GROUP BUY OF WHITELINE FRONT SWAYBAR??

There is a cleaner solution

Yes...That was a pic of the alternate method that I described.  Is there anyone who could fab these horns for me if I paid them? and let us know which bar they used?

Thanks,

Mike

Open the PDF to see what is required for the build. By the time I was finished I had spent about $200 not including my time.

After completing my project, Dannyp did a similar but less complex installation on his Spyder. I believe that he welded the arms to the bar. Mine are splined.

Thank you for the file.  That's a damn good job with the plans.  Is that 5/8" bar plenty stiff?  And is it a night and day difference between the "heavy duty" bar avail in all the stores?

Also....If you ever felt the like making another...I would be happy to buy the whole "kit" from ya.

Thanks again,

Mike

IMHO the 3/4" bar is too much unless for Autocross, and the factory VW 12-13mm bar is not enough.

Years ago, before EMPI=China, EMPI made a 5/8" bar designed for the street.

A properly bushed 5/8" bar is the sweet spot. The bushings and bar size make it way stiffer than the VW free-floating design. I used black urethane bushings with grease fittings from Jeg's or Summit. I welded flat plates to the front beam, including nuts on the back side, then painted it all black.

Jim's spline design is really nice, but too costly for me. If I had a local shop that could cut splines, that's what I would have done. I used an early 911 through-body swaybar and cut off the ends. I had a local welder Tig the arms on, they are made of laser-cut 3/8" flat steel. Tig transfers less heat, I didn't want to remove the temper of the bar.

I bought the arms from a fabricator in Canada, don't remember the company name.

I used 10mm rod ends, one male and one female each side, and attached them to the lower shock studs. Works very well. I'm using the outermost of 3 holes in the arms.