I'm Brian I purchased my wide body at the end of the season and am ready to have fun this year. I'm in the Hudson Valley area. Who are the go to people for information in my area. Thank you in advance
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Welcome to the madness, Brian. A trip to Carlisle would be a good start or you could search here for others in your area. Happy motoring
You can also find other members by using the "Members" tab at the top of this page, then choose "advanced search" (upper right corner) then follow the prompts and choose "list by map/geological" to see who's close to your location.
Parts from the Bug House in PA or Bug City in CT (or the West Coast suppliers, Like Vintage Motor Cars in LA and others).
Tell us what your car is (who made it) and we'll help from there.
And a couple photos for us that can't read! Show it off!
Brian, welcome to replica Speedster ownership, also known as 'The Madness'!
The pic of your car in your profile looks great. Please post that pic (the more the better) as attachments to your post on this thread. Show off that bad boy! 
"also known as 'The Madness'!"
When I first heard those words I was quite sure it was true but after a while you realize you have to be mad to keep going at times... your wife will let you know you are. 
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As you can see I need new rims to get the stance right. I'm waiting for the rim rep to come measure the offset and see what we can fit under this beast. I also just order a motor kit from Cb Performance. What a great bunch if guys. I'm just a little nervous of doing the assembly myself
I've used Ridler 15" polished aluminum wheels they have 4.75 back set 7" on front with 202 50 25's and 8" on the rear 225 50 15's.
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That wheel combo, with a stout engine (2,110 or larger) to push them, will handle better than any Cobra replica out there..... Been there with a similar set-up.
Never had the power of a 427 on the straights, but I always caught back up in the curves. Used to drive 'em nuts.
That's what I'm hoping for.
CB performance told me to track down a used brass gear for the engine kit I bought. Foes anyone have one for sale?
Alan, with the colour those wheels make the car look awesome and fill the flare nicely. Nicely done for sure. Do you have any other cars that you did with those flares and other wheels maybe our new 56WB might like to see some of your creations. I mean your nearly at 50 rebuilds/builds
Ridler wheels
A bit different
Ridler wheels
David Bayne's CMC " replica" chrome Fuch's
I polished and painted these Faux Fuchs
American Racing wheels
This is Ron Fish's car not sure what the wheels are
This is a IM classic body with mild custom flared added aftermarket wheels with custom machine centers ( I owned this car twice now in California)
VS super wide body 10" rear 8" front
Wheels on CMC - FF flared body as you can see there is room for quality Billet aluminum wheel spacers to bring out the fronts
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Nice, my vote.... the fuchs Pict 4
56widebody posted:As you can see I need new rims to get the stance right. I'm waiting for the rim rep to come measure the offset and see what we can fit under this beast. I also just order a motor kit from Cb Performance. What a great bunch if guys. I'm just a little nervous of doing the assembly myself
The car looks great! You don't 'need' new rims, but we'll certainly help you spend your money to give your car a new look if you desire...
What size tires/wheels are on the car now?
Hello again. Can I get some recommendations on wheel spacers w the studs in them. Thank you
Welcome to the madness. I have a Fiberfab Californian which is the same body as the CMC wide body. I have a Subaru engine powering my car. It is a NA 2.5L JE253 engine with variable cam lift out of a 2007 Subaru Impreza. Good luck with your Type 1 build. I didn't see it mentioned. What make is your Speedster? CMC, Fiberfab, other?
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Two ways of looking at spacers:
1. Go from a 4 bolt by 130mm VW pattern to a 5-bolt by 130mm Porsche or Chevy bolt pattern (Chevy is a different pattern spacing)? That requires an adapter to go from 4 bolt to 5 bolt.
2. OTOH, if you already have a Porsche or Chevy pattern and just want to move the wheel outboard while keeping the original pattern, you'll need a spacer. Those are sold in thicknesses from about 1/8" up to around 4" and some bolt to the hub with the original wheel bolts and then the wheel is attached to offset studs on the spacer. Or, they might require just longer wheel studs and a spacer to fit over them and then the wheel gets bolted on.
As Dr. Clock points out, there are a bunch of them out there so the only caution I would add is get something made of forged 6061 Billet Aluminum. Do not get a spacer made of cast Aluminum - they're no where near as strong as forged Billet.
I run a set of 4 to 5 bolt (VW to Porsche) adapters, all 1-1/8" thick made of forged Billet Aluminum that I got from Pelican Parts in Florida 15 years ago. Not cheap at $125 each but they work great. Looks like those in Alan's link are similar and a LOT cheaper!
Good hunting...
IaM-Ray posted:Nice, my vote.... the fuchs
I like the Fuchs too - though I was told told to go back to steel wheels and caps just yesterday.
Yeah, but if you go back to steel wheels it'll never look like this:
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Gordon,
How true. And that pic speaks of extreme attention to detail. Well done sir. Those Fuchs look like they belong.
RD
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Jimmy V. posted:Welcome to the madness. I have a Fiberfab Californian which is the same body as the CMC wide body. I have a Subaru engine powering my car. It is a NA 2.5L JE253 engine with variable cam lift out of a 2007 Subaru Impreza. Good luck with your Type 1 build. I didn't see it mentioned. What make is your Speedster? CMC, Fiberfab, other?
Wow. That looks great. I like your color so much more than my red. My body is a cmc
Gordon Nichols posted:Two ways of looking at spacers:
1. Go from a 4 bolt by 130mm VW pattern to a 5-bolt by 130mm Porsche or Chevy bolt pattern (Chevy is a different pattern spacing)? That requires an adapter to go from 4 bolt to 5 bolt.
2. OTOH, if you already have a Porsche or Chevy pattern and just want to move the wheel outboard while keeping the original pattern, you'll need a spacer. Those are sold in thicknesses from about 1/8" up to around 4" and some bolt to the hub with the original wheel bolts and then the wheel is attached to offset studs on the spacer. Or, they might require just longer wheel studs and a spacer to fit over them and then the wheel gets bolted on.
As Dr. Clock points out, there are a bunch of them out there so the only caution I would add is get something made of forged 6061 Billet Aluminum. Do not get a spacer made of cast Aluminum - they're no where near as strong as forged Billet.
I run a set of 4 to 5 bolt (VW to Porsche) adapters, all 1-1/8" thick made of forged Billet Aluminum that I got from Pelican Parts in Florida 15 years ago. Not cheap at $125 each but they work great. Looks like those in Alan's link are similar and a LOT cheaper!
Good hunting...
This site is so great. Thanks For the info. Alan's link is great. Thank you all again.
The rim rep is coming back later this week and once he tells my the thickness I need I'll be ordering
You know, you could just run custom rims with a lot of outward offset from the hub flange, if that would work for you.
Gordon Nichols posted:You know, you could just run custom rims with a lot of outward offset from the hub flange, if that would work for you.
Yes. Thank you. Using the adapters is the rim vendors idea. The additional price for the custom offset was ridiculous he said.