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Man! If it's now the CMC butt/door sag, it something else. Makes we want to go out a buy a new Vintage or Beck!.
One of my wires, at the fusebox, gets really hot and melts the wire. I think it's the main ignition power.If I pull it, the car stops running. The wire goes or comes off a fuse with nothing attached on the low side, of the fuse. Also, my headlight switch and wire gets hot. It's a real "rats nest" under the dash. Now that I have the door gap problem fixed, maybe I should just have the entire car re-wired. Any ideas would be of great value. This new group has been a life saver over the years. I may as well become a donating member. Is that hard to do"
Paul, Green Valley, Arizona .....viva 1070

1957 CMC(Speedster)

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Man! If it's now the CMC butt/door sag, it something else. Makes we want to go out a buy a new Vintage or Beck!.
One of my wires, at the fusebox, gets really hot and melts the wire. I think it's the main ignition power.If I pull it, the car stops running. The wire goes or comes off a fuse with nothing attached on the low side, of the fuse. Also, my headlight switch and wire gets hot. It's a real "rats nest" under the dash. Now that I have the door gap problem fixed, maybe I should just have the entire car re-wired. Any ideas would be of great value. This new group has been a life saver over the years. I may as well become a donating member. Is that hard to do"
Paul, Green Valley, Arizona .....viva 1070

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One of my wires, at the fusebox, gets really hot and melts the wire. I think it's the main ignition power.
(Could be that the wire is not heavy enough gauge to carry the load.)

Also, my headlight switch and wire gets hot.
( Are you running a headlight relay, if there's a head light switch only, it may not be one that can carry the load without a relay.)

It's a real "rats nest" under the dash.
(This can be straighten out with time and patience or opt out for a new VS harness) ~Alan

Alan...no headlight relay. The wire is a little lose, at the fusebox. It's the heaviest wire under dash, maybe number 12 wire. I'll try to tighten it a little. I am going to take the car into Chiro in Tucson this week. They are a big time dune buggy, off road and VW place down here. I might see what they want to re-wire the entire car. But, after looking at the wiring digram, in my"How To Keep YOur Volkswagen Alive" book, it's not much more involved than an HO model railroad wiring project.
Paul

The 12 gauge wire on the fuse block is the hot from the starter post shared by the battery cable. it splits into 2 12g leads at that side of the fuse block on mine .one goes to the light switch the other to the key switch. the other side of the block on that fuse Hot all the time Accesseries.

A cheap light switch or weak ground on the head lights will also cause it Check the wiring to see if they are any other hot spots. Look near the hottest spot for bad switches or bad connections.

Your on the right track, Keep going

If it's only doing with the key on , Id say key switch.

If only when the light switch is on....Light switch then expand you search from there if all thas checks out.
It was the main 12 ga. hot lead at the fuse box. The terminal was lose and the wire had burned all the way inside. I splice the wire and fixed the terminal. Now my headlights are bright and no alternator light burning dim. The wire at the headlight switch is a little warn, with the lights on. Those marine grade switches look nice.
Paul
http://www.iboats.com/Marine-Push-Pull-Switches/dm/cart_id.386110497--session_id.165440207--view_id.216625
Thats good Paul, I also liked the marine switches,nice for acesseries , But VW Bosch and Hella are the best for the Key and light switches they have higher grade copper and bass internals and are rated for 50 amps. Heavy duty stuff. Raid a old bug or call a Benz supplier.

The germans a very picky about thier older Benz. They still make those parts at home, Not in China
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