Headlight Stone Guard's

"When the wire mesh stone guards are installed on the car it cuts down on the night time visibility by almost 25%. Is this true?"

In my experience, yes.  Maybe not 25%, but 20% or so - It's noticeable right after the change-over, but you get used to it.  I would expect the same light reduction from ANY stone guard over the headlight lens - You're blocking off light, after all.  I also have H4 replacements and I'm running the higher wattage bulbs.  I also run really bright H3 driving lights wired in to high beam - Those puppies light up half the world.

If you're concerned about losing some brilliance (from your lights, not necessarily you), you could opt for even more lumens of light with higher power LED bulbs like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T...dExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I'm planning on going LED once my current bulbs ever burn out.  The Auxito version is the same form factor as an incandescent H4 bulb, so no modifications needed.  They look pretty interesting.

You could go with this type of headlight guard.  Doesn't cut visibility much, but more risk of smaller stones hitting the headlights - although in how many years of driving, that has never happened.

@Gordon Nichols posted:

"When the wire mesh stone guards are installed on the car it cuts down on the night time visibility by almost 25%. Is this true?"

In my experience, yes.  Maybe not 25%, but 20% or so - It's noticeable right after the change-over, but you get used to it.  I would expect the same light reduction from ANY stone guard over the headlight lens - You're blocking off light, after all.  I also have H4 replacements and I'm running the higher wattage bulbs.  I also run really bright H3 driving lights wired in to high beam - Those puppies light up half the world.

If you're concerned about losing some brilliance (from your lights, not necessarily you), you could opt for even more lumens of light with higher power LED bulbs like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T...dExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I'm planning on going LED once my current bulbs ever burn out.  The Auxito version is the same form factor as an incandescent H4 bulb, so no modifications needed.  They look pretty interesting.

Thanks Gordon....good info!

@Bob: IM S6 posted:

You could go with this type of headlight guard.  Doesn't cut visibility much, but more risk of smaller stones hitting the headlights - although in how many years of driving, that has never happened.

Thanks Bob.....👍

I have the grill type, similar to Bob. Have never installed them because there is no rain protection for the light. Water will go right past the mounting and into the light bucket. You will need a drain in the buckets but that still has everything else exposed to the elements. I have attempted to make a Lexan inner shield to attach to the grill but haven't been successful...yet.

I love the way they look; don't like the water.

@Jim Gilbert - Madison, Mississippi posted:

I have the grill type, similar to Bob. Have never installed them because there is no rain protection for the light. Water will go right past the mounting and into the light bucket. You will need a drain in the buckets but that still has everything else exposed to the elements. I have attempted to make a Lexan inner shield to attach to the grill but haven't been successful...yet.

I love the way they look; don't like the water.

Thanks Jim, great info ...will need to check in on that- Larry

Aircooled Accessories versions might fulfill your needs. They fit over the the existing headlight and glass shield so the headlight isn't exposed to weather. They are a British company. Easy to install and mine have never loosened up, very stable.

Google is your friend in terms of finding them. You can get them in stainless steel (my choice) or triple chromed. About $90.00 and $150.00 respectively

I have a pair of the vertical louvre type on my Speedster. I don't drive much at night but I don't notice much decrease in visibility. I also run a pair of 55 watt driving lights to augment the headlights when needed, and the combination provides all the illumination I need.

@Panhandle Bob posted:

Aircooled Accessories versions might fulfill your needs. They fit over the the existing headlight and glass shield so the headlight isn't exposed to weather. They are a British company. Easy to install and mine have never loosened up, very stable.

Google is your friend in terms of finding them. You can get them in stainless steel (my choice) or triple chromed. About $90.00 and $150.00 respectively

I have a pair of the vertical louvre type on my Speedster. I don't drive much at night but I don't notice much decrease in visibility. I also run a pair of 55 watt driving lights to augment the headlights when needed, and the combination provides all the illumination I need.

Thanks for that lead will have to check it out!....Larry

As cool and "Period Correct" as my antique mesh screens look, they are mounted to the headlight trim with knurled knobs at the top, and the headlight bezel screw at the bottom.

