Hard to Shift

I'm having a hard time shifting into first, and sometimes second, gear, especially when I come to a complete stop. There have been a couple times it wouldn't go into first at all, even with me exerting a lot of force. I had to start off in second gear once, which is embarrassing if nothing else. I am clutching all the way to the floor. Any suggestions? v

I had that problem in my Beck. Found engine mounts had delaminated making the transaxle and engine move with clutch was depressed. *only if you have a cable operated clutch.

A quick check to see if that is your problem is to jump in the drivers seat. Cable operated clutch only. (*engine not running) Leave the shifter in neutral and push the clutch pedal in and out. Then try it with the shifter say in 3rd. If the shifter moves noticably when the clutch pedal is depressed and let out, then one or more of the engine/transmission mounts requires replacement.

I have also repaired the main transmission metal mount (mine was from a VW beetle, I think they all are on Becks). This cradles the transmission bellhousing (the metal bracket welded to the crossmember). I found some of the welds broken. I cut two angle iron parts and welded them to the bell housing mount on both ends to stop the mount bending forward. I did not have any problems after is welded this mount and replaced all my rubber mounts with urathane mounts.

Good luck

The Beck shift linkage should be looked at. A lot of people change this to a Brandwood cable shifter or a Jamar rod shiter set up. Does your car have a bent tube about 1" in diameter going back to the engine compartment form the shift box?

Also sometimes, the set screw at the very tip of the transmission where the linkage attaches comes loose and lets the shifter get out of alignment for proper shifting. One solution is to get the alignment of the linkage back into position, carefully remove the set screw and mark the position and drill a hole (an indentation) so that the dogpoint of the set screw holds better.

I ditched my Beck setup for a Jamar rod set up and it is precise and reliable.

Spyderclub has some past discussion about this whole issue there.

Pretty much something a lot of us have gone through. Tag - you're it.

Mike

Vicki,

I have a Beck with the Brandwood Shifter.

At one point in time I was having to exert a lot of pressure to get the shifter into 1st gear. It seemed harder to do from a dead stop. I foolishly ignored the problem and eventually snapped the connector on the tip of the transmission which attatches the cable to the transmission.

A call to AAA got my baby home on the back of a flatbed. Triple A is amazing.

A call to Brandwood got me another connector(2 minute install) and an adjustment of my clutch cable (The giant wingnut) got everything running smooth again.

Hope this helps.
Aloha,
Ken

Thanks to all for the comments. I am in touch with my mechanic about the problem. I certainly don't want to be towing Sypie in one day! KG--(you aren't the producer KG of Naughty by Nature are you?? ha). v

My Spyders all have the same problem shifting. These are not Factory made cars, I made them myself from Formula Vee's and a mold I made of a Factory 550. They all have a bent tube about 1" in diameter going back to the engine compartment from the shift box? Need some info on Brandwood cable shifter or a Jamar rod shiter set up. I have no idea how this works using cables. Need some help...where can I buy these shifters and how much so they cost, Thanks

Dominick,

I have detailed the Jamar setup in my pictures under the files section "spydermike". I even have a diagram with part numbers. Let me know if you need any other info. This setup probably cost $200.

The Brandwood setup is about $400 adn I think the link is www.brandwoodcars.com.

Regards,
Mike

Mike
Thanks for the info, printed out your Jamar setup. also emailed Brandwoodcars for their specs. Your photos are very impressive and answered lots of questions that I had, what can I say.....GREAT JOB MIKE. Whos sells the oval rear view mirrors, I could use a few. If you have any idea why my reply's double up let me know, I just hit "send" once and the message repeats itself.....Thanks again for you help, Dominick in Cancun, Mexico

Guido/John, On 1-19-04 you said you were visiting your friend who is a professor at USC, Why now all of a sudden is he attending graduate school??




posted 1/19/2004 6:07:01 PM
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Hi SpyderMike, Thanks for getting back to me. I will be in the LA area from February 11-16. I'm visiting a friend of mine who is a professor at USC. I will have my Spyder shipped out to California as well for that week so I can have some fun driving around in some warmer weather.(Its been very cold so far this winter in NJ.) If you would like to meet one of those days so that we could check out each others Spyders, it would be my pleasure. E Mail me at jfrattaroli(To-Email-Insert-@)paulmiller.com or call me on my cell when I'm in California. I'll e-mail you my cell #.

