Headlight turning off?

Must be bad I can't see a thing ....

Started happening last month, driving along all of a sudden headlight turn off, mile or so later pop back on,- whats going on?
Check the source everything tight
Check the ground tight
Check the relay and light switch working, but I did notice when the highbeam is on the relay run very hot, what do i do add another relay? oh BTW i did install those high quality lamps from VW Unlimited are there drawing to much power causing my relay to shut down?
HELP i can't see and the 5-O is watching

Cabanaboy

that was funny : )

High and low should be on different fuses in a perfect world that is.
For your hot relay problem, heat is resistance. Either the wire is not heavy enough, bad ground or try a relay for each of the high beams.

check the ground - good
wire good
relay - Bosch, got a #?
how about a wiring diagram? where do I find one?
getting closer, i think

Desi - try looking in the 'Search' function with tag words, relay, wiring, schematic, etc. There are quite a few schematics under that search.

Relays have an AMP rating too. I'd want 50 or 60 AMP for modern heasdlights. Fogs probably 40 AMP. It should be stamped into face of relay.

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/headlight-simple.htm

my low and high beams have their own 30A relay.

~WB

Check the headlight dimmer relay, Most likely has a burnt point. If you can find one use a early Bosch

If you are using a circuit breaker rather than a fuse in the headlight circuit, this could cause the problem. Slight current overload and breaker will trip given time, cools off and resets, light come back on. Had the problem with a GT 350, aircraft landing lights for high beams. Could see for miles (until breaker tripped). Try higher amp rated breaker.

Desi:

Check the current draw of those new headlights to see what they're pulling before you do anything else. If all you see are watts, then use a watts to amps conversion on the internet to get the current draw - this is important as a starting point.

I agree that you might have a circuit breaker in the line causing them to cut in and out, and if you do then you'll have to find it and increase it's current rating, or the headlight relay may be inadequate for the current draw of the lights and the relay arm inside is overheating and curling up off of the contact, causing an interruption in current. This happens when you severely overload the relay.

Most driving/fog/headlight relays are of the 30 amp variety. You can special order 45 amp and 50amp, but greater than that will be hard to find unless you go to marine relays ($$$$$). If you find that the headlights are drawing 25-30 amps each (I would be surprised, but ya never know) then run a separate 30 amp relay for each headlight and that should do it.

Good luck and email me if you have any questions.

Gordon

Desi:

Just looked at a couple of on-line converters and they suck.

Use this:

your Watts-per-headlight-bulb/12 volts = amps

So; 85watts/12 volts = 7.08 amps per headlight

If you now have a 15 amp headlight relay, it's just about to become toast. Bump that puppy to a 30 amp and you should be good to go (and run cooler to the touch, too).

gn

Self contained sealed beam head lamps (OEM, circa 1940-on) were normally 55 watts per element, per bulb......High beams consumed 110watts total as did the low......Amperage consumed would be between 8 and 9 amps , depending on Voltage. (12.6 to 1.8)

85 watts times 2 lamps, equals 12.3 to 13.5 ampere load.....Toasty Head light relay.....
30 amp relay will work, but U.S. / German made 40 amp or larger is the better way...Just trigger it with the current High Beam output signal...Most Brazilian and Mexican relays are rated as 20 amp, I believe....But we all know how that goes....I've replaced my relay twice in seven years........ ;-)

Missed it.......12.6 - 13.8 volts

I just had to replace my headlight switch(68-70 Bug), as it self-destructed and fell apart. I bought a new one, which APPEARED to be well-made. Upon installation, the parking lights wouldn't shut off! So I took it apart(it was Friday-no replacement parts 'til Tuesday earliest) and fixed it, shoddy assembly. The contacts were touching internally so I rebent the brass slider contacts and added some vinyl tape between them. Sheeeesh, and all for $30!

They really don't make things as well as they used to. What's quality control and testing?

Oh, and after you check your dimmer relay, check your headlight switch!

AHHMEN Daniel.. And its ashame.. It's not that hard to make a good switch.. That why I keep sayng , GO looking for good factory used parts

you guys Rock thanks for the reply's i"ll get to work

I wish I had forum with this kind of REAL responce for my Mortgage loan modification

Cabanaboy - anyone looking to rent a room in beautiful Huntington Beach Ca. 2.6 mi from the beach??

When I added the 80 watt low and 100 watt high beam H4 bulbs my wiring toasted and popped the fuse. I ended up with a kit from Painless wiring that has 2 relays and is rated for 130 watts. Now I can run the off road only bulbs no problem.

Hey Bill ;) I have been there and done that. Planless is pretty good. I have also had to custom make even heaver duty systems for a few guys. I used the GM anti-lock brake Relay and plug.. Its right stout..A 60 amp relay rated at 250 watts. the relays your using sound like they could be the GM Air conditioning relays 30 amps each continuious duty type.

Both are good But if you ever run 200 amp floods youll need the bigger ones

trouble shoot:

low beam lights stay on : )
hi beam relay get gets hot fast
thanks Wolfgang for the link

i'll add second relay when I get a chance.

Cabanaboy

Desi, don't drive after dark...

If you mean the dimmer relay gets hot ? Check One More thing,

Pull the head lamps and Make sure you don't have a lose wire at the 3 prong plugs.