Hauling a JPS Coupe

Use wheel/tire straps on all four wheels. -- Syl

I flat tow my CMC with modified VW tow bar BUT suspect cinch straps to front H beam and rear torsion bar housing would be secure places to strap it down too.

When I trailered mine I used axle straps off the front beam and the same straps through the slotted wheels in back. If you can strap all 4 wheels you will be fine.  My trailer was not set up well to strap the front wheels but worked ok for me.

Bart- I used straps with 'D' rings on the end. With the strap removed from the ratchet, I would pass the strap through the wheel slots then back through the D-ring then into the ratchet for cinching up the slack. I also used some scrap leather bits between the straps & the wheel to minimize chafing the strap.

Click on this pic to enlarge.

Bart:

I've logged well over 18,000 miles trailering my speedster.

The wheel straps/baskets (if you have them) is the best and easiest way to go.  Flop 'em over, cinch them down tight and you're good to go.  Remember to re-tighten after the first five miles or so as things tend to settle out.

If you don't have wheel straps/baskets and will be going with frame straps instead, then put the front straps around the lower torsion bar just to the outside of the torsion bar mount and then go to the opposite side of the trailer so that the front straps are crossed to keep the car centered no matter what.  Cinch them lightly but evenly for now.

Now go to the rear and slip the straps over the transmission horns (rear-most part of the frame) but do not cross them (if you do they'll rub on the bottom of the sump plate - a no-no) - just run them back to the loop on either side of the trailer and bring them up reasonably tight.

Now go back to the front and tighten things up really good - no more clicks on the ratchet.  You can re-check the rear straps for no-more-clicks on the ratchet, but they should be tight already.

Remember to re-tighten everything after 5 miles or so and after that it should be good for the day.

You'll have to play with car placement front-to-back on the trailer til you get it to where it feels good, doesn't porpoise and doesn't sway back and forth because the rear is too heavy,  but that doesn't take long - you'll feel it when it's right. I used to load mine nose on and lined up the center of the hub caps with the rear edge of the fender, but all trailers are different.

Good luck!  gn

BTW:  strapping this way mostly eliminates any up/down movement or bouncing of the car while being towed.  Everything is rock-steady.

Oh, and I always left mine in neutral with the handbrake on, just so there wouldn't be any stress on the transaxle.

Once it's strapped down right, it's not going anywhere (although there was the time I took a GPS "short cut" back to I-81 by going way out the back way from Alan Merklin's house, through all sorts of back roads and switchbacks (they had had some flooding damage back then or something) and ended up on some dirt road for a stretch.....bumpy, jouncy, curvy, all that stuff, and everything hung together).

call John at JPS, he would know best!

I haul cars for a living..... For a single car open trailer, baskets straps are the safest and best choice as they stay in place.

Lasso straps are my 2nd choice. IMHO, passing straps through a steel wheel will cause them to wear over a long haul.

Optional: 2 straps secured to the axle beam and 2 straps on the torsion housing but never to the axle shaft.

If you have a wood deck trailer, I suggest a 2 x 4 block screwed in place with a cordless drill in front and at the rear of 2 wheels as this limits forward rocking movement when braking.

here is a pict of the best trailer t0 have.. the straps go around the front wheels and are cinched in the tighteners. no issue with bounce .. secure chain in the back does nothing. really. 

I used to run a tow truck and flatbed. Cross the straps/chains at one end only. Check it after a few miles like Gordon says. Move it around on the trailer until you get the tongue-weight right and it tracks well.