Help buying a speedster

This may be worth a serious look. Price seems fair to me if there are no surprises.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/2519766464.html

I don't have any buddies that far north...:( all my buddies are near Laguna Seca... That dang sure is worth a look!!

Kieth,
If it's still there in early September, I might be able to take a look at it.
Jay

That seems like a pretty good buy for a VS??? Shouldn't last long ehh. Jay, thanks!

Keith... IMO, don't worry too much about the engine. The biggest factor is, the body, interior, etc. As a matter of fact; if I had it to do over, I would have a Vintage with a STOCK 1600cc or 1776cc VW engine, maybe two smaller carbs.
The Toyota 4x4 truck, in the photo, is much more reliable, but not as fun.
Paul, Green Valley, AZ

Yeah I am not wild about big engines that you want to use as a cruiser. I have a 1970 Cuda with a 572 cube Hemi, 4.10 gears, bla bla bla. It makes an honest 900 HP, 810 rear wheel..... How offer do you think we drive it over the 1970 Dart with a mild small block... Driving is more fun than wrenching to me!

Just got off the phone with the guy locally. He said something about it being a vintage speedster...... He has a big receipt from VS. How can a Gomer new guy like myself tell if this is in fact a VS or a CMC... Keith <------- confused a little...

Pictures, Pictures, Pictures....

Remember, it's always more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow. With the right engine, you can redlline in every gear and the Kia next to you may not even notice!

I'll take more pics guys... Stand by

Keith, you'll notice, the Vintage bodies have the round access ports below the doors just in front of the rear wheels. I don't don't know of any other makers who have these access ports. I'm sure someone here would know if there are other makers. Naturally, the real Speedsters had them.
Paul McGuffin

Check this out, even NASCAR fans have class.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBTz_rU4K6Q&feature=related

Thanks Paul

Nice axe, Paul!

Keith... food for though: Some times it's the little things, make sure the driver's seat is adjustable, make sure the windshield wipers work, all the lights work, brake light included, gauges and lights. Have the owner show you how to put the top up. I'm sure there are a few other things I forgot.
Paul

Seeing that I'm not super versed like some of you on these cars.I am mechanically inclined. Everything works, I had him run the lights, wipes, etc. The high beams did not work. The top is brand new and goes up nice as does the new tonneau. New tires, new disc, all gauges work, etc. Per this groups advice, I'm not paying close to his $14,000 .
The interior is brand new sliding, VS...

Thanks guys for not letting me spend more than it's worth!

Am I am member of the club if I bought a measly little CMC? that's what I did today. I bought a car locally that I've been trying to buy for 3 months. I paid $12,000 for it.
1776-3:88 trans
Brand new top,tonneau , windows
Brand new VS interior
New clutch, disc brakes
Everything works and runs
The car doesn't squeak or rattle on a real rough test road I like to use as a test ground!
I paid 12K for it.

Paint is 7/10
Interior 9/10

Hope I didn't get burned! We'll see.

At 12K you most likely did fine. There are a few smoking deals locally for me that I may have to go look at. I have been leaning towards a new ordered car after I settle in to a new job, but there are some cheap used deals popping up.

Then again, I might do a scuff and buff and put it on eBay , I really want a VS

Nice job, KW! You done good.

Congrats !

You're fine at $12,000. You didn't steal it and he got a fair price, for a CMC, in this economy. Now, we need some good photos. If you can't find a railroad water tank for the photo, just a RR crossing or box car will do. If you don't have a blond daughter for the photo, your wife will be just fine.
Paul

Not sure why you apologize for your "measly little CMC". There's nothing wrong with CMC's. Frankly, if there had never been a company called Classic Motor Carriages, I sincerely doubt that this website would even exist. I do not believe that this particular replica vehicle would ever have gained the popularity that it has. CMC did more to advertise the Speedster than anyone...including Porsche. While CMC had some problems in their latter years that eventually led to their demise through bankruptcy, they were merely ahead of their time. Look at the list of companies just since '08 who have done much much worse to their customers. In fact, look no further than Wall Street and "our" financial institutions...and of course, Congress. No, be proud of your car...make it yours. I love my '80 turbo T/A more than I could ever care for any 2012 Chevy...GM didn't even care enough to continue the Pontiac brand. Yes, I have a CMC, and in my heart, I know that I did not do nearly as well in building my car as IM did with the car I sold Alan Merklin 2 weeks ago, but I love my CMC, and it's faults are generally the result of my failings, certainly not CMC's. If CMC had not been around in the '80's when I bought my "40 hour weekend project", I can guarantee that I would never have owned a Speedster like my hero, James Dean, did. I sincerely hope you eventually change to appreciate your "measly little CMC".