Hey you guys, I'm back from So California. I had a great time out there visiting all of Hollywood, Sunset & Hollywood Blvds & Universal Studios, Beverly Hills, Bel Air, Santa Monica, Malibu, Venice Beach and many more amazing & interesting places including USC Campus, where my friend teaches and goes to graduate school for his Phd. I even saw 2 famous people on Rodeo Drive; Larry King & Nelly Fritato. Neptunes on the water was very cool, SpyderMike.(thanks for recommending) Gladstones had better food though.

For some reason, driving my Spyder in warmer weather out in California, it was easier to shift gears. When I got back to NJ, starting the car up in Freezing temp. and changing gears was more difficult. I guess it has a lot to do with the difference in temperatures I think, Vicki.

Larry or Mr. Private Investigator "Jowdy PI", my friend is an associate undergrad adjunct professor at USC. He is also currently undergoing graduate school for his Phd in Occupational Therapy in which I will refer him to you because I think you need it. You have too much time on your hands pal, try minding your own affairs.

I think you should start your own sitcom: "Jowdy the nosy PI". Instead of driving a Ferrari like Magnum, you could drive around like a rat in your little Spyder.

PS: I inserted "teaches" in previous post so that my wording could be exact for you, Larry.

Guido/John,

Say what you will since it obviously makes you feel more important however, you've repeatedly proven yourself to be a liar and there is no denying that.

In addition, your sudden outbursts of profanity, bigotry, poor attempts at humor, sexist remarks and threats against other members may make you feel important but, those of us that recognize manic depression realize that you're both a danger to yourself and others.

The one thing I can't stand is someone that has to boast and fabricate stories to be recognized.

Your ability to tell a lie even when you don't have to has been proven by you over and over and is cause for me to believe that you have absolutely no self esteem and probably have no life.

So, if you feel the need to lie or belittle others, go ahead and knock youself out.

I'm not playing PI since you openly asked people to call you, you lied about your employment, you lied about your cars, you lied about your girlfriend, and the list goes on and on.

Just because you changed your log-on name doesn't mean you've changed.

No Larry, I did not lie about my cars. I do have a Vintage 550 Spyder and a 97 993S. By using "Guido" as an alious name, and having a picture of a girl from big naturals, you should have known from the start that I was joking around. But a dumb retired cop like yourself would try to make a serious issue out of it since you have nothing better to do.

I apologized to everyone in this forum for the use of profanity and unethical wording I chose to use in some posts and I feel bad about it. I am a Spyder owner and would still like to be part of this forum. I will not use any racial slurs or profanity of any type any more. Why don't we forget about the past Larry and concentrate on the future in enjoying to discuss all of our experiences with our 550 Spyders. Peace Brother.

Ok, what about the Ceyenne that you said was your company car???

Read your message below, again, I've copied it so you can't pull your usual trick and edit your mistakes.

And, If your last paragraph is for real, why are you again using insulting verbage by calling me a "dumb retired cop"

See what I mean???? You just don't get it do you???


""No Larry, I did not lie about my cars. I do have a Vintage 550 Spyder and a 97 993S. By using "Guido" as an alious name, and having a picture of a girl from big naturals, you should have known from the start that I was joking around. But a dumb retired cop like yourself would try to make a serious issue out of it since you have nothing better to do.

I apologized to everyone in this forum for the use of profanity and unethical wording I chose to use in some posts and I feel bad about it. I am a Spyder owner and would still like to be part of this forum. I will not use any racial slurs or profanity of any type any more. Why don't we forget about the past Larry and concentrate on the future in enjoying to discuss all of our experiences with our 550 Spyders. Peace Brother. """"

First of all, learn how to spell. It's spelled "Cayenne". Secondly, I do get to take a Cayenne home every now and then as a company perk as well as any other new Audi or new Porsche.

Its OK for you to critisize me by calling me a manic depressive & a danger to society(which I am not), but when I state my opinion about you, all hell breaks loose. Like I said, I would like a truce between you & I and lets start acting like adults instead of constantly trying to start and fuel a verbal war. Remember, you started with me this time.

PS: I copied your posts with correct time as well so you can't edit or change your wording.

