At first, I thought I had the only Speedster with this problem. Since Carlisle, I've found that LOTS of people have this problem, and I've also noticed at least a couple of different headlight aiming screw configurations.
On my CMC the headlights have aiming screws, as on a clock face, at 7:30 (Sort-of left and right) and 1:30 (sort-of up and down). I say "sort-of" because the stationary pivot point is at somewhere around 4 o'clock.
First, park in your garage or about 15 feet from a wall and note where your low beam shines on the wall and write it down. You'll need that for later.
OK, so when you try to aim the light UP by un-screwing the 1:30 screw and thereby pushing the top of the light back, you run out of screw and that's all she wrote.
You need to find a longer, stainless steel screw to replace that one with. I couldn't find an oval-head machine screw as was in there, but I COULD find an oval-head sheetmetal screw about 1/2 inch longer than the original. If you have trouble finding them, try a Marine supply store or, if desperate, order online from jamestowndistributors.com but you may end up ordering more than you need (you can use the extra's around the house!) If I remember right, a #6 sheetmetal screw is just slightly larger than what's in there but yours may be different.
Now comes the hard part. The screw that's in there must be held in with a rubber spacer and a captive washer. The washer is aluminum and is simply crimped onto the screw on the back side of the rubber spacer to provide some shock absorption and to keep the screw from pushing out away from the headlight trim ring and aiming down again.
The aluminum washer must be removed (I used a Dremel), then the screw can be removed. Replace it with the new, longer screw, using the same rubber spacer. If the spacer disintegrates, simply replace it with an equal-length piece of vacuum hose. If you can find a suitable size aluminum washer (try a 1/8 inch "Pop Rivet" washer) then slide it onto the screw up tight against the spacer and crimp it on with pliers. If you can't find an aluminum one, then a tight-fitting nylon washer is OK, too. Just hold it in place and screw it in until it hits the spacer.
Now that the screw, spacer and washer are in place, guide the screw tip into the angled aiming guide and slowly screw it in about 1/2 inch or so and you're done.
Replace the headlight(s) and return to that wall you looked at before. Note where the low beam shines on the wall and bring it up 2 - 3 inches higher than you had it before - that should get you in the ball park (the inspection garages measure to the middle of your headlight, then go out 15 - 20 feet and Low beam should be at the same height or 2" lower, depending on your state - just FYI).
Now try a night road test and do a final adjustment on a lonely back road. You may want to re-adjust left-to-right as well.
That's it. BTW: after I did this conversion, my lights were quite a bit too high (like I was completely lighting up the interior of the cars in front of me!!) I've now got them down about the same level as my wife's Honda and everybody's happier.
gn