Everyone here! ...You know, John is really on the money. We, myself included, are way too hard on CMC's. John is spot on, when he says, it's not the CMC, it's who built it. I have to agree with that. Just think...what if Kert, at Vintage, were to build a CMC kit, tomorrow...well,in the next week, give or take 40 hours. I'll bet it would look very nice and I know he would have solve the "Butt Sag" problems in advance. Again, John is right, just enjoy it and forget Ebay. If a CMC is good enough for Jay Lenno, it's good enough for me.
Paul

John is spot on! Just think if there was no CMC I would have had thousands upon hours of hours of spare time but would have not realized the boyhood dream of building cars.

Mine has just a tiny bit of butt sag. Not bad at all. I wonder if it can be jacked up and fixed or do you just "stop the sag from worsening"?

Kevin, do a search here it is an easy fix by drilling out the rivets and replacing them with bolts.

Consider buying a CMC as buying a piece of sculpture by getting a piece of raw marble and sculpting it yourself. The raw material is the same, but the overall quality of the art is dependent on the skill of the sculptor. When you buy a VS/JPS/TR/Beck/IM, you're paying for the skill of an in-house artist. With a CMC, either you are the artist (a great thing in many cases) or you are getting a work of art that from someone who may or may not have a great skill set. I've ridden in several CMCs that are as good an anything produced by the other folks. Look at anything Alan Merklin has done, Gordon Nichols' Pearl, Barry Crone's red Speedster, and many others, and you'll see a car that provides as much reliable fun as any of them.

You may have a little work to do on your new car, but feel confident that it will be something you can be proud of. Welcome to the Madness.

I've been reading a lot and asking dumb questions! The first thing I'm going to do is a safety inspection. Brakes, bolts, cotter pins, etc. The thing has something funky about the brake pedal. The brake sticks toward the driver too much and has a funkly angle toward the driver. Example, at full brake pressure, the brake is still slightly angled back towards me. Not sure what that's about. It does have good brake pressure etc. Then fix the cobbled throttle linkage! I love to tinker on stuff, this should be fun.

We can help. If I remember right, you're in Warrenton?
Sheeeit. That's close enough for a road trip to help you on a weekend sometime.
Nothing wrong with personalizing that CMC. That's what mine started as.

The brake pedal should start just rearward of vertical, for starters. That's pretty easy adjustment that has a lot to do with the plunger behind the pedal. There should also be a little piece of metal growing out of the floor pan on the backside of the pedal cluster, intended to keep the pedals from going too far forward ... Check for that guy and make sure he's there. If not, you have a touch of fabrication to do -- nothing major.
Good idea doing a safety inspection. Can you get the car into the air somehow? Look for worn, torn or abraided metal, check for loose or wobbly connections in the suspension and check that the wheels don't shake freely.
Let us know what you find?

It's solid and tight driving. I'm out of town currently, so I'll need to get back to do my 6,000 point inspection on it. Its definately too far back towards the driver, it's awkward! I'm going to take a bunch of pics, post them here, and get bombarded with "to do's". ;). Thanks guys!

PS- Nashville TN

Like Cory said the push rod is probably out of adjustment and the floor pedal stop (13mm bolt)needs to be moved too.

The stop on the floor keeps the pedals from going too far back, not too far forward. That is if back is toward the back of the car and forward is toward the front of the car.

Michael, that's exactly what I meant. :)

Cory I knew what you meant... Thanks guys, can't wait to drive it and start in on fixing little things. First things first, those silly bumper guards are coming off!

I may be interested in the bumper guards. ~Alan

Those silly bumper guards look fine IMO, and may save your hood if someone backs into you.

Steve, that's what reverse is for!

Steve, that's what reverse is for!

...reverse AND a loud-ass air horn instead of that meek 'beep-beep'!

...I'm just saying...