I’d use long pop-rivets.

Thank you all.  I will keep fooling with it based on suggestions here.  I wish someone made rivet head bolts with regular threading.  They might be tricky to get tight, but it would be simple. @Robert M and @dlearl476 I will see if I can shape it, and there is plenty of room in the wheel well.  My next attempt will be using a helper and a tiny socket as @DannyP suggests.

FYI, I tried gluing the rear Porsche emblem and didn’t love the result. For the front I used the double sided emblem tape and spent the time cutting it perfectly with an exacto.  I liked the result, although it makes it look like there’s a gasket under.  Emblem directly on paint is the look I prefer, but I still like the tape better than glue.  Just my preference and experience.

I swapped the VMC emblems for Reutter from Germany, and I think the quality is worth the $$$.  They have a different color, the plating is smoother and they are heavier.  FYI, the Speedster ones have the holes in a different place so Greg did those and filled the holes.

I have still yet to get my project to the point where I'm mounting my Reutter badges, but on other projects using rivets, I have used a small zinc washer on the backside that has the same internal diameter of the rivet being used. This usually brings everything really tight, since the rivet has something to pull against. Hope this makes sense.