Ok, so I would like to change the plugs in my car (or at least check them) since they're the original ones and I have >36k miles on 'em, but I can't even get the plug wires off. Is there some trick I don't know about? I have a Pertronix Flamethrower II billet distributor and the associated plug wires, and I can only enough force on the plug boot to budge one of them. Even that one I can't get a socket on the plug due to a manifold bolt in the way.
Any ideas?
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Lane..... I have a type 4 motor in mine, but its no big deal with the plugs.... I'm not sure what the problem is with your plug / cable connections.... Mine are the OEM VW phenolic parts. ( no problem )... As to getting the plugs out, I have to use a swivel and different length drive extensions. ( 3/8 drive )... Now I remember.... access to your plugs is at a different angle, but I would think it doable just the same... 
Lane...I can't remember where but I think I recall someone selling a special pair of pliers for just your problem. I've encountered it before and it's a pain in the butt not being able to pull the wires off. I wonder if dielctric grease is ok to use on the reinstall of the wires?
David's right--Lane---I have a pair of spark plug pliers made just for pulling the wires off plugs. I haven't used them but they look like what would be helpful to you.
email me your address and I'll mail and loan 'em to you.----Jack
hsbroker at aol DOT com
Aye, Jack and there they are on Ebay - General...search for spark plug wire boot pliers. Many shapes and sizes , $7 and up. Now what about using the dielectric grease on the spark plug tip...verboten or not ?
You have to pull the wires at the same angle as the plug.
Buy a thin-wall deep swivel socket or use a grinder to reduce the outside diameter of your existing socket.
Pulling on the wires at the right angle won't do it every time, Terry. Some boots are very tough to get a hold of down deep enough.
Never had a problem, David.
Strong hands, perhaps?
Thanks, Jack. I'll look at buying some, but if I can't locate a set I'll take you up on your offer.
Try grabbing the top of the boot with pliers, Lane. Twist a little to break them loose, then they should pull straight off.
...or fabricate a 4" dia. 'port hole' in the wheel well opposite #1&3 plugs. (#2&4 are easier to get at) Now you're not fumbling blind. Not only can you see the plug but you can get entire hand in there too.
Hell, there's enough room to rig up a come-along and yank those pesty bugger out!!!
Look at Sears/Craftsman, Carquest, Advance Auto and Autozone (in that order). Get a pair with neoprene-coated plug boot tips. As Danny said, put them on the plug boot about half way down, twist left and right about 90 degrees around the tip axis to break the boot loose and pul it off. It might help to figure out a way to lever the pliers to pull the boot straight out (you're an engineer - you'll figure it out.)
Dielectric Grease on plug insulators: BIG YES! It keeps the tips electrical connection dry and makes it easier to remove the plug boots in the future. Get "spark plug dielectric grease" at a parts store (there are a variety of dielectric greases depending on their application and heat/melt points). Put a thin coat of grease on the plug insulator and another thin coat around the inside of the boot up about an inch (pinky finger tip) and then put the boot onto the plug, making it "click" into place. That's it.
BTW: all major car manufacturers recommend spark plug dielectric grease, especially on deeper plug boots (especially on coil packs). Otherwise you can never get the buggers off.
Lane: I would also consider, once you get the boots off, squirting a few squirts of a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and Acetone (the best penetrating oil you'll ever use) onto the base of each plug to reach the threads to loosen them. Squirt it on, leave overnight and then try removing the plugs. If they don't loosen, repeat the penetrating oil, leave overnight and try again.
Sears/Craftsman sells a thin-walled spark plug socket, or you can just get a regular, thin-walled, deep socket of the correct size to get the plugs out. I use a varying combination of extensions, universal couplers and sockets to get the damn things out - different combos for each plug, it seems.
It's not the miles that makes plugs lock into their threaded holes, it's how long they've been in there and a chemical reaction between the aluminum head and the steel plug.
