I was wondering if I could ask you some questions on adjusting the valves of my Spyder. I
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I was wondering if I could ask you some questions on adjusting the valves of my Spyder. I
Tony,
Oil coming out is normal when the valve covers are off. Makes a mess huh.
I turn my engine by hand. I don't have room for a socket, but hte correct open end wrench shold work. I do not take spark plugs out nor use an electric start switch. I stand in the cockpit and reach over the bulkhead and pull on one side of the alternator belt and push on the other. This might not be the best way, but it works for me.
An oil change at the same time is good to synchronize the events.
In the back I jack my car up at the lower shock mount area of the spindle on the rear tire. In the front I do it on the suspension area as well...not much weight up there. I do not jack mine up on any part of the body or floor.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Oil coming out is normal when the valve covers are off. Makes a mess huh.
I turn my engine by hand. I don't have room for a socket, but hte correct open end wrench shold work. I do not take spark plugs out nor use an electric start switch. I stand in the cockpit and reach over the bulkhead and pull on one side of the alternator belt and push on the other. This might not be the best way, but it works for me.
An oil change at the same time is good to synchronize the events.
In the back I jack my car up at the lower shock mount area of the spindle on the rear tire. In the front I do it on the suspension area as well...not much weight up there. I do not jack mine up on any part of the body or floor.
Hope this helps.
Mike
To locate TDC, remove the distributor cap and line up the rotor with the notch in the distributor body. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 ignition wire. VW's firing order 1-4-3-2 #1 cylinder is located on drivers side (left) of the car furthest from the fire wall. Or, if you have a rear engine, the #1 is located on the Passenger side (right) closest to the fire wall. I use a large adjustable wrench and turn the crank pully nut.
Start by removing the valve covers and THROW AWAY THE GASKET. Scrape any residual gasket material from the cover and head. Apply a very small amount of contact cement to the gasket and to the cover, or use the yellow 3M weatherstripping sealer. Contact cement is cheaper and works as well or better. Wait about 5 minutes and apply the gasket to the cover, cement to cement. Adjust the intake and exhaust valves by loosening the adjusting screw, re-tighten the screw and as you tighten, spin the push rod, it should spin freely, not too loose and not too tight. Once finished, rotate the engine 180 degress counter clockwise. (If you were facing the pully, turn the engine towards the left) 1-4-3-2 firing order backwards is 1-2-3-4 so adjust the #2 cylinder while that valve cover is off... replace the cover and again turn the engine 180 degrees counter clockwise and adjust the #3 cylinder, its the cylinder furthest from the firewall on the right side of the car. rotate another 180 degrees counter clockwise and adjust the #4 cylinder.
Back in the VW days, VW said to adjust the valves every 3,000 miles and change oil every 3,000 miles.
Start by removing the valve covers and THROW AWAY THE GASKET. Scrape any residual gasket material from the cover and head. Apply a very small amount of contact cement to the gasket and to the cover, or use the yellow 3M weatherstripping sealer. Contact cement is cheaper and works as well or better. Wait about 5 minutes and apply the gasket to the cover, cement to cement. Adjust the intake and exhaust valves by loosening the adjusting screw, re-tighten the screw and as you tighten, spin the push rod, it should spin freely, not too loose and not too tight. Once finished, rotate the engine 180 degress counter clockwise. (If you were facing the pully, turn the engine towards the left) 1-4-3-2 firing order backwards is 1-2-3-4 so adjust the #2 cylinder while that valve cover is off... replace the cover and again turn the engine 180 degrees counter clockwise and adjust the #3 cylinder, its the cylinder furthest from the firewall on the right side of the car. rotate another 180 degrees counter clockwise and adjust the #4 cylinder.
Back in the VW days, VW said to adjust the valves every 3,000 miles and change oil every 3,000 miles.
Thanks Mike and Larry. Your info answered all my questions.
Happy Hoilday,
Tony
Happy Hoilday,
Tony
Sorry Tony, I was at my parents for Christmas and couldn't get on.
The other answers are nearly identical to what I do but I don't add contact cement on as my engine doesn't leak at all, luckily.
I've heard you can reuse the gasket but they're cheap so I just slap new ones on. I actually bought a 10 pack, or something like that, from CB.
I also use an open end wrench, 19mm for the nut, and turn it that way but be sure your distributor cap is off as it could want to fire if you're turning it with the cap on.
All else sound good and good luck!
The other answers are nearly identical to what I do but I don't add contact cement on as my engine doesn't leak at all, luckily.
I've heard you can reuse the gasket but they're cheap so I just slap new ones on. I actually bought a 10 pack, or something like that, from CB.
I also use an open end wrench, 19mm for the nut, and turn it that way but be sure your distributor cap is off as it could want to fire if you're turning it with the cap on.
All else sound good and good luck!
Thanks for your reply and information Bert.
Tony
Tony