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I have a strange engine problem. At idle, the engine runs very well. No coughing, no spitting, no backfiring. My CB Performance A/F monitor says it is idling between 14 and 15, which is almost perfect. When I roll on the throttle, it leans out slightly, then picks up. Again, no backfiring, popping or spitting.

But, when it sits at a constant speed, between 2500 and 3500 rpm, the needle drops to nothing. It goes extremely lean. I can let off the throttle or roll on and it jumps back to slightly rich. If I hold it steady, it goes very lean again.

I've cleaned both carbs thoroughly (44 Webers), adjusted the floats, replaced all the gaskets and checked for air leaks but can't find any. The only oddity is that the #1 cylinder isn't flowing as much air as the other three according to my snail guage. That was until today when I suddenly found a small film of oil by the #2 sparkplug, and I had a few drops under the car.

Could the cylinder head be loose, and could that be causing the lean condition at constant rpm? I'm going to adjust the valves again and will check the cylinder head torque then, but would appreciate any thoughts as to if that could be the cause of the motor going so lean and would appreciate any other ideas.

It is a 2187cc Scat "0" Mile motor. The stock oil temp guage indicates the temp is staying low, and the cylinder head temp guage is at 350 max, but usually runs 325 or just slightly higher. However, the engine only has about 50 miles on it.
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I have a strange engine problem. At idle, the engine runs very well. No coughing, no spitting, no backfiring. My CB Performance A/F monitor says it is idling between 14 and 15, which is almost perfect. When I roll on the throttle, it leans out slightly, then picks up. Again, no backfiring, popping or spitting.

But, when it sits at a constant speed, between 2500 and 3500 rpm, the needle drops to nothing. It goes extremely lean. I can let off the throttle or roll on and it jumps back to slightly rich. If I hold it steady, it goes very lean again.

I've cleaned both carbs thoroughly (44 Webers), adjusted the floats, replaced all the gaskets and checked for air leaks but can't find any. The only oddity is that the #1 cylinder isn't flowing as much air as the other three according to my snail guage. That was until today when I suddenly found a small film of oil by the #2 sparkplug, and I had a few drops under the car.

Could the cylinder head be loose, and could that be causing the lean condition at constant rpm? I'm going to adjust the valves again and will check the cylinder head torque then, but would appreciate any thoughts as to if that could be the cause of the motor going so lean and would appreciate any other ideas.

It is a 2187cc Scat "0" Mile motor. The stock oil temp guage indicates the temp is staying low, and the cylinder head temp guage is at 350 max, but usually runs 325 or just slightly higher. However, the engine only has about 50 miles on it.
Rod, This information is about all "carbs" and not yours specifically
but....You say at idle your a/f is good this means your idle jet and
adjustment is right for your engine combo. You say you richen when
you accelerate, that's great and the way it should be. This shows
your accerator pump or enrichment circuit is working properly(hence the no backfiring through your carbs during accel.). You say that your a/fuel mixture runs lean at constant rpm, it should be "leaner"
than your accel reading but not "lean". At constant cruise rpm your accel pump is out of the picture and your fuel being drawn into the engine is limited by the fuel jet size. Jets too small????

Did you post this question on "shoptalkforums", might be useful.

good luck!
Rod -- Here is a wild card for you. I have Dellortos, so I don't even know if it is the same for the Webers. One time, I took my carbs apart for "rebuild" and put them back together again with the auxillary venturis all in upside-down.

Ran great at idle and first blip of throttle. But trying anything constant over 2500-3000 was a no-way (because I only had idle circuit and acc pump, no fuel beyond that).

Maybe worth a look . . . .

Mark
Rod,
I just went through the same scenario with my fresh 2 litre type 1 with 44 IDF Webers.
It sounds like it goes lean at the transition from idle jets to main jets.
When it shows lean @ the 2500/3000RPM you mentioned, does the engine go flat to match what your guage is showing?

How are you jetted? Floats set correctly? fuel pressure, timing, all OK?
I was almost ready to give up on my Webers, when I got some help from John at Aircooled.net.
My problem ended up being Emulsion tubes. I got the carbs used and tried using the F7 emulsion tubes they came with.
As soon as I installed F11 emulsion tubes, the lean flat spot at the transition from idle to main jet circuit went away! I ended up, jetting-wise, right back where I started.
It runs GREAT! a little fat at Idle but no hesitation or flat spots throughout the whole RPM range.
Here's my current setup:
Weber 44 IDFs:
Venturi: 36 MM
Emulsion tube: F-11
Main Jet: 150
Air Correction Jet: 180
Accel.Pump nozzle: 60
Idle Jet: 60
Float: 11 MM @ closed
32.5 MM @ bottom stop
Fuel pump press: 3.2 psi
Timing (009 distributor) 10 degrees static or 32 degrees @ full advance.
My engine has SCAT C45 cam, VW dual ports w/lager valves. 40MM intake valve& 35.5 or 36MM exhaust valves. No port work, just blended ports to larger valve seats. 8.5 compression.
Heater boxes and 1 3/8 in Bug Pack extractor w/hide away muffler.

Greg B

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Mark, yours is a scary thought. They are brand new Webers so flipped venturis shouldn't be the problem, but I'll definitely check.

Greg,my setup sounds very close to yours:

Venturi: 36
Air correction: 200
Emulsion tube: F-11
Main jet: 155
Pump jet: 50
Idle jet: 55

Scat 20004 cam (equivalent of an Engle 100)
Same valve specs as yours (40x35.5)

Not sure of the compression ratio.

Running an 1 5/8" A1 Sidwinder exhaust and Magnaflow muffler.

Floats are at 10 and 32.5.

One thing that did occur to me is that the progression ports might be blocked since I've had problems with dirt in one of the carbs. I think that's the only thing I haven't looked at specifically, yet.

If it's not that, I suspect I'll have to go bigger with the jets.

I'm traveling the rest of the week and will be lucky to get to it next weekend. I'll let you know what I find as soon as I have the time to tackle the project.

Thanks for your help.

Rod,
Dirt in the carbs screws up everything!
I got something in my tank when I filled up at el-Cheepo gas n go on the way home from Carlise this Summer.
It took about 2 tanks of gas and cleaning the Idle and Main jets daily before it finally cleared up.
I added a BIG fuel filter (Alum. Canister type)at the gas tank and I have two Plastic see-through filters. I still occasionally get dirt in the jets.
After awhile, you can tell instantly when the Idle jets get dirt in them. Engine goes lean, pops out the exhaust and runs like crap until you clean the dirty jet.
Good luck,
Greg
I have a similar problem with my 911. Its got Webers and starts and runs fine but when it warms up it coughs and stumbles when cruising about 2500 - 3000 RPM. It seems that this is from one cylinder...passenger side towards the front of the car. Coughs and spits up through the carb throat.

Any ideas? Runs great at higher RPMs and when cold/cool.
Brian -

I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination - but I had similar symptoms in my old 911 ('68 2.0L 911S Targa later built to '70 2.2L 911S specs). After a thorough process of elimination, I discovered that I had overlooked the worn bushings on the carbureter throttle shaft. I took a stab in the dark and replaced the bushings (I think they have since gone to bearings) and my problem went away. This might not be your issue, but its worth a look!

Good luck with your trouble-shooting!
A quick update on my original post. I'm still waiting for gaskets before I pull the carb off. I'm going to replace them just to be on the safe side. So, I still don't know for sure what's causing the lean condition.

I do know what caused the oil leak, though. I have CB Performance "C-Channel" valve covers. When I pulled the cover, I found about a three inch strip had somehow broken out of the top of the gasket, which was the source of the leak.

One down, one to go.
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