Hard start / no fuel

From my simple understanding of the fuel line, your filter should NOT empty out after you shut off your car, that pressure should remain... do you have some sort of vacuum leak or line open that is venting/ open when you stop? You should not be having that problem with mech. pump... or ALL of our cars (with Mech pump) would take 5-minutes to start... Check your fuel line from front to back! do you have overflow tube on your gas tank? sounds like you might be creating a vacuum too. Again I am no expert here.. just common sense advise... Take it or leave it... Just saying! good luck... Remember mech pumps "suck gas" and electric pumps "push gas" that's why electric pumps are found at the front of the car next to the gas tank...

 

Speedster "D" sucking up the GAS again!

Check your oil.....  If it has gas in it, you have a busted fuel pump diaphram and will need to replace the pump....   This is assuming a mechanical pump.....   My .02...

Make it easy on yourself.  Your mechanic added a fuel filter.  You now have starting problems and a gas smell, both of which indicate a fuel problem.  Take it back to your mechanic.

It's actually going back to him tomorrow but real world experience is always helpfull.

The tank does have a vent and fuel line that comes out into the wheel well and makes 3 loops.  When I got the car I had the opposite problem and that vent line was kinked and created a vacume in the tank an the car died on its initial run.

They fixed the kink with better line and made the loops, added fuel filter and adjusted the carb.

How would I know if I have gas in the oil other than totally draining the oil?

Look at your dipstick for indication of gas.  Then stick it back in the tube several times, wiping each time on a shop rag.  Smell the rag.  Smell like gas? 

Also does the oil level read high.

A clear plastic or even glass fuel filter placed in engine compartment (between the mechanical pump and the carb) is a invitation for an engine compartment fire.  Have him replace cut line and move filter to under the fuel tank or over transmission (secure it in either place).

 

 

Always carry a fire extinguisher - fiberglass burns vigorously.

Up front, because of your 5 minute cranking,  it’s a fuel and electrical issue. Some stock vw pumps had a weep hole on the back bottom, letting gas drain onto the top of the block when ruptured. Not one of VW’s greatest designs IHO.  If you suspect gas in your oil, do the simple fire check. Pull the dipstick out, put a lighter to it, if it flashes (starts to burn and goes out) your answer has been given, bad diaphragm as stated; also gas smell well be present on the back side of the oil cap. If your oil does flame up…, I shouldn’t have to tell you – change it.     But I suspect this isn’t it.

 

I’d first like for you to contact one of these two gents. Looking at another one of your posts and seeing your 33458 zip, along with “JB Bugs”, Paul’s shop in Jensen Beach, Fl. being noted. I don’t know what you’ve had done since your post from back in May. But if Paul is too far to drive, you can contact “The 901 SHOP” in Stuart, Fl. – Scott’s the person there. All three of us know each other; Scott and Paul have raced VW’s together for a number of years and both are good people.

 

I’m hearing my wife in my head saying to me that my veins run VW blood. But after just a quick glance at one of your posted pictures of your engine and seeing that you’ve got the idle screw in, in your 34-pict carburetor and it’s sitting on the stair steps of the choke and an idle circuit cutoff and a pigtail wire that disappears out of site to the electric choke.

 

Wow…, where do I start…

 

I don’t know your comfort level in motors to give you a technical answer that you’d be able to take care of yourself.

 

But…, I decided to give you an answer as though you were one of my VW racing acquaintances that was somewhat versed in engines. So If I lose you, just slow me down and re-ask me. I’ll be glad to help, it will cost you a cold drink and a hand shake should we meet up sometime. Your one of the Speedster family and I live up the street from you in Ft. Pierce…, just ask me!

 

Before you ask, no this isn’t what I do for a living; it’s just a passion for all things mechanical, especially ACVW.  

 

Looking at the engine on the left side of carb: Pull your electric wire off your idle circuit shut off (Silver thingy size of your thumb) turn your key or power switch on. Check the wire for power / scratch the side of the carb (should spark) with the wire and also thumb the wire across the solenoid pigtail, should be a noticeable plunger click.  Well assume it does! If not, could just be an electric power or ground issue..., since I don’t see the coil and not on the shroud.

 

The rest of this read is only for tuning, so if this clears it up don’t mess with it.

