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Hello everyone! Yes im a newbie and ready for my Speedster delivery in about a week.

Question is- Greg's 2332cc 145HP is a conservative build and I only intend to change the exhaust. Tiger's A1 is my choice. 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 is my concern. most of my recreational driving is freeway, but with such a conservative build sheet from Greg, is the 1 5/8 still the way to go.? or will there be sufficient increase in power with the 1 1/2.? Also, curious if anyone knows what size Greg's exhaust are from his new builds.?

Thanks oh knowledgable one's..

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So just heard back from Greg at Vintage as well. He says the ‘correct’ size is 1 1/2….
i may do weber 44’s through the winter, but not sure. I would never do anything more than the header and exhaust, along with the carb upgrade. I would upgrade to the 1 5/8 heater boxes as well.

But Greg is throwing me off with his 1 1/2 recommendation. I know he designed his 2332cc build towards bottom and mid range power, as we know the 2332cc can easily achieve more HP.

Nobody ever leaves these things alone. Mario is already spending money on this and it isn't even delivered.

An A1 is long money. Buying one that is borderline for the engine he's got just means he's got to spend it again if he does anything of consequence in the future. He'll lose nearly nothing with the bigger primaries, and gain a lot later if he puts in bigger carbs, a more aggressive cam, and/or bigger heads.

Last edited by Stan Galat

This header size chart (put together by James Beahm, published in Hot VW's 10 or 15 years ago) is considered pretty accurate for naturally aspirated VW street engines-         header tubing size

Depending where redline falls, either 1 1/2 or 1 5/8" primaries would be right for a 2332 cc engine.  Greg probably already has experience with Sidewinders on this engine size/combo, so it's probably best to go with his recommendation.

Orrr... if you're putting Webers on it (which will probably give a little better top end power and maybe even extend redline a wee bit)- have the exhaust built with 1 1/2" tubing right off the heads going to 1 5/8 will give the best of both worlds (the most bottom end/lower midrange possible and it will still run to the limit of the rest of the engine). (Imagine big evil laugh here- damn moderator's taken away the evil laugh emoticons!)

A1 will build it this way if you ask...

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  • header tubing size
Last edited by ALB

Thanks for the replys guys. 👍🏼👍🏼
problem is i dont know if im going deeper into mods with this car. Its just suppose to be an experience for me and an enjoyable cruise. I have a rocket in my garage already. But the passion with cars in me is hard to keep leashed.

My gut tells me the 1 5/8’s is right.
I love the idea of 1 1/2 off the block and 1 5/8’s to finish. I guess this means i wouldnt have to touch Gregs heater boxes? Assuming there 1 1/2’s… I need that heat I live on the west coast of Canada.

I'd find out exactly what heads are in that engine. Then I'd order CNC port-matched manifolds for your carbs if you can get them. Bolt-on easy for two or three hundred bucks.

That's a whole lot less futzing around with it, and totally worth it.

Last year, I built a 2276 for a customer with CB heads and port-matched manifolds. It runs very well.

@DannyP posted:

I'd find out exactly what heads are in that engine. Then I'd order CNC port-matched manifolds for your carbs if you can get them. Bolt-on easy for two or three hundred bucks.

That's a whole lot less futzing around with it, and totally worth it.

Last year, I built a 2276 for a customer with CB heads and port-matched manifolds. It runs very well.

I'm 99.9% sure they're Pancitos. Port-matched manifolds are available from CB.

Last edited by Stan Galat

Mario-

Those sure sound like Panchitos, and from talking with Greg (before Pat was building his engines) he was using Panchitos. Those heads have room to grow with the engine (as long as things are kept relatively mild). As it's not specifically spelled out, I'd call and ask.

I'm not sure he'll let you color outside the lines, but if he does - I'd ask if you can get a W120 cam (or similar) and a set of 44 IDFs on port-matched manifolds. I'd shoot for 9:1 compression (which should be easy if you're getting the CNC chambers on the Panchitos).

The difference those small changes would make would be astounding. It'd still be a very mild, very reliable build.

Definitely 1-5/8" for the A1 if you go this direction.

Last edited by Stan Galat
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