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Has anyone installed bar style headlight grilles using Sierra Madre/Stoddard grilles with the proper accompanying seals, not including the glass? I’ve spent two useless hours messing with the seals. There’s no indication which way they are supposed to sit. Both ways (method 1 and method 2, see pics) both have fitment issues. Put simply, neither allows the outer ring and the grille to sit flush; hence, precluding attaching the light to the fender. I can trim the gasket in places to help, but this seems like a stupid thing to do before knowing the proper way the gasket should be set on the grille.

Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. IMG_4945IMG_4944

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  • IMG_4945
  • IMG_4944
Last edited by JoelP
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@JoelP posted:

@IndianBob Wom womp. Hit a snag. What did you do to connect to the fender. The hardware that comes with the grilles is too short to make it through the fender to the nut. Did you bend the bottom bracket of the grille?

joel. My bar grills don’t have a gasket. I just clipped them on the beauty ring of the headline and screwed in the bottom tab. Was I supposed l to take the glass off.?

Update: found the driver side fiberglass was laid quite thick below the headlight; hence, the fastening nut is actually buried in the fiberglass a bit. Therefore, I'm going to have to thin it to a manageable thickness to get my metric tree nut in on that side.

I was going to say that this was a "troublesome" update, but I'm finding that these obstacles are making this all kind of fun. That said, going forward, I will be posting pics as I move along for others' benefit.

Thanks to all for your help and insight thus far. I sincerely appreciate it.

Top pic is driver side, bottom pic is passenger side.

Driver SidePassenger Side

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  • Driver Side
  • Passenger Side

That's not my work. That's the "before" picture. I didn't want to get hardware that I wasn't sure would fit without first investigating the condition of the fiberglass. When I saw the thickness, I knew there was way more work to be done than a simple hardware swap. I want the surface to be flat so the t-nut can be inserted easily. Just being overly cautious because I have the luxury to be so.

Last edited by JoelP

Looks like you might need to grind the t-nut flat on one side to fit up against that angle. If it were me, I’d find some fiberglass-compatible adhesive and once everything was trial fit to my satisfaction, I’d slather up the flange prior to putting it all together (taking care not to let any get on the threads) then let it set up with everything tightened down.

I love Wurth PowerBond, but I already have it. In between the adhesive, the applicator, and the tips, it’s a bit of overkill for two T-nuts. Maybe check the Permatex site for a compatible adhesive. I think any “non-hardening” adhesive like Gorilla Snot (3M Weatherstrip Adhesive) would work as well.

Last edited by dlearl476

One of my most treasured tools is a 3/4" ball rasp with a 1/4" shank I use on thick fiberglass for taillight, signal light, headlight screws and rocker Deco strip screws. I use it to make a cup in the back side of the fiberglass, going slow assures you don't go too deep.   

Drill America SD-7 Carbide Burr/Rotary File Ball-End Double Cut for Die Grinder 3/4" Dia. x 11/16" Cut Length with 1/4" Shank and 2-7/16" Overall Length, DUL Series: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Last edited by Alan Merklin
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