Hard to select 1st and 2nd gear

Are these VW gearboxes notorious for being hard to get into 1st and 2nd when stone cold? Mine doesn't like either gear until it's well warm.

Confirm that the two 13mm shifter mounting bolts are tight, may need to adjust the shifter, also check the condition of the shift rod bushing, coupler and coupler set screw is snug against the shift rod. Clutch adjustment might be a possibility too but if you have a good third and forth shifter gate you can rule that out. ~Alan

Cal--I had the exact same problem---getting it into first gear. Problem was I was pushing the gearshift all the way to the right, then forward. The real way to get it into first is to gwet the gearshift maybe an inch to the right of all the way to the left---then it easily goes right into frst gear. I wrestled with this for 6 montha before I fighued it out.

I never had a problem with second.

Sometimes reverse isn't easy if you don't really get the gearshift pushed down before you move it back into reverse.

I'm looking forward to the CSP shifter making all the gear changes simple and easy.

Jeez---no wonder I couldn't get it into first gear!! I meant to say I was pushing it all the way to the LEFT.

Funny someone should mention this topic. It's been there all along, but you just learn to adapt with these cars. My car sometimes tends to reject selecting first, but only when at a stop.
My habit is this: when stopped, I just put in the clutch and select second gear for half a second, then immediately pop it into first, then let out the clutch. It always goes straight into second, and from there straight into first - no sweat.

When running I always double clutch down to first, but I seldom need first gear when running.

I had a similar issue with a Toyota once. It was due to a dragging pilot shaft bearing in the transmission. It also made it difficult to get into reverse. Could it be the same thing?

If you can't push the shifter to the left, hitting the gate, and then forward I would think there could be two possibilities. Either something is worn/loose or the shifter needs adjustment. The coupler can be loose or worn, as well as the shifter. Check the setscrew on the shift rod, and is there a bushing in the tunnel? There is also a small chance your clutch needs adjustment, but it is easy to figure that out. Just turn the engine off and see how easy it goes into gear.

After reading this thread, seems to me many owners are learning to adapt and drive with mal-adjusted shifters rather than correctly adjusting them. When its good, its really good.

P

I may be wrong but I understood that the synchro ring on first tends to wear out quicker than 2nd gears' and the selector can't engage first as the gears are not lined up, by engaging 2nd the shaft adjusts its position which then allows first to engage? do I have it wrong?

Thanks for your replies. The fact that it has gotten worse over the last 1000kms leads me to believe something might have come loose. I'll have a sniff around.

BTW where can I put the lifting points of a hoist on a Vintage Speedster?

I prefer to catch the rear K frame out where the rear trailing arms are bolted on .

On the front, The pan cab corners is my front lift point ...They make plates that bolt on theses cars that fit the lift points, A real plus In fact! you don't scratch things up.

I need to get some of them myself

Thanks, but what are pan cab corners?

And how are pan cab corners related to shifting gears?

They don't. Cal wanted to know where to jack his car up.

Hey !! He did ask the question!!

The forward cab corner are the area just in front the brake petals where the cab is bolted to the pan with 4 bolts 2 on each side ..

They make a 1'inch aluminum plate that uses the bolts. that gives you a nice lift point at the front on both sides'

The rear ones, are made into a replacement trailing arm cap that fits on both sides held by 4 bolts each. Its a nice kit that I have seen in the Cip-1 Book.

As far as your shifter wear problem , I'd bet you need a coupler and sleeve in the shift tube. to make it perfect again..

On these cars the normal repair procedure, may not work which would require lifting the car for a easyer job..

Best ask Alan Merken / Dr. Clock ,,He might know a trick or two..

Thanks for your help. Being an Aussie the terminology used is different. We don't refer to the interior as a cab. A cab is a taxi or the place the driver sits in a truck! :-) I'll check it out and have these plates turned up. I'll look at the gear lever in the morning.

Can anyone provide a link to these things Barry mentions?

I have never seen them.

I always place the lift pads on the rear torsion tube plates and on the front on the edge of the pan where it tapers forward being sure to have a piece of 2x4 block to level things out .

Someday, I need to tell you guys (in person) about the Beetle that fell off the lift at my friend's shop in NJ (not my doing but was frig'n funny) ~Alan

Thanks Alan.

Will he be able to slide the shift tube forward in the tunnel to clear the collar mount and not hit the trunk floor.. or will he have to drill a hole in the trunk to slide it further forward.??

When I built mine all that was finished before the cab went on.

I dug out my Cip book. and couldn't find nothin,, Then dug out my scat book, Nadda , went a found the Empi book.. 3 strikes and I'm out

I have seen these mounting kits, I'm not Krazy YEAT!!........

But I'm willing to bet the NJ car was on it's roof when it came to rest.. Never done that,, AND don't wanna.

Yes, the shift rod can be slid forward in the tunnel (with the shifter removed and disconnected form the rear coupler, use long needle nose pliers to inch it forward) and clear the shift rod bushing mount, will need to put some pressure on the rod by prying it down to get it to clear the battery area on the trunk floor. ~Alan

Thanks again Alan. IZ"m sure Cal will appreciate it> I did want to know this one also..

The nylon collar and prothane sift coupler are my suggestion as good quality parts to get

Im going to check the CB-P site tolook for the mount point kit. If any of you find them first PLEASE let Me know.

Thanks guys. I drove it on the weekend and it seems a lot better with regular use. It is when it hasn't been driven for a month that it is very difficult to select the gears. I've been too busy rebuilding a race car to look under the Speedster yet.

Have you checked the oil level in the tranny. and greased the shift tube lately????