Any suggestions on the purchasing of a dim able headlight switch to replace my cmc original headlight switch that didn’t have a dimmer?
Renfrance
Any suggestions on the purchasing of a dim able headlight switch to replace my cmc original headlight switch that didn’t have a dimmer?
Renfrance
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When I re-wired the dash on my CMC a few years ago I axed the foot dimmer in favor of the stock VW dimmer relay that works with the momentary ground signal coming off my 74 Beetle turn/dimmer stalk switch. Works like a charm. Easy to integrate, wiring diagrams for the turn signal switch and headlight relay are available on The Samba web page.
My error. The dimmer on the headlight switch i am referring to is the one that dims the lights on the gauges.
sorry for the mixup
My car has a late fifties bug/bus signal that has a dimmer. What it doesn’t have is an auto cancel, which doesn’t really bother me as neither did the early British cars I drove nor the motorcycles I’ve ridden most of my life. On the plus side: it’s period correct and Sierra Madre sells the proper ivory tips for the stalks.
Eric, he's talking about a rheostat to control the dash light intensity.
I'd try to find an old 6 volt VW headlight switch from 64 and earlier. They are heavy duty and brass inside. The draw of a 12v system is half that of the old 6v system, that switch should last the rest of your lifetime.
The cheesy Chinese 12v VW headlight switches will burn out in short order, they aren't made well. I went through three before I got the good old-world VW.
DON'T buy this:
https://www2.cip1.com/vwc-311-941-531-b/
BUY THIS:
https://www2.cip1.com/vwc-311-941-531-a/
It looks like this one is $23.99, but they have one for $30 and one for $40(says made in Germany) as well. It says the quality goes up with the price.
Caveat: The 6v switch does not work with the later headlight hi/low headlight dip relay. I do not have a clue how the headlights and/or hi/low dip circuit works.
Sorry , my error . I am referring to a dimmer on the headlight switch to control the gauge lighting.
Danny,
thank you for the information. I will look for a six volt switch.
I can’t remember if late model bugs had that feature, but here’s a generic switch for $16.
https://www.dashswitches.com/p...edium=smart_campaign
With any luck, the shaft diameter is such that you could add an appropriate ivory knob from Sierra or Stoddards.
Empi makes a VW repro switch with the dimmer rheostat for dash lights -
EMPI definitely touch and go quality. I would use relays for low and high beam headlights for sure. There are other brands too. Those aftermarket CHINA switches with the chrome plastic knobs are equally suspect.
The problem you'll face is that everyone knows that most of the Chinese/Asian electrical stuff, including switches, for our cars and VWs is junk. Period... So the prices for quality parts is really up there.
The alternative is Brazilian, if you can find them (and some of those are questionable), new old stock (NOS) German or quality American parts. German versions will quite often be 3X - 5X the cost of the Asian versions because they're now getting very scarce, but the difference is that they'll last for years versus weeks or months for the cheaper versions. The Hot Rod world has been going through this with us, too, with the same problems. Many of those guys are using parts from Ron Francis or Summit Racing.
NOS German switches at Bugcity.com seem to start around $90 bucks and quickly exceed $160 but you should look there, too. I trust their quality before CIP1 and have used them in the past.
@Gordon Nichols posted:NOS German switches at Bugcity.com seem to start around $90 bucks and quickly exceed $160 but you should look there, too. I trust their quality before CIP1 and have used them in the past.
That’s a bargain. My first thought was an early 911/912 switch, as I knew they had the dimming feature. Then I looked it up. $560.
The rectangular aftermarket switches ( even the ones that claim to be 30 Amp) are junk, there is a small flat piece of brass that slides inside of the switch and they quickly wear or burn. I usually use this VW switch, it is for the older VW's but works fine , it is HD and does not need a relay also has the has a stat ..you'll need to clearance a bit of the fiberglass on the back side of the dash, the threaded shaft is a bit short. eBay 58 - 67 VW bug Ghia headlight switch 68 - 70 VW bus van transporter light switch | eBay
@Alan Merklin posted:The rectangular aftermarket switches ( even the ones that claim to be 30 Amp) are junk, there is a small flat piece of brass that slides inside of the switch and they quickly wear or burn. I usually use this VW switch, it is for the older VW's but works fine , it is HD and does not need a relay also has the has a stat ..you'll need to clearance a bit of the fiberglass on the back side of the dash, the threaded shaft is a bit short. eBay 58 - 67 VW bug Ghia headlight switch 68 - 70 VW bus van transporter light switch | eBay
Dang. When I first looked at that I thought “that’s the same as the $560 Porsche switch” so I had to go back and look. It’s not.
Porsche 356 reman starter $419..... Beetle auto stick starter $47 and it fits nuff said :~)
@Alan Merklin posted:Porsche 356 reman starter $419..... Beetle auto stick starter $47 and it fits nuff said :~)
Porsche, Audi, Volvo, Alfa Romeo have some of the most expensive boxes around. I learned to shop the Bosch, Febi, Üro, Magnetti Marelli catalogues a long time ago.
Case in point, I just bought a new voltage regulator and the wiring harness from the alternator to the starter for my 968.
Porsche prices: $160 & $310 respectively.
my cost: $25 & $110. And I got the same Bosch VR and a harness that is at least 5X better than OEM.
Cayman washer pump, $62 from Suncoast Porsche.
Same exact part number, but with VW/Audi fitment, from FCP Euro in Connecticut? $15.
It's the P tax, fellas.
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