Removed upper ball joint from disc spindle still attached to the upper torsion arm. Removed the nut on the torsion arm (what does that do?)
How do I slip the upper torsion arm off the beam?
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Removed upper ball joint from disc spindle still attached to the upper torsion arm. Removed the nut on the torsion arm (what does that do?)
How do I slip the upper torsion arm off the beam?
How do I slip the upper torsion arm off the beam?
Mike,
I am guessing that you are talking about the nut that is on the setscrew. Once you loosen the nut, use an allen wrench to remove the set screw.
The only thing that hold the upper torsion arm in the tube is the set screw on the arm. Once you remove the nut and setscrew, the arm just slips out. As long as the tube center set screw is tightened, the flat bars will stay in the tube.
The nut on the arm keeps the set screw from backing out and this keeps the arm from slipping out of the tube.
I am guessing that you are talking about the nut that is on the setscrew. Once you loosen the nut, use an allen wrench to remove the set screw.
The only thing that hold the upper torsion arm in the tube is the set screw on the arm. Once you remove the nut and setscrew, the arm just slips out. As long as the tube center set screw is tightened, the flat bars will stay in the tube.
The nut on the arm keeps the set screw from backing out and this keeps the arm from slipping out of the tube.
True but,, if there is tension on either bar, it will be very difficult to simply slip it off. If you have a beam adjuster, take any tension off that device.. You may have to lift the wheel slightly to remove any negative pressure. If it still won't come off, use a rubber mallett.
Thanks Larry and Jim
Figured it out...phew. I had my largest allen head in there thinking it was a grub nut but it was so packed in goop it didn't look like an Allen head so moved on to other ideas...
Finally went back and opened my ratchet set and pulled an 8mm allen head and boom off it came, simple enough.
Brought the arm to the local garage and he pressed the new ball joint in.
Back to the car, put the arm back in the beam (strong as bull), tightened the grub (that lock nut is only there for hope really).
Lifted the torsion arm and sit the new joint in the spindle and tightened down. Result: Car is A LOT tighter but steering is still off 20
Figured it out...phew. I had my largest allen head in there thinking it was a grub nut but it was so packed in goop it didn't look like an Allen head so moved on to other ideas...
Finally went back and opened my ratchet set and pulled an 8mm allen head and boom off it came, simple enough.
Brought the arm to the local garage and he pressed the new ball joint in.
Back to the car, put the arm back in the beam (strong as bull), tightened the grub (that lock nut is only there for hope really).
Lifted the torsion arm and sit the new joint in the spindle and tightened down. Result: Car is A LOT tighter but steering is still off 20
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Make sure your steering box is alligned properly..
Determine how many turns you have lock to lock on the steering wheel. Divide that in half and center the steering box by turning the wheel 1/2 the total distance from lock to lock.. In other words, if you have 4 turns, lock to lock then turn the steering wheel 2 turns. (don't worry at this point if the actual steering wheel is centered, this can be done later by removing the wheel and centering it on the steering shaft) Once the steering box is centered, check the pitman arm and make sure it's pointing straight ahead.
If the pitman arm isn't pointing straight ahead then the tires will turn less in one direction than the other. Also, if the pitman arm isn't pointed straight ahead you have have a problem with the alignment of the tie rods, bent tie rod or, the pitman arm isn't tight enough on the steering box which by the way is a common problem.
If the pitman arm isn't tight enough, it will rotate on the splines from the steering box.
After you sort out the pitman arm problem, (If accessable, loosen the lock nut on top of the steering box. The inner screw may be an allen head or slot screw. Have someone turn the steering wheel, with the wheels off the gound and slowly tighten the center screw. This will remove some of the slop from the steering box. Don't get it so tight that it bind but just "tight enough" Once that's done, hold the center screw in position and tighten the lock nut.
Determine how many turns you have lock to lock on the steering wheel. Divide that in half and center the steering box by turning the wheel 1/2 the total distance from lock to lock.. In other words, if you have 4 turns, lock to lock then turn the steering wheel 2 turns. (don't worry at this point if the actual steering wheel is centered, this can be done later by removing the wheel and centering it on the steering shaft) Once the steering box is centered, check the pitman arm and make sure it's pointing straight ahead.
If the pitman arm isn't pointing straight ahead then the tires will turn less in one direction than the other. Also, if the pitman arm isn't pointed straight ahead you have have a problem with the alignment of the tie rods, bent tie rod or, the pitman arm isn't tight enough on the steering box which by the way is a common problem.
If the pitman arm isn't tight enough, it will rotate on the splines from the steering box.
After you sort out the pitman arm problem, (If accessable, loosen the lock nut on top of the steering box. The inner screw may be an allen head or slot screw. Have someone turn the steering wheel, with the wheels off the gound and slowly tighten the center screw. This will remove some of the slop from the steering box. Don't get it so tight that it bind but just "tight enough" Once that's done, hold the center screw in position and tighten the lock nut.
