getting warm part 2

Bit the bullet and bought the bn2 NOS from Ark. The placement question is coming together. Just cut a 21"x9" rectangular hole in the rear bulk head of the body. Making a steel box to flange mount. Will then duct the warm air down to the existing floor ducting hooked to the accessory blower in the IM car, then block off the other side. Then a duct to re-route the cabin air back into the intake side and presto TOASTY warm plus an adequate defroster. Mocked up cardboard already in place and clears all parts behind. Will post pictures if anyone is interested. Nothing like a little progress to fuel some enthusiasm for a job.

I don't know if we're still buying this --- "it's my daughters car." That really worked on the wife? I'll have to try it --- always admired the FiberFab Avenger GT -- Ford GT40 replica -- for my son, of course, with a mid engine turbo Subbie engine.

I'm very interested, I have my refurbished (by me) bn2 and some of my own thoughts. My only concern with your plan (i.m.h.o.) is I think I'd rather have the heater up front. The further the travel the more heat you will loose. Just a thought. Do you have access to S.S. and a brake for your box? Good Luck either way you go I'm sure it'll be a huge improvement. Send the pics....

really is for daughter, have other stuff for me. as far as equipment fo the job have a rather complete shop including small brake, english wheel, mig, lathe, milling machine, and a drive in basement for body off restoration on these cold days... my idea of heaven is a project and some time to do it. thought about up front but there is so little useful space in the car that using useless space seemed like the only way to go.

AHHHH, the english wheel. I've always kept my eyes open for a local class on its uses.

A couple of questions Mike.

Is the bn2 like the newer Espar B1 heaters where the case does not get hot? If so, you can mount it under the dash.

Where are you running your gas line from?

Where are you running your hot exhaust to?

With the newer Espar heaters, you are told not to recirculate the air for the heater. They require a fresh air in, from outside the car. Not sure if that is true for the bn2's but probably is.

There are about 6 of us that have the Espar B1's in our cars now, including GB's. Henry installed GB's and Stan's. I installed my own, and have sold 3 systems to others who have also installed their own. As far as I know they are all mounted up under the dash. This makes for a nice clean install, is close to the gas tank and away from the hot engine, and allows easy routing of the inlet and exhaust.

bn2 does get hot, recirculating is not supposed to be a problem and should increase efficiency. The whole unit will be outside the passenge compartment over the trans. will tap off the fuel line as it goes past. hopefully smooth and easy. the exhaust will go straight out the bottom into the tunnel over the trans. I need a fair amount of heat as my daughter likes it really warm in the car. Answers should be forth coming shortly (with any luck). Pictures to follow hopefully this weekend.

I think the BN2 is almost double the size of newer ESPAR B1 from looking at the pictures. The BN2 was designed to go in front trunk area of the T1/T3/Ghias. Most of ones I've seen had recirculation vent as well as an outside air hose (to combustion chamber). The two air sources are totaly separate to prevent CO2 poisioning (outside air feed combustion and is exited out the exhaust.) The combustion chamber is double walled so the external housing doesn't really got hot (outer is painted) --- but the 1 1/2" exhaust pipe does indeed get hot and should probably be wrapped with foil covered insulating material to prevent scorcing fiberglass that might be near by. I plan to use the even larger T2 (bus/Thing) BN4 heater and it will not fit in the front trunk. I'll probably put it over the trans too. I'm leary of putting them in the front hood area due to gas vapors perhaps being present after filling up the gas tank (especially since filling is no longer thru an external side flap/door).

If you are going back there cheat a little to the passenger side. The drivers side has the rear hatch nitrogen lift and you might as well avoid it. Otherwise there is a fair amount of space and you should be nowheres near any fiberglass parts with your exhaust. You will need to be careful about the depth to the rear firewall and back of engine. It is only a little over 9 inches there.

I am one who was helped by Ron with the purchase and installation of an Espar. I have posted some pictures. With all the mechanical help coming from my brother-in-law and a great set of pictures from Ron, I now have real heat. I live just north of Columbus, Ohio(Go Bucks). I also have air!!!! and both are co-existing nicely. My b-i-l fabracated the bracket. Initially as shown in one of the pictures used flexible hose to direct the heat from the diverter to the pvc "Y" pipe. I have since replaced this hose with pvc elbows and hose ring fasteners. I have tons of heat and tons of defrost. I left the original heat runs from the engine and will ducts them out the bottom of the kick panels for mild days. anyone needing additional information is welcome to email me.

Nice job Jordan! And I thought getting my heater installed was tough. Doing an install while retaining the A/C is remarkable.

Mike, I know you are going to tap the fuel supply as it passes but you'll also need an
unobstructed return line back to the tank entering above the fuel level. If this return
is not plumbed right, gets restricted, blocked or other your heater will shut off.
Ask me how I know.

Bruce there is no provision fo a return line on the BN2. So I'll bite tell me a story before I screw up big time...

I've read that you need to drill top of fuel tank for the return line too. Look at BN2 picture in the link below --- isn't that the return line above the pressuure regulator on heater body (with no hose on it). Its center of picture about 1/4 way down from the top.

http://www.type2.com/library/heating/bn2matt.htm

Edit doesn't seem to work now -

I do have a late model BN2 (its not silver but a gun metal gray) that does NOT have that fitting -- so appears several versions of the BN2.

Maybe there is a different model. My models (I've semi refurbished two) have a fuel line
from the pump to the "injector/fuel nozzle". At that point there is a V shaped tee. One
corner of the tee threads onto the fuel nozzle, one end is the fuel supply from the pump
and the other is the return to the tank. While playing with my heaters and using them on a
"test bench" (read :table top) I didn't know what the return line was so I capped it using
my finger. This is actually a metered return with a fuel jet like orifice in it to regulate flow.
When this line was plugged the heater shuts off. Maybe yours is a different model that
doesn't have this return. Ask the guru you bought it from. My style needs the tee ported back to the filler neck as described above. Good Luck. Just trying to be helpful.

thanks Bruce, I think you must have the BN4 which is somewhat bigger and more complicated. I really do appreciate the thought. There is plenty for me to learn and relearn as it's been forever since I thought about these cars. I've been in the street rod and restored car world for about the last 20 years.

I have had the bn4's in the past. These are bn2's.

well, so far so good. the box is made, fitted, and installed. plumbing and wiring are next. will post pictures along the way. here are the first ones.

Mike, looks great, good luck. I know you're sick of me but if you don't mind one more thought. I'd incorporate a lip/dam on the "cockpit" side of your box and add(if it's not there
already) a drain fitting with a hose to the ground if any fuel leaks were to pop up. This way the fuel wouldn't run into the car and you would know if you had a leak at a quick glance
of the drain tube rather than unbuttoning your heater box. A/C.

have a back pitch and a drain in the back corner. Had the same thoughts as you.

great minds.........
From the pics it looked like it pitched forward. trying to help.