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Well the last few days have been an exercise in futility. I decided because of bad pedal feel that it was time to bleed the brakes. The rear drivers side slave nipple broke off so air got in the system. I bought 2 new slaves for the rear and had new pads so this was a good time to make a change.

Taking off the slaves is easy enough when the BOLTS come off but in my case on of the hard brake lines broke. So off to the auto store and buy a new one. $2.95 in parts and probably $8.00 in gas. Installed everything, the new slaves, pads and spring kit.

Tried to bleed and the pedal goes to the floor. Bleed some more, same. Hell this isn't the first time I've bled brakes. This car has new disc conversion from this spring.

Thoughts go to maybe needing to pay attention to the pad and star adjusters in the back. Tight then back off 1 turn. Will try that tomorrow. Then does the reservoir need a pin hole in the top? I have ben driving the car for 2 years without. Could it be the pedal rod? Maybe I adjusted it with the old brakes and am not getting enough travel? I will check that as well. Crank it so that there is about 5-7mm of travel B4 it hits the piston. OK OK...will all of this work?

Stay tuned.

1957 Porsche(Speedster)

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Well the last few days have been an exercise in futility. I decided because of bad pedal feel that it was time to bleed the brakes. The rear drivers side slave nipple broke off so air got in the system. I bought 2 new slaves for the rear and had new pads so this was a good time to make a change.

Taking off the slaves is easy enough when the BOLTS come off but in my case on of the hard brake lines broke. So off to the auto store and buy a new one. $2.95 in parts and probably $8.00 in gas. Installed everything, the new slaves, pads and spring kit.

Tried to bleed and the pedal goes to the floor. Bleed some more, same. Hell this isn't the first time I've bled brakes. This car has new disc conversion from this spring.

Thoughts go to maybe needing to pay attention to the pad and star adjusters in the back. Tight then back off 1 turn. Will try that tomorrow. Then does the reservoir need a pin hole in the top? I have ben driving the car for 2 years without. Could it be the pedal rod? Maybe I adjusted it with the old brakes and am not getting enough travel? I will check that as well. Crank it so that there is about 5-7mm of travel B4 it hits the piston. OK OK...will all of this work?

Stay tuned.

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  • bob
Big day yesterday. Raised the car once again on all four jack stands. The wheel bolts were all basically hand tight from the last time waiting for me to start. Took all wheels off and went to work.

Now the front was converted to disc already and now I had new slave cylinders in the back and new pads as well.

The first thing I did was change the steering coupler to a new 'urethane' one and wow what a smooth turn on the steering. The old one was cracked a bit and you could feel it.

Next look at taking off and changing the MC but that damn bolt to the rear line won't come off. Hell it's staying on for now. I needed to look at the pushrod. I backed it off to where it felt loose and went back in until it FELT like I was hitting the piston of the MC and backed off a 1/2 turn. OK that's done.

Now adjust the star nuts in the rear. Remember RIGHT hole UP is tight and LEFT hole DOWN is tight. Same on both sides. Boy that is great info to remember. OK that's done.

Took off the drums to sand them with a sanding disc on the cordless drill. Then painted flat black with brake caliper paint. I am buying time since Jos

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  • bob
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