I'm gonna say CMC or Street Beasts also. That's the same grille I have, and I'm pretty sure the underside of the decklid will have the same really rough-textured glass, too. Additionally, the Clevis pin for the decklid in the back will be attached with a three- to four-inch small gauge chain on the driver's side support with a smallish aluminum bracket the size of a paper clip for it to hang on screwed right into the firewall. The pin will be about two inches longer than it has to be.
Your seat belts are an exact match with the ones I took out last year. I wouldn't put much stock in that as an indicator, though.
Other easy stuff I'd check right off would be whether the fuel tank is in backward to allow for the hood to close, if there's an overflow out the top, passenger's side of the neck and if the engine compartment has ribbed rubber matting screwed in. Those were all the case on my car.
The first snap back from the doors on each side may be the DOT turnbuckle type. The levers which firm up the top in the "up" position will be dog-eared band-iron and prone to rust, and they'll bolt into the B pillar (behind the doors) with holes filled by quarter-twenty bolts.
Half of the fasteners on the car - anything not mechanical - may be American standard instead of metric sizes.
The license plate light may have a total of five holes molded into the body for the wiring harness. I see it's oriented to shine upward. That was also the case with mine.
The underside of the hood may have a seamed channel for the hood release running down the driver's side of the trunk liner fiberglass, but you'll have to look up underneath with a flashlight to see. The tubing there will be copper, and the seam might or might not be closed at both ends.
Badging will probably be attached with a silicone rubber compound instead of self-scribing nuts.
If you can see up there, look just past your transmissions nose cone for box-steel tubing. If there's a gap between where the right and left frame members meet in the middle, filled in by a piece of box-steel welded to the rear of where they would meet, your car resembles mine.
Check the fiberglass where your exhaust tips come out for a total of four crescent cutouts about half an inch into the body. There will probably be a pair on each side of center, smooth as if they were intended to have a four-tipped exhaust coming out under the bodywork.
If you really want to go nuts, trace the VIN and see if it comes up as a Florida registration at some point in the past.
Also, I attached the only photo I have where the car's stance is really obvious. That's with an IRS rear end and the front axle already rotated at least an inch. I didn't do that; CMC did. The measurement from the back of the door sill to the ground was 13 inches. I took the measurement from the body in front of the rear tire.
Best I can do. Hope it helps!
I like your car, by the way. Should have mentioned that right up front. Congrats!