OK, time for you to come clean, you said above that you get to take home a Cayenne

Dominick - the two sources for spyder mirrors I have seen are Dario at www.550spyderproducts.com and Russ at www.fibersteel.com. The mirror and housing on my car are from Dario - about $300 I think.

Mike

I though "Fratt911" was no longer posting due to his/her lack of etiquette?
I find him/her very abrasive and condescending.
I feel embarassed showing any of my acquaintances this webside/forum.
My wife saw some of the postings and said.."Are you sure these people aren't little kid?"

Hop i hav speld everything rite!!

p.s. John. Try changing your gear oil to Mobil 1 synthetic. This will help making shifting easier in cooler weather.

Heiko and others,

I'm pretty much done with Guido/John.

As far as I'm concerned, I've brought out the "truth" regarding his boasting, un-ethical remarks and fabrications.

If Theron is going to allow him to stay then I wish him the best and hope he realizes his mistakes and "starts over" with a clean sheet of paper.

Heiko, the main problem I am encountering is shifting from neutral to first gear. For some apparent reason it seems as though shifter has a hard time to go into place when attempting to shift to first gear & take off. Does anyone have any suggestions?

try lubricting the linkage at every point. Check the throw at teh noisecone of the trans - make sure the attachment from teh Jamar unit hasn't slipped a little. I just adjusted mine this weekend and now it is sweeeeeet.

If you have a hydraulic clutch slave, grab the clutch fork, and pull it towards the nose cone. You should have no more than 1/4" of freeplay. If you have more, adjust the slave via the adjusting nuts.

If you have a cable activator, do the same thing and make sure that the pivot points on the linkage are free.

Thankyou Larry. Its about time you try to help me instead of constantly criticizing me. Next time I drive my Spyder I will put your advice into consideration.

Thanks to you too, Spydermike. I think your right, linkage on bottom of shifter may need some lubrication. What should I use, regular oil? or do you recomend some other type of lubricant?

Vicky,
If you have removed the spare tire on your Beck (mounted aft of the engine) and replaced it make sure it is centered. I put mine back and it was shifted to the rear, interfering with the shifter mechanism at the nosecone of the trans, keeping me from finding 1st.
Hans

Wow, my first little posting about difficult shifting really got interesting! Took a turn there.

I haven't taken off the spare tire (but maybe the mechanic did for some reason when he was doing maintenance), but I will have him look at that first. But I think I'll get the Jamar part installed anyway. Seems like that's a better option than a cable system. However, you must know, I have NO IDEA what I'm talking about!!
v v

John: I still have my original Beck linkage (which is kind of vague). I am not sure what vintage uses (probably the better cable set up).

One thing to remember on beetle type 1 transmissions is that you have to be standing completely still (not rolling) to get a smooth shift into first.

The other suggestion is to clutch it and shift to another gear like 2nd and then going into 1st. That helps sometimes.

John, I just use all purpose grease (not that there is anything wrong with that).

I think Vintage uses the full Jamar set up.

Beck, in the past at least, used a VW stick, shift box and then modified the VW shift tube by bending it, putting a bushing int he engine end and then adapting that to the Jamare rear section. I replaced the front VW stuff with the Jamar front end and the shifting is precise. I documented this ordeal in the pictures and a diagram under "files" and "spydermike" if anyone is interested. I have driven Bert's Brandwood system and it is very nice as well. Both are an improvement in my opinion over the stock Beck setup if it is as I described.

Mike

Vicki, you sound convincing to me. I was buying into it all along until you said that you had no idea what you were talking about.

IF it is a Beck style like I am thinking, you already have half of a Jamar setup (the back half). You would just make the front half.

Mike

I am a goober

Vintage uses the full Jamar set up. It seems that when I press and release the reverse button, the shifter ball goes back into place and it's easier to shift into 1st gear. Is this normal?

John,

If you look into the shift box - which you can do at most VW or off road part stores that carry Jamar, you will see that hte reverse lockout plunger/button (for lack of a better name) is attached to a thick piece of metal that keeps the shifter from being placed in the plane of reverse. By pushing the plunger/button down, you move the metal out of the way and the shifter can be pushed a little more over to teh left to make the reverse plane. If you release the plunger/button while you are in the reverse plane, then the spring on it pulls the metal back up against the shifter and can cause it to hang up a little. So, either push it down again and move the shifter out from under it or put the shifter in neutral and move it side to side to clear the metal. If your was hung up, then you shifter was probably in the reverse plane and finding 1st would have been difficult.

