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Go...no go...go

F french
So my tale of woe...

Beautiful day. Temp in the low 70's, no wind. Cruised out to my daughter's (60 miles)in the morning...mixed expressway and fast surface roads...my 1776 (?...actual displacement unknown) ran flawlessy...oil temp indicator right where it oughta be. My cooling system is what came with the car from VS (it's a 2000). I just had the timing, carb, plugs, etc gone through, 100 miles ago.
On the way back...doing 60 mph/3000 rpm...full tank of gas, btw...the engine coughed...coughed again...and I cruised to the shoulder with a dead engine. It'd start...rev and die. No leaks...and the shroud was cool enough to touch. No loose wires,either.
One flatbed and $150 later...pushed back into its covered parking space...it started right up and idled fine. I didn't run it for long.
Just wanted to listen for somethin' broken (this malady as it was "explained" to me, happened to the first Mexicrate 1776 the car had - "I think they said something about the camshaft"...).
So?
Vapor lock?
Electronic ignition module?
The ambient temp at the time, was 70 - and the gauge was showing the needle where it usually, ultimately goes...halfway point on the arc.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
1957 Vintage Speedsters(Speedster)
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F french
So my tale of woe...

Beautiful day. Temp in the low 70's, no wind. Cruised out to my daughter's (60 miles)in the morning...mixed expressway and fast surface roads...my 1776 (?...actual displacement unknown) ran flawlessy...oil temp indicator right where it oughta be. My cooling system is what came with the car from VS (it's a 2000). I just had the timing, carb, plugs, etc gone through, 100 miles ago.
On the way back...doing 60 mph/3000 rpm...full tank of gas, btw...the engine coughed...coughed again...and I cruised to the shoulder with a dead engine. It'd start...rev and die. No leaks...and the shroud was cool enough to touch. No loose wires,either.
One flatbed and $150 later...pushed back into its covered parking space...it started right up and idled fine. I didn't run it for long.
Just wanted to listen for somethin' broken (this malady as it was "explained" to me, happened to the first Mexicrate 1776 the car had - "I think they said something about the camshaft"...).
So?
Vapor lock?
Electronic ignition module?
The ambient temp at the time, was 70 - and the gauge was showing the needle where it usually, ultimately goes...halfway point on the arc.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
FM Former Member
several things to look at.

Fuel: Check your fuel delivery, fuel lines, strainer in the tank, fuel filters, and "fuel pump" If you have a mechanical pump, they have been known to create the symptoms you described.


Ignition: check an make sure the electronic point eliminator module is securely fastened to the floor of the distributor. Remove the module, clean the mating surfaces and re-attach using a drop of loctite on the screw. After checking the above fuel system, if it stalls again, slap in a set of points. If the car runs then the module is bad but for the most part, either the module is good or it's bad, no in between.

Another area to check is continuity of the 12 volt+ wire to the coil. I had a similar case with a customers car. Turns out the 12 volt wire, somewhere inside the loom, had been spliced and on occasion, it wouldn't deliver voltage. I added a secondary wire and that solved the problem.

FM Former Member
You also mention "carb" (as in single). If you get it to start now and duplicate your original problem, check for fuel at that point. Disconnect fuel inlet at carb, crank motor and check for flow into a cup/bucket. I don't it is the problem but is your tank vented properly(doubt because the first 1/2 of your trip was trouble free)? Good luck!!
FM Former Member
I've been down this road before. Here is what I think has happened

The stalk screen In the gas tank has gotten cruddy and is folding up durring the higher flow rate at 60 mph, and cutting off your fuel supply, It's most likely almost completely chokes off them and then unfolds when the pressure is low at idle.

Replace it, clean the tank.

OR remove the stalk screen and add a large line filter near the tank and forgo cleaning the tank and blow compressed air threw the fuel line just as a cleaning prcaution.

A line filter will be fairly easy to re service in the future.

If you have ran it much don't be suprized if the fuel PUMP goes next from a ruptured diaphram, Because it now has been stressed.

I'd replace it too, Just to save you from the future pump failure problem.

OR you can just keep a 13mm s wrench and a spare pump somewhere in the car in a ziplock bag. For when it does go. AND IT WILL!

beck356beck356
Dennis, you have described my problem exactly. I replaced my mechanical fuel pump and it didn't help. My theory is that the screen in the tank is blocked, but I have had no time to work on the car. Barry's post seems to support my theory. Not sure when I will have time to work on it. If you find that to be the problem, please post so I'll know for sure.
FM Former Member
I forgot the part number But Alan is exzactly right about the size .I do remember it's a common early 80s style GM car and truck filter. That should narrow it down for you alot.

Even if the problem is not in your fuel But i think it is. this is still a good upgade that heads off the probem by giving you a filter you can change easyer

I'd also head down to a lawnmower shop and buy a fuel shut off to put right at the tank thats also handy , whenever need to pull the engine. or change that filter it will make it very easy..
F french
Wow. An impressive bunch of responses, and I'm gonna check 'em all. My biggest problem, is that I garage the car 3 miles from where I live...and it ain't exactly a garage. A carless friend with an indoor, heated parking space under her condo rents me her space; great for parking, not so great for working on the car. Something as simple as draining the gas tank turns into a major exercise. This winter, the car should be back in a heated, real garage with tools close at hand. Plus, I kinda wish my little beauty hadn't restarted...might've made finding the source of the trouble easier to find. The thought of spending another $150 and waiting for the flatbed to show up...but I'll have a go. It'll just be slow...and I'll post the progress. Thanks, again! I'll be back.
JogyverJogyver
If you are worried about cracking the fuel lines, I would sugest replacing them. The ethanol in the gasoline will dry out and harden the older rubber fuel lines creating a high risk of failure. Inspect your fuel lines every year and replacement as needed. You don't want your car to look like the photos attached.
For added insurance I have installed a remote fire surpression system in my car. 90% of my fuel lines are hard piped. Sorry for the hy-jack.
Joe

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FM Former Member
Also might be a good time to check for any water in the bottom of the gas tank. Even small amounts of water can do very strange things inside of a pot metal Weber (and other brands also I would presume). Visual inspection of small amount of drained fluid from the main tank will easily confirm or deny presence of two different fluids. I've had some very bad experience in this area. And, YES, I did have to use the Auto Club (they stick you for extra fees for a "lowered vehicle", a "modified vehicle", and a few more).

Water is easily treatable with a 1/4 cup of denatured alcohol (Home Depot) in the gas tank, perhaps twice a year.
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