Help identify "Clunk" sound when I let off the gas.

Possibly transaxle nosecone mount.  Do you have any clutch chatter when starting off?

No, the clutch feels really good.

The first thing to do is nut and bolt everything in the drivetrain and rear suspension. Check the torque on:

Lug nuts, axle nuts, engine to transaxle bolts/nuts, transaxle mounts including nosecone (check mount for rips & tears. If it's urethane I'll guarantee it's ripped), starter motor bolts, and all suspension bolts including spring plates, caliper mounts, and Kafer bar if you have one. Check the bolts/nuts on the alternator/generator stand and the fan itself while you're there.

You'll probably find something loose in all of that and it may be the thing that's clunking. Let us know how it goes. We can go deeper if necessary, but let's start with the low hanging fruit as it's more likely anyway.

For the office pool I'll put $20 on nosecone, with a side bet of $10 on axle nuts.

@JMM (Michael) posted:

For the office pool I'll put $20 on nosecone, with a side bet of $10 on axle nuts.

I’d take you up on that nose cone mount, but only because it is a Spyder, and it doesn’t use a traditional style VW mount like a Speedster. That said, I think your procedure to diagnose the problem is spot on.

DOH!  Yeah, since its a Spyder the nosecone become much less likely.

Ok, I'll do my best checking everything is tight.  Cheers!

@MichalM Do you have a cable shifter(from PBS or Vintage)? If so, it's probably NOT the nose cone mount. The Vintage(or PBS) mount is quite robust and I can't imagine it failing. Also, this shifter uses a custom billet replacement nose cone and 1/4" steel mount. Not a likely failure point, it's pretty stout.

If you've got a Brandwood cable shifter or a rod shifter(Jamar) then you do indeed have a nose cone and the mount and/or nose cone itself could be failed.

The most likely failure are the two trans mounts under the trans bellhousing. If they're made of red urethane I could almost guarantee that's it. Urethane should not be used where shear or fracture can happen.

I will add this: On my first Vintage Spyder, the fan housing would hit the underside of the clamshell under extreme acceleration. I remedied this by getting a custom transmission strap from Greg(at Vintage). The steel strap prevented the mounts from stretching upward and allowing the shroud to move upwards. Simply installing the strap along with new, German heavy duty mounts solved the problem completely.

FYI, in a Spyder, the torque of acceleration makes the trans mounts stretch instead of compress like in a standard Bug or Speedster.

@DannyP Hey Danny,  I have the PBS cable shifter on mine.

As for the fan housing from your first vintage, I'm sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by that and not the most mechanically inclined.  Are you speaking about the radiator fans?

Besides making sure everything thing is screwed down tight, I'll check the two trans mounts under the trans bellhousing.   Are these the ones you are taking about?

Fan housing as in engine cooling: air cooled motor. I have a type1 VW with 911 shroud.

I see you have a Subaru engine.

The PBS/Vintage rear mount as I said should be stout but you should give it a check anyway.

I have zero experience with a Subaru in a Spyder. I have no knowledge about the engine mount crossbar, so I really can't help you. Sorry.

Ok, thank you!