I probably ought to start another thread vs keep on with this hijack, but I do need to offer what else I think I know. The not-split trans case (Rhino?) is stronger than the split case and even if it is just the same strength-wise it allows for closer tolerances in manufacturing and closer alignments of all the stuff that goes inside, as I understand it. It does require assembling and tolerancing the parts on a jig before insertion into the case. It strikes me as a more robust solution, and where folks go to handle the higher torque made by larger engines than good old fashioned Beetles. [N.B., my engine is a 2332, so has a lot of torque.] Key phrase: "as I understand it"; these are things told to me by people who ought to know. I have no personal experience nor have I read anything by way of engineering analysis that would claim one way or the other. Mr Pip's opinion will remain as his opinion. I attach a picture of what all was deemed either worn, broken or no point in replacing since better or new parts were available. This included a main shaft from a Super Beetle, described as stronger than a "standard" Beetle type 1, and 1st and 2nd gears.
The statements I made are not opinion, they are facts.
Fact: ALL tunnel case transmissions require setting the shift forks in a jig.
Fact: All tunnel case trans cases are stronger than split cases. A magnesium Rhino case is stronger than a standard magnesium. All aluminum Rhino cases are stronger still.
Fact: All 1973 and up mainshafts are the same(including the "Super Beetle"). There is nothing "Super", stronger(except for 1st gear), or special about them. Nothing whatsoever.
Fact: Your trans guy replaced the mainshaft(and 1st and 2nd idler gears), ring and pinion(matched set, so a must), mainshaft bearing, and 3-4 slider and hub(which was keyed on your old one, most probably splined on your new one). And new synchros were installed.
It looks like the clutch cross shaft bushing and return spring were swapped.
And finally, the gear carrier. The gear carriers get worn where the mainshaft bearing goes. The replacements are not necessarily stronger, just not worn is what you want. It's a press fit. This gets worn from aggressive driving, max on-off throttle makes this bearing move in and out, fretting and wearing the recess the bearing sits in.
I don't see an old pinion bearing there, but I do see the large locknut for it in the lower right of your parts photo. ALL Rhino cases use a 4-bolt early style pinion bearing. So you don't have a Rhino case, you have a case from ~68 and up. If two side covers, 68-72. If single, '73 and up.
Lore and myth from the Samba must be weeded out, or it will multiply, promulgate, and be forwarded forever. Kelly, you admit that you don't know about transmissions. All you know is what you've been told.
All I know is what I see in your picture. And I do "know" what all those parts are, it's not a guess.
You can tell yourself that you now have a stronger "Super Street" tranny, but other than the later mainshaft and a new R&P that's really it. I'll assume 3-4 gears are and were welded and transferred over? You should be good up to about 200hp, as long as you don't abuse it too much.
Apologies to Jonr400 for the thread drift.
) over a 3-4 year period with the 1750 cc engine in it's last iteration (44 IDF's, W125, 40x35 heads, 6500rpm redline) and never broke the early mainshaft (maybe because I never had tires that would hook up?).
). Aside from drilling more holes into your rain-tray on the deck lid, fabricate a simple manner to lift your deck lid a few inches. Here is 
