Headlights?

H4 Xenon conversion bulbs with balasts.  The brightest thing you'll find.  Stick around the 5K range for color IMHO

Is it just a "bolt-in" replacement or do the balasts require some new wiring?  Got any part numbers?

There is wiring involved, hot lead all the way to the battery and some monkey business under the dash

I'll see if I can dig up the brand name.  They are a German made kit that I get from a friend who works with Hella Germany (but they are not Hella)

Laner, I put in Bosch relays andpower to the lights went from 9.5 to 12.8v. Bosch no. 0 332 019 150. Napa.

Most automotive lights are not designed to run @ 12 volts.  At full 12 volts you will suffer early burnout.

Oooh, didn't know that. Offer Lane an idea then. What volts should they run at? 

Sorry, I misspoke.  I was thinking full 14.  You should be ok @ 12.8.  The situation is a little more extreme for tail lights.  More voltage does equal more light output, but also reduced bulb life.  Here's a good article.http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Lane: Check to be sure what you really have. H4's powered by relays should be plenty bright. I run Silverstars in mine and love them!

~WB

A simple replacement would be preferable.  I'll take a look this weekend.

Hi Carey,

 

If you have the brand name let us know. I used to put a cheap Chinese made H4 HID conversion and when it comes on, it is pretty bright, but a lot of times it decides not to come on and actually the beam pattern is not that great compare to the standard light.

 

Thanks

Lane - Ensure you have separately replaceable elements (bulbs) and not the old sealed beams.  Buy OSRAM/Sylvania Ultra Silverstar replacement bulbs for about $35.  If old sealed beams replace with some of the new Hella series units.Old headlight bulbs do loose effectiveness over a few years too.

Thanks, Greg.  I know the current units are sealed beam.

If you currently have sealed beams, even if the halogen version, then a replaceable H4 conversion will improve your light.  The EMPI units are cheap enough to just use the bulb housing and swap the bulb itself to a Sylvania (or equivalent).  Lots of bulb choices once you have the housing for them.  They are a direct swap for the sealed beam...

I think I got my H4 conversions (a lens assy and a separate bulb inserted at the back) from SoCal Imports back in the 1990's for about $60 for the pair.  They throw as much light as my Pickup's Halogens and then some.

 

Here - Go wild:

 

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchRes...adlights&Submit=

 

Don't forget - if you go with Halogen conversions you really should run a headlight relay relatively close to the headlights and some decently sized wires to the relay (10 ga and a fuse) and the lights (12 ga).  Otherwise your headlight switch will have a short life.

Yup. I changed my headlights out for H4 units, and also changed the headlight switch to an older 6v Beetle unit. They are designed to handle higher current than the 12 v(previous thread on the subject of ohms law) plus they are way better made than the current Chinese crap most guys have. I should put in some relays but my battery is in the rear so would have to run a hot lead all the way to the front. My car already has 10 ga. wiring up front to the lights.

So Carey, do I already have relays or would I need to add them to do this.  And no, I have no intention of trying to get it done before Carlisle. 

Unless you opt for higher wattage bulbs - they would be good with current wiring until after Carlisle.  They will be brighter with heavier wiring and relay off the battery though.

Hey Greg, are you coming this year after all?

If you still just have sealed beams, then you do not have additional relays, just wiring through the turn signal unit's internal relay/switch.

and I have the standard ones for about 1/2 of what CIP charges.

Genuine German and Hella versions also available, but 5x the cost.

I used the flat lens Hella Vision Plus.  They seem to be about $40 each with bulbs everywhere except Summit Racing where they are $30 (shipping might make price difference mute - Summit free ship over $99).  Assume they are German made but not stated in ad.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...-002850001/overview/

 

Some ads say DOT approved - others say for OFF ROAD USE ONLY. They have Off road,  ECE (Europe std) and  DOT approved versions depending on model #.  They make a version with an extra bulb in the reflector housing for running lights called City Lights.

 

Hella's Vision Plus conversion headlights adapt European technology to US lighting standards and driving conditions to produce superior headlight units that replace your dumpy, ineffective old 7 in. round or 200mm rectangular headlights. They produce the brightest, most powerful light possible--right at the legal limit--without increasing glare. More importantly, their precise optics produce a much longer, wider, larger, and better illuminated pool of light in front of your vehicle. You'll love the improvement. In addition, they have replaceable bulbs, so you don't have to buy a whole new unit if one burns out.

 

If I upgrade to the H4's, do I need to install relays? Or will I be okay without the relay setup?

 

**edit**

I just read the article Tom posted. Seems like a good option to install the relays.

Great article!

 

I found these bulbs at 4WheelParts (*locally) same price as Summit.

 

Ted

Sounds like relays are recommended to protect the switch from excessive current and to ensure the maximum voltage at the bulb.

Hey Lane,

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, sounds like it's the right thing to do. Nearly doubles the available light. Simple enough to wire in. Just need to order up some quality relays. 

The lights in my speedster are pretty out of adjustment as well. Right now the low beams cast a beam about 10' in front of the bumper. The high beams give me maybe 20'. Just enough light to see what I just hit.

 

I think I found next weekends project! Yay!

 

Ted

H-4 Nokya hyper yellow , looks stock in day and bright yellow at night . Got them from ebay about $30 bucks .