  The knurled knob expects to have a stud threaded into it which would then screw into a captive nut or Pemnut behind the chrome light bezel.  Since this was a retrofit, that didn't happen - no way to weld a nut to the backside of the bezel without scorching the bezel - And to get behind the glass, you have to take half of the headlight apart.  No big deal, because if you pull the entire headlight assembly out as a unit, the H4 bulb access is right there on the back.  

If you find a screen or guard that simply clips to the top sides of the bezel, clears the existing glass and then is secured with the screw at the bottom, you've got a big win.

I have had both on my speedster but prefer the grill type I have on now. At Monterey Car week shows I don’t recall seeing any mesh type on the Porsche speedsters or coupes but I did see the grill type.

@Gordon Nichols posted:

As cool and "Period Correct" as my antique mesh screens look, they are mounted to the headlight trim with knurled knobs at the top, and the headlight bezel screw at the bottom.

  The knurled knob expects to have a stud threaded into it which would then screw into a captive nut or Pemnut behind the chrome light bezel.  Since this was a retrofit, that didn't happen - no way to weld a nut to the backside of the bezel without scorching the bezel - And to get behind the glass, you have to take half of the headlight apart.  No big deal, because if you pull the entire headlight assembly out as a unit, the H4 bulb access is right there on the back.  

If you find a screen or guard that simply clips to the top sides of the bezel, clears the existing glass and then is secured with the screw at the bottom, you've got a big win.

Thanks Gordon.....sounds like this configuration is the best of both worlds!

@IndianBob posted:

I have had both on my speedster but prefer the grill type I have on now. At Monterey Car week shows I don’t recall seeing any mesh type on the Porsche speedsters or coupes but I did see the grill type.

Thanks Bob.....nice Pics.....I like the configuration that Gordon presented as it doesn't seem to break any of the headlight seals for water to get into the housing.....Larry

@Jim Gilbert - Madison, Mississippi, I have the grille type and I too am bothered by water and BUGS getting through.

At some point, I am going to try to vacuum form plastic to fit on the backside of the grilles.  I have to wait until I muster up the courage to ask my wife to use her oven or a time when she is gone for a number of hours.

@Gordon Nichols posted:

"When the wire mesh stone guards are installed on the car it cuts down on the night time visibility by almost 25%. Is this true?"

In my experience, yes.  Maybe not 25%, but 20% or so - It's noticeable right after the change-over, but you get used to it.  I would expect the same light reduction from ANY stone guard over the headlight lens - You're blocking off light, after all.  I also have H4 replacements and I'm running the higher wattage bulbs.  I also run really bright H3 driving lights wired in to high beam - Those puppies light up half the world.

If you're concerned about losing some brilliance (from your lights, not necessarily you), you could opt for even more lumens of light with higher power LED bulbs like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T...dExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I'm planning on going LED once my current bulbs ever burn out.  The Auxito version is the same form factor as an incandescent H4 bulb, so no modifications needed.  They look pretty interesting.

Let us know when you do they are I interesting if they keeel the same lense and diffusion pattern

@Michael McKelvey posted:

@Jim Gilbert - Madison, Mississippi, I have the grille type and I too am bothered by water and BUGS getting through.

At some point, I am going to try to vacuum form plastic to fit on the backside of the grilles.  I have to wait until I muster up the courage to ask my wife to use her oven or a time when she is gone for a number of hours.

Build a vacuum table and use heat lamps. No oven necessary.

Anyway, in OUR house it's OUR oven LOL!

Or a cheap Harbor Freight heat gun.

@Gordon Nichols posted:

If you find a screen or guard that simply clips to the top sides of the bezel, clears the existing glass and then is secured with the screw at the bottom, you've got a big win.

Sierra Madre has been selling clip on mesh stone guards for years.

https://sierramadrecollection....-s-50-65-p17648.html

@Troy Sloan posted:

Sierra Madre has been selling clip on mesh stone guards for years.

https://sierramadrecollection....-s-50-65-p17648.html

Those are the ones I have and I couldn't be happier. When I bought my first pair of Hella H4 sealed beam upgrades for my 69 912, they were ~$50. Last time I looked they  were more than double that. Protecting that lens was well worth the cost IMO.