 

Next, remove air cleaner if you haven’t already. Right side carb looking at motor - Loosen the three screws that hold the choke and rotate the choke butterfly open. Chances are, you’re not going joy riding in the snow, so try it without it. Please reinstall air cleaner before tuning.

Looking at the engine – face of the carburetor:  Back the Idle screw out of the accelerator arm so it doesn’t touch bottom. Better yet, take it out completely! This screw was meant to work with the choke and not to set your idle by.

 

Looking at the engine on the left side of carb: You see two screws, small ¼” head – Volume Control circuit, 1/2” head – Bypass / Idle Speed circuit.

 

Lightly Bottom the Volume Ctrl screw and take it out 3 turns – it’s the small one. (WRITE DOWN HOW MANY TURNS, TO PUT THIS BACK THE WAY YOU FOUND IT – BEFORE YOU START)

 

Bottom the Bypass / Idle Speed screw, and out 9 turns – the bigger one.

 

In a perfect world, it should start right up, it well be idling at 2000+ rpm – turn the Idle Speed screw in to slow it down to 800+/- rpm.

 

Turn the Volume Ctrl screw in until the engine dies; back it out ¾ to 1 turn. The audible Vacuum signature will also go away as you tune the engine in as well.

 

- Without being there, this is my best guess.

 

Again, either Paul at http://www.jbbugs.com/ or Scott at http://901racing.com/index.htm

 

 

 

 

David     /     dd-ardvark

 

You are the man

Thank you guys for all your help.  Finally got it running right, fun to drive etc... But one major flaw.  Once I get home the gas smell it emits is unbearable.  I now leave the garage door open for 4 hours with fans running and the rear deck lid open... And that cuts the smell down to bare able.  The problem I now have is a pregnant wife and the smell makes her sick from inside the house.  It's not just her, it's really bad.  I lent it to a friend and he returned it early because he couldn't take the smell in his house.

I have the vent hose in front looped, tight seal on the gas cap.  The smell seems to be coming from the back (other than a hard left turn while driving).  I'm thinking the fuel keeps dripping into the carb once off which is why I also have a hard time starting it after it sits for more than 30 minutes.

Ideas?

 First replace the gas cap seal and make sure the tank sender is not weeping fuel.  Then I  would add a good vent line from the tank with a short rubber hose coming of the tank.  I have seen bugs with a steel line that goes all the way back to the engine breather and they put a Charcoal canister under the passage rear fender   with a hose back to the underside of the air filters on twins . On my solex brosol twin carbs they have  a vent  port over the float bowels on the carbs   A perfect solution as  VW did in the mid 70s on some of the carbureted cars and ALL the injection cars. They are out there and its not hard to add on, Use VW brake line for your steel lines, and VW vacuum hose for the connections The line ran along the pan edge down the side of the car and you can make the line straps out of Aluminum flashing they attach to the pan  bolts and the fender bolts on a bug. But you can improvise on the speedster body..  only hard part will be to find a bug canister .. But a canister from Most street cars can be  adapted.

 

 Also make sure you fuel pump IF mechanical is not leaking into the oil,, pull and check your dip stick,, for the smell of fuel..  that and check all fuel  line hoses should cover all your possible causes

I'll check the dip stick tonight.  The oil is pretty black after only 1400 miles.

So this vent idea.  I would run a new line from the gas cap relief under the body to the engine bay right under the air filter...?  Might be worth a try..

Is the pump mechanical or electronic.  You might have an over-pressure issue.  You might also have a float that it not properly adjusted, causing an overflow issue.

Mechanical , stock 1600

 if the carb is dripping ,you have a problem.It can and will kill the engine if it already hasent. fix the issue dont just blow it off (as your doing with the fans), fix the carb or replace it or get a set of empi hpmx 40 duels for it. You ,your car and yor wife will be much happyer.

Took off oil cap and it smelled faintly of gas... So I'm assuming I have a leak into there aswell?  Might explain why engine oil is black after 1000 miles of total driving.

Taking it to mechanic monday

Be sure your mechanic knows air cooled or at least is "old school"

He's VW only, j bugs....

I'm a little worries about the gas in the oil though

 A little gas in the oil is permissible. But you do need it removed ..    Check that car for any leaks even a bad steel fuel line is possible.  go over it good.