Reinstalling my engine and looking for some vintage looking upgrade for my fuel filter and pump. What is everyone using? I have a 2.0 liter type 4 with twin Weber 44’s.
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Most will recommend a rotary fuel pump with a steel replaceable fuel filter. Not vintage-looking at all. Dependable and safe. I do have a couple of the glass filters with the chrome ends - nice to see accumulated rust but they can break and leak. Many still use the 50-cent opaque plastic filters --- just don't put any of the filters over the engine in the hot engine compartment!!!
Be advised that this is not what "everyone is using." What most people do is get what works best for the money, and call it a day.
That said: Malpassi fuel filter/pressure regulator. The 67mm Filter King (smaller version) is a good likeness of what they came with, if that's your bag. (This one looks ballpark too, and cheaper, but not sure how to mount to the firewall).
Here's the real deal's placement on the car:
vs.
Greg has your fuel pump. The originals were usually Autopulse 500s and those are not recommended for street use. The Facet pumps available today make a similar sound, but their reliability has been called into question.
The Malpassi's pressure adjustment can come in handy in case your fuel pump decides to fail. We're told that the typical failure mode for the rotary is to pump too much. The Malpassi will let you dial that back down to 3.5 psi.
Used/broken Autopulse pumps can be gutted (saves a couple pounds!) and gussied up to look like the original item.
I did that on my car and hid the rotary pump and filter behind them on the mounting panel. (In retrospect it's probably better to strap it to the beam under the gas tank).
Ed here has taken "replica" to whole other level of authenticity with his Spyder build. As to the filter and pump advice, all sound here. There are various filtering qualities (micron sizes) and smaller is better, I'd suppose. Also any such filter that might be sold as for car mfr X and Model Y will work just fine. They are not really make and model specific. I believe that ditching the plastic see-through paper filter that came with the car was one of several modifications I made to reduce (eliminate?) clogged idle jets in my Webers. another, just by the way, was to replace all the rubber fuel lines with SAE rated ethanol resistant ones.
Thanks Edsnova this is exactly what I was looking for. I guess there’s no problem pushing the fuel from the footwell to the engine?
also like your distributor mount. You have any more info on that? I have a similar set up with DTM on the way in a couple months.
El Frazo, thanks I’m replacing all my line with hard lines.
Jeff
This Malpassi regulator/filter is interesting. It has a metal bowl which is kind of authentic' (instead of glass) and a pressure gauge.
On my Malpassi regulator, I adjusted it using a separate gauge temporarily plumbed into the fuel line. Any time I wanted to check the fuel pressure I had to do the temporary plumbing thing again. I didn't know I could get the regulator with the gauge already attached. How easy that would have been.
If 'authentic-ish" looking is your thing. Unscrew the gauge and plug the hole after pressure adjustment. Still easier than temporary plumbing, and you don't have to go out and buy a gauge if you don't already have one.
But my guess is: You'll probably like having the gauge always on just for the sake or casually spot-checking the pressure.
Thanks Armani. Looks great. You also use an inline filter?
Damn, after seeing Ed’s pic, I guess I put mine or the wrong side! 
Actually , it worked out perfectly for me. I put the Filter King on the Pass side (connected to the Torsion tube with a couple of insulated cables clamps and shock mounts) in the spot where my battery was before I moved it up front and mounted my breather can on the drivers side (likewise with cable clamps) which fit perfectly between my roll bar tubes. (And yes, I straightened out the clamps after I mocked everything up and made sure there was clearance everywhere. There’s about 1/8” between the can and the carb linkage)
As for a fuel pump, I opted for a low pressure Edlebrock pump readily available from any little box auto parts store. Along with the highly recommended barb fitting pre-filter. My original fuel pump/filter were “secured” to the front beam with zip ties. 
Mounted to the front bulkhead with vibration iso mounts. (I got them from John @ Aircooled. Don’t know where to find them now) Not the quietest option out there, but I find the “hum” reassuring at start up, and once the engine is running it’s inaudible.
Looks like Pelican sells a version without the flats for $3/ea.
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@RS-60 mark posted:This Malpassi regulator/filter is interesting. It has a metal bowl which is kind of authentic' (instead of glass) and a pressure gauge.
On my Malpassi regulator, I adjusted it using a separate gauge temporarily plumbed into the fuel line. Any time I wanted to check the fuel pressure I had to do the temporary plumbing thing again. I didn't know I could get the regulator with the gauge already attached. How easy that would have been.
If 'authentic-ish" looking is your thing. Unscrew the gauge and plug the hole after pressure adjustment. Still easier than temporary plumbing, and you don't have to go out and buy a gauge if you don't already have one.
But my guess is: You'll probably like having the gauge always on just for the sake or casually spot-checking the pressure.
Sadly, the AN- version only comes with the metal bowl. (At least it did when I bought mine, otherwise I’d have used AN- fittings) It’s been a while but IIRC, the metal bowl version also uses a replaceable gauze/paper filter element vs the reusable SS one.*
I similarly have a little VDO rig that I made to check fuel and oil pressure.
* looking at @arajani pic I guess you can get the paper filter in a glass bowl version, too. I don’t think the place I bought my filter king from had those.
@edsnova posted:Be advised that this is not what "everyone is using." What most people do is get what works best for the money, and call it a day.
Maybe so, Ed, but you’re the ideal to which we all aspire! You and @arajani.
(In retrospect it's probably better to strap it to the beam under the gas tank).
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@Jsrrags posted:Thanks Edsnova this is exactly what I was looking for. I guess there’s no problem pushing the fuel from the footwell to the engine?
also like your distributor mount. You have any more info on that? I have a similar set up with DTM on the way in a couple months.
El Frazo, thanks I’m replacing all my line with hard lines.
Jeff
The rotary pump wants to push. It is said that the best option is to mount it close under the fuel tank. The footwell mounting I did has worked just fine, as it's an all downhill run from the tank outlet.
Thanks. I made the coil mount out of a piece of scrap steel. Thick sheet metal from either a Subaru, Nissan truck fender, or a disassembled treadmill (can't recall exactly which). The originals bolted to the trans using the trans bolts, but without a correct split trans, I offset mine slightly and bolted through the big lift hole on top.
Hard lines are good. Just use late model hose in those spots that need to flex.
@Jsrrags, I was not advocating the use of hard lines everywhere, although such could be done. As I recall, my old 356 coupes had hard lines and banjo fittings all around. I don't know of any premade metal fuel lines that would work on the replicas, although such may be available. If you're handy with a tubing bender and silver soldering, then one could go whole hog, I suppose.
Temporary fuel pressure gauge: I just plumbed one in and left it there. They make 'em pretty small, so no biggie.