Could explain you issue....then again...

MIke

Mike:

I have the full Jamar setup in my Beck.

I'm having some of the same balky shifting problems others have described here, but to be frank, don't want to start loosening nuts, bolts, and screws without a little more knowledge.

Quoting your 2/22 post..."I just adjusted mine this weekend and now it is sweeeeeet."

Question:
Is there a procedure for "adjusting" the Jamar shifter?

It seems logical that there would be a starting point in the adjustment process...Perhaps selecting a specific gear before loosening adjustment screws.

For example, on a 2002 I owned it was:
1. Put trans in 2nd gear.
2. Loosen locking screw on shift rod to take tension out of shift rod.
3. Move shift lever side to side to release any tension.
4. Tighten locking screw...BLah, blah, blah

It seems to me that there would se some similar step-by-step procedure...I just can't seem to find it.

Any guidance here?

Thanks in advance.

Terry, I couldn't find anything like that either. I "upgraded" my Jamar setup (at least in my own mind), by installing a heim joint through the floor that supports the rod right aft of the shift box. I installed better U-joints in the system. I use a cotter pin at the first u-join in the engine compartment so that I can take the front half out if I ever need to. I have a heim joint support at the trans pass through and I cut the last rod and installed a coupler in the back section before it gets the nose cone articulation - this is so I can do further adjustments such as lengthening the rods without fighting the front and back against eachother. It is my contention that the slop in the system can be reduced greatly by supporting the rod system in a couple of places and by replacing the u-joints for tighter ones. The toal cost to do this is mostly time (maybe $25 in parts).

I do exactly as you suggest.

First, make sure your tailcone articulation is tightly clamping the tailcone, that the part attached to the rod coming out of the trans is tight (it has two set screws) and that all joints, pass- throughs and the shiftbox are greased. I disconnect my system front to back at the coupler. If you can't disconnect the system like this, then just loosen the front adjusting nut on the rod just aft of the shift box and do the same. Don't loosen front AND back nuts or you are fighting your self. I use the front nut for rotation adjustments (left/right). and the back locknut for length adjustments (fore/aft) but hey that's me. I put it in a gear (I like reverse because it is at the extreme of the pattern) by manipulating the tailcone articulation. I put the shifter where I want it to be for that gear and then find a way to hold it there (bungie cords, small child, drift wood, dead animal, etc.). Then I snug everything up and check it. If it isn't right, I loosen the nut and try again.

If you are having troubles getting reverse and second then most likely your rods need to be shortened by adjusting out at the rear locknut near the tailcone articulation. If you are having problems with 1st and 3rd, then lengthen it a little. If you can't get reverse, but all others are okay, it could be that your side-to-side adjustment is off.

Keep in mind that inside the shiftbox the action is rather minute. Take a look at how little the rods in back rotate to go from the 1/2 gear plane to the 3/4 gear plane. It doesnt take much slop to ruin this. The sweet spot for dialing this in a rather small and might take a little while to get, but properly done the action is nice and precise.

Does this help at all?

Mike

Terry

Thanks guys...

Mike, this is exactly what I needed to confirm that I wasn't totally off base.

Joe, I would happily pay cost+ for a copy of those pages in the Vintage manual...Just name your price.

It's funny, years ago I drove and worked on a variety of sports cars/coupes and was never shy about diving in and tearing things apart. Then I bought a couple of new/nearly new cars that virtually required a factory computer and technician and somehow lost my "touch"...I'm getting it back, but damn its slow!

Thanks again guys.

Mike,

I've discovered that it is not only a pain in the as$, but also the back, knees, elbows, fingers, and wrists...What a difference 15 years makes!

Terry, then you'll get back into it and realize what a pain in the as$ it is and want back out...ask me how I know!

Regards,
Mike

I hear you Terry! If blood is not spilled I must not be done...

I've only drive 3 Spyders but I'd have to say that Mike's really shifts VERY smoothly and precisely. My Brandwood is good and is a piece of cake to dial in, but it's still $400 (give or take) and then if you can't install it yourself you have to pay someone to do it. If you do need a hand dialing a Brandwood in just ask